Risky business

Pictures are not the best way to plan a removal :)...but I think I'd be comfortable felling it with the one line. I'm thinking the tree is healthy with solid green wood, and Ponderosa hinges well. Maybe use a thickish hinge, gutted.
 
Second that.
Make sure to go at least 3 feet up with your face cut, in order to hit straight fibers.
The lower part of that tree will screw your hinge wood up bad.
 
Be aware of that large hanger.


A proper hinge should do all the steering. A pull rope will be easier and move the tree faster than wedging, if you're good with a throwline (basal-tied over a very stout branch, near the collar).

How will the butt flop around when dropped into that low road bed? The sidewalk and corner of the house are in close proximity to the butt. Perhaps a bit higher up facecut will allow it to travel downhill a bit more before detaching, getting a bit more room. Might want a tight retainer rope for the butt, holding it away from the house. If you're not square to the butt, you will lose some tension when the tree travels off the stump.


A picture with the camera against the tree, facing the layout would be informative.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
@SeanKroll I think the hanger you are referring to is a limb a climber was removing when the pic was taken. Said climber declined to fell the tree.

Bounce is an issue that occurred to me as well. I need to go see the lay. I was thinking a retainer line to the truck above the cut, and as high a cut as comfortable to leave stump between the tree and house. I even thought about using an open humboldt (or a more closed humboldt and snipe?) and the winch up in the tree to pull the tree over, then pulling with the truck on the retainer line as the tree goes, with the idea of sailing the tree away from the house as the hinge breaks and it falls.
 
Ok. He will have altered the weight distribution with what he took off, keep that in mind.
 
That looks like a very, very straightforward dismantle.

The dump looks pretty straightforward, too, aside from the butt kicking onto the sidewalk or house, depending on the angle its felled away from them.
 
With a high cut, could you tether it to the base? Kind of like negative rigging a section, but only a couple feet of rope.
 
Second that.
Make sure to go at least 3 feet up with your face cut, in order to hit straight fibers.
The lower part of that tree will screw your hinge wood up bad.
I agree with Stig re placement of the hinge...I don't usually think to mention this because I next to never cut particularly low ;).
 
Probably have pulled worse , seems doable and straightforward plus you have some big MA ... wonder whatup with the "Climber" that didn't just slay it ? Why was his rope bag on the roof ?
 
You'll cave in the railroad tie retaining wall if the impact doesn't get forced on the uphill side of the retaining wall. A log to land the butt upon might be needed.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
Got logs.

My preferred lay would be towards that wooden triangle rustic yard art thing. 45° out of the corner, least chance of hitting anything house related.

Just about bet some oak is gonna get smashed.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #20
Piece it out, maybe speed line

Yeah…one of these days. For now, wannabe logger cheating with a pull line. I don’t climb yet and don’t care to drag the lift up there (in the mountains). Also doubt it would reach.
When the opportunity arises, I do want to use the winch in the truck to zip line stuff onto my trailer bed.
 
Back
Top