Sharpening

  • Thread starter Thread starter brendonv
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Mr. Sir said:
That's pretty slick. Where can we get one of those gadgets?
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Ha! That's the big question......I was looking on line (before I went out to the job site and took it out of the truck) and couldn't find one anywhere. Maybe someone over on Arbtalk could find one for you and ship it from the UK.
 
Hi guys, new to the forum. Agree with all the advice and would just add little and often is best (yes i am talking about sharpening!) never let your chain go dull as it takes so long to get them back compared to a few light strokes to put the profile back. If you have to take your cutters back a long way due to damage use your file handle to knock of the chrome burr to stop it peeling off. I usually sharpening free hand in the wood but never be to proud to use a vice in a workshop to get them back accurately and if you do use the file guides available make sure to touch them on your top plate and on the raker so you gullet the tooth properly.
Looked in for a while now but taking the plunge and posted so hope its not telling you all something you all ready knew.

D
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #30
Thanks for all the advice. I am ashamed to say the file I have been "trying" to use is from last year! No wonder why these things won't get sharp.

I am going to go buy a box of files for each my 200t and 460 chain. Can anyone confirm the following...I need a 4.0mm file for the 200t, and 5.5mm file for the 460. I should probably pick up depth guages too, anyone know the correct sizes for each?
 
5/32" for the 200T (3/8" lo pro)
and 7/32" for the 460 (3/8").
Pick up a cheap wooden handle or two also. I prefer the small wooden handles over the big obnoxious plastic handles, but maybe try one of each and see what you're most comfortable with.
 
Actually, no. I just eyeball my depth settings the same way as Justin and others. When the chain is filed about 1/3 of the way back and quits biting as well, I'll take 2-3 swipes off each raker. Then again about 2/3 of the way back I'll do it again.

I also prefer a bench vise to hold the saw when filing (you guys saw the setup I made for the hitch on my old bucket truck). I don't have a vice on the new truck yet so I try to do all my filing at the shop. Rakers only get filed in the shop on the bench vise.

In the field I'll just use a stick or small chunk of 2x4 to stick under the bar so I can keep the saw steady.
 
You can buy one at your Stihl dealer for not much...works on all chain sizes.

I got one in a tool kit that came with one of my bigger saws, I'm pretty sure...maybe you did too and don't recognize what it is?
 
Skwerl said:
I also prefer a bench vise to hold the saw when filing (you guys saw the setup I made for the hitch on my old bucket truck). I don't have a vice on the new truck yet so I try to do all my filing at the shop. Rakers only get filed in the shop on the bench vise.

In the field I'll just use a stick or small chunk of 2x4 to stick under the bar so I can keep the saw steady.
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If you have a decent sized round of wood, or a stump, just cut a kerf a couple inches deep it that and set the bar and chain in it...keeps it right steady. A bit awkward to lift and advance the chain around to get to the teeth, but a solid platform to sharpen on.
 
This may have been posted to death, but I use a Granberg file and joint on all my chains. It has spoiled me on hand sharpening. My angles are always true, and I end up with razor sharp chains. I set my file depth a little lower than most, so there is more hook than say a new stihl chain. Therefore I end up sharpening a little more on full chisel chains. Semi chisel for the dirty stuff I use maybe less hook than most, so they dont cut quite as fast, but keep the edge longer.
 
Brian, First you tell us that filing is like masturbating and then you tell us that you prefer small wooden file handles. What are we supposed to think ? Why did you poison our minds with this excessively personal imformation?:P
 
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  • #41
Tonight I mounted a vise on my chipper...it's at chest height and I find it helpful seeing it at my face than bending over. I found a box of files I had for my 200 chain and I'll be damned new files are the shit. I don't know why or how I have been using old files.
 
brendonv said:
.I need a 4.0mm file for the 200t, and 5.5mm file for the 460. I should probably pick up depth guages too, anyone know the correct sizes for each?
Click to expand...
Well I suppose that's the sizes if you are metricly inclined . 5/32" and 7/32" respectively .

Now that deal of how much mileage you get out of a file,it won't be nearly as much if you filing hard as rock Stihl branded chain .That damned stuff is about as hard as tool steel .
 
brendonv said:
I have to admit...I am horrible at sharpening chainsaw chains. Is there any tool to help me get it right, then phase away from the tool eventually? I have read somewhere about "pferd" or something like that.

I have never really gave any interest in the saw, as long as it's been sharp, clean air filter, and gassed up, that's all I have every cared. I recently got a new chain and realized I can never get it to cut as good from out of the box. That new chain ripped ass too, I'd like to get them like that.

Tips, tricks, advice.

Thanks!

B
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Hi brendonv, I sharpen all my companys chains on a bench chain grinder. Cant beat it for consistancy. It takes a lot of skill to operate one though. I think lots of people try one and it doesnt work first time for them so they give up. Also iv tried the Pferd tool you mention and found it files the depth gauge/rakers down too far. I wrecked a chain finding out.The one i used was for 200t chain.
 
squisher said:
I never used gauges/guides hell I don't even use a handle on the file. For rakers(which are very important to keep your saw biting well) I just lay the flat file across the tooth I'm checking and the tooth in front of it(on the same side of the chain) and visually check the 'gap' looking for abouts a dime's thickness of light between the file and raker.

Evenness all around is key to cutting straight and smooth.
Click to expand...

This will work if you don't want to buy some gauge to lose or have to use, adjust your depth for what you're typically cutting. More of a 'gap' is of course a more agressive bite.

And like Brian said when the saw isn't 'biting' 2 or 3 strokes with a flat file should be all you need. Just remember same as everything with a chain to keep it even.
 
Al Smith said:
I have no idea how many .I buy them two dozen at a time and they just end up in a drawer or coffee can when they get dull,for whatever dumb reason I save them .:?
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Your like me Al, just can't throw them files away for whatever reason. It is not like they are going to quit making them and won't be able to find them. Never know though hard times may return and you might have to reuse those files because you can't afford new ones :lol::lol:

I have found them old files to be useful around the shop for filing inside of holes in mild steel.

Not to contradict previously posted info. The correct file for Sthil chain if you have the regular 3/8th's pitch for the bigger saws is 13/64th's dia. It is an oddball size. 7/32th's will work. That file size is for the .404 pitch chain.


Average depth gauge setting for just about all Sthil chain is .025 thou or 0.65mm. The Sthil mini narrow kerf is 0.46 mm without looking at my metric conversion chart I would guess this to be about 0.20 thou.

Glad to hear your getting your own customized set-up for chain sharpening Brendon. One of these days if I ever feel brave I am going to take some pics and show my own set-up for in the shop bar maintenance and chain sharpening with some different tools I have aquired. It is a little on the overkill side but has made improvements in my chain sharpening.
 
Ax-Man said:
Not to contradict previously posted info. The correct file for Sthil chain if you have the regular 3/8th's pitch for the bigger saws is 13/64th's dia. It is an oddball size. 7/32th's will work. That file size is for the .404 pitch chain.
Click to expand...
Well that fact doesn't surprise me in the least bit.The right way,the wrong way and the Stihl way . Great stuff but typicaly different by design . Oh damned good chain chain also but real pricey .Then again it's tough stuff ,most likely the best if you want to pay the price .

I do have a couple of loops of it and will say it really stands up .One is a 24" loop of .404 on a Mac super 44A that even after 4 years of occasional use I've never laid the file to it .Then again it's nearly 50 years old and doesn't see much action . On the other hand I'm 60 years old and see a lot of action .:|:
 
I carry extra chains for all the saws, and change out when they start getting dull. I sharpen all my chains in the shop on the chain grinder. I use borazon wheels and sharpen a bucket full at a time.
 
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