Saw video thread

A little fun with a tree that fell in my yard.

2511t, then 355t, then 352, then 2188 all modified to some extent.

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I didn’t see much of the saws as all was looking at was the bare legs!! I’ll wait to see what Burnham makes of your thumb position towards the end&#55357;&#56900;&#55358;&#56596;&#55358;&#56611;
 
I never noticed my thumb position like that :lol: I laugh because I always read about others commenting on thumb position, and I think "how do I hold it?... With my thumb wrapped, duh" But apparently not. Maybe I did that to help push harder with better control, than to counter kickback which I wasn't anticipating here, just trying to make fast cuts in a small log. I do a lot of my handle pushing with my thumbs. Every second of running the 2188 I was thinking about my legs, I almost didn't run it for that reason.
 
A little fun with a tree that fell in my yard.

2511t, then 355t, then 352, then 2188 all modified to some extent.

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All these saws are running nice, very zippy. That said you look afraid of stepping into the wood. Like you are expecting something to happen. Get some chaps please.
 
I'm a very careful environment conscious person, anyway I was trying to avoid getting covered with sap and saw dust in my shoes, I just wanted to get the saw test log cleared out.
 
Nutball: I would never, ever, ever tell a man from another climate what kind of clothing he should wear to operate a power saw.

I just wanted to say that I was really impressed by your cutting, and the way your saws ran.
 
I know, I know,... I got one fer ya franke... My production manager just game me an INSANE decked and ported 044 from West Coast Saw.... Ohhhh, mannn... vids to come.;)
 
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  • #159
Cool beans ... the 044, 046 , 064 and 066 were arguably the best saws STIHL made ... port/timing and flow were maximized for powa without the draconian limits imposed by the epa on the newest models (although these can be made to rip also ) Are you refering to Myrtle Creek (Rich D.) saw shop ? I know he builds/ports some sweet runners!
 
If you only look at power, yes.
But compared to what we have now, they vibrated a lot and you constantly had to clean the air filter.
 
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  • #161
I have a ported 064 with a velocity stack and oiled k/n filter ... AV is inferior to say a 462c - but not really THAT bad - I’ve run old McCullochs and thought my choppers were gonna vibrate out of my jaw ! The stack and oiled filter on that saw can cut a LOT of wood before servicing becomes necessary ... I know that my stock 660 with stock filter clogged up and needed servicing every few tanks so I agree with you ... when I switched to the max-flow oiled - foam system on that saw the run time before cleaning increased 10fold over the stock setup or better ... The 064 is the dark horse of them all imho ... 85cc but can accept up to 99cc iirc ...
 
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  • #164
Looks like a 660 clone-saw ... Just curious here ... why .325 instead of 3/8 ? The 3/8 is a bigger beefier chassis that can take the hp and torque of a larger Saw (660) without breaking and more importantly stretching ... I’ve found that the 3/8 picco (ps63) works great on 50cc < 5hp saws and 3/8 RS for 60cc and up ... guys have tried the 3/8 picco on larger saws and have had em stretch and in some cases snap ! Here’s a 500i running ps63 and man does it cut ! ....https://youtu.be/rDy3weCJ6vk .... for s and giggles yes ! As a daily driver no sir ... that tiny chassis WILL stretch for sure and won’t stay on the Saw with a 7 pin let alone a 9 pin
 
I prefer skip chain all around unless I'm doing a lot of bore cutting, back chaining and cutting with the tip, but peeps say full comp cuts faster, and .325 has more teeth than 3/8, and it commonly comes in .063 to handle the power, and I got sent the wrong rim: an Archer 9t .325 instead of an 8t like I ordered for an echo 490, so I figured I'd get a cheap .325 b/c for racing. The bar sucks though since the sprocket nose doesn't support the chain, so there's friction from the soft nose rails. You can see the paint burned off that new bar tip in the video.

And it is a kit saw. The chain was almost too aggressive for the big dry ash log, but not enough for the pine.
 
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  • #167
I use full house chain whether 3/8 or 3/8 picco ; 12”-36” bar(s) ... never really messed with skip much for the wood that I cut around here ... no doubt you get more cutters with the .325 than the 3/8 or .375 ... STIHL .325 .063 chain is offered on up to the 291 - the 3/8 .050 takes over from there from the 362c up to the 880 with a .404 .063 option for the 661 and 880 ... your mileage may vary lol
 
Full house chain is 1 tooth per DL as far as I know.


It's strong, but not a hot rod yet.
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I can't remember the problem, it could be a chip clearing issue, or in some strange way simulates bumper links (less aggressive). Maybe there isn't enough room for each tooth to continuously cut fresh wood before the one just in front clears the way of uncut wood and drops its chip in the way.

I think a full house carbide chain of the higher end rescue type would be good for cutting trees full of metal, like a carbide cold cutting non abrasive metal chop saw.
 
Guessing so.

Skip and full skip are faster cutting with big bars because of chip clearing, if I understand correctly. No room to pack more in, somehow it prevents slicing more.

Squisher alluded to slo-mo video of chainsaws cutting, but I haven't been able to find any videos. Anyone else?
 
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