Short bar techniques.

Ha most of use were Adonisis in our younger days .Unfortunataly the ravishes of time has caught up with some of us .We were mighty men at one time .-----and for the rest of our lives we will refect upon that place in the sun once upon a time .;)
 
i'm not that young, but hey...........just getting started.............just have to do "work arounds". use the brain more, i guess.......
 
I've known a lot of old timber fallers who worked into their 70's. Not all because they wanted to, but because for some, they had to. Though a few I knew could have retired earlier they just couldn't break the habit of a good days work in the woods.
 
Like, MD's guns, hey?

Danny doesn't project the sense of unlimited physical power that your pics of MD do, Jer. He's undoubtedly a strong young man, but not in that league, I think.

But no slouch, none the less. I'm sure he's a fair bit stronger than I ever was, in my prime.
 
Yeah... If I cld ever get a job cutting with my skills:lol: I seriously doubt I'd ever quit before my heart did.

If I cld cut timber, I'd give up climbing in a heartbeat. :D
 
Got to play with this today, in a safe manner! I had a six ft high spar, 34" at the ground and I put the 16" bar on the 5100 to try my hand at it. No targets, no hurry and a good back up plan, so all was well.
You guys that do this all the time are incredible sawyers, my hat's off to you!
I cut the root flair, made a face, gutted the hinge then set to make my hinge with bore cuts. Damn thing wouldn't move! I cleaned and cut, nothing! Hammered the wedges, nothing!
Fine, I'm in it this deep, no harm no foul, what did I do wrong? I set the saw back in and pivot to cut through the middle of the face cut. I'm an inch and half high on both sides! Sure felt like I hit it, but I wasn't even close!
Finally had to take the 046 with the 32" bar and lay it over, but it sure was an education, and one I'm glad I learned now rather than working a large Oak stand!
 
You got to saw some lean into it! A fair standing stub of a tree will not fall on it's own unless you saw some lean into it. No fighting, no hassle, lickety split, it's on the ground.
 
I've tried to tell a few of the tree guys around here about undermining center of gravity on stubs. They just don't seem to understand the concept. We won't even get started on the subject of wedges....
 
It had lean to it, but when you blow all the basics it just doesn't matter!
 
As a suggestion on a stump cut on a spar you're better off to have the back cut come out even with the bottom of the wedge .You don't need a high hinge because you really aren't directing anything to amount to much .

Put about say a third way through the stub with the wedge then back cut and leave about a maybe 1/2"-3/4" of hinge then pop a wedge and over it goes .If you leave a high hinge you have a hell of a time breaking it over .At least that method works for me on a fat spar .
 
I've met a few smoke jumpers in my travels........ with their stories of taking down burning stubs etc.
They don't even make barely a backcut in most cases, just a mean old facecut:lol:
 
I love it when you are cutting the burning spars fanning the flames with the saw :lol: No screwing around, get it on the ground!
Have you done any wild fires recently Stephan? I logged a fresh burnt stand of jackpine years ago, only did it once and never again, burnt limb stubs are real tough on skidder forestry tires too.
 
No. I just have experience from an occasional snag or tree catching fire from a burn we might be on.... The hollow ones are most fun:|:

I do a lot of work on the already burnt or recently burnt when they are in my area. Keeps you on your toes. Hard on gear though.
 
Back
Top