Retractable lanyard setup

I agree fully with DMc on this subject from the safety POV but when he mentioned that he cut his flip line in his first climbing year it made me reconsider.
Sure, be safe but there are plenty of accident statistics in Europe relating to tree worker accidents. If one focuses on the cases involving professionals (I don't care for cowboys & "travellers') it is very clear that a high percentage of deaths occur within two years of leaving college or starting an apprenticeship.

I've done a bit of study on this and have the experience of employing various beginners over the years. A very clear trend is when after about a year of climbing experience, this persons ego/confidence swells and they start performing very dangerously in the tree.
Survive this and a year or so later the experience is solidifying and the practitioner starts to become a professional.
Every good tree surgeon I have ever met reckons it takes four years of full time work to become competent, professional and safe at a commercial level.

Anyway, back to the subject: It's a matter of personal opinion to tie in twice or thrice. If I see one of my guys taking an extra safety step he'll get a tick in the box not a slap on the wrist (so long as the job finishes in time:lol:).
 
Dave makes a good point on a chain hitting your lanyard even if it is not spinning. I have a perfect example. This pic is from last may:

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This happened when I grabbed my 3120 with a 50" bar and Square ground chisel, chain by the bar and was sliding it in my saw shop and caught my hand on the floor of my shop and that chain got me. Got my middle finger and pinky finger. 11 stitches and it cut the nerve in my pinky finger so I don't have feeling in it anymore. Granted this is a heavy saw with .404 chain...I would not trust any of my chains grazing my tight lanyard or climbline, which is why I use a steel core flipline...my .02 cents. :)
 
Actually I cheat with a square chain grinder, but still learned how to chisel file before that :)
 
Yeah, sure seems I have more little cuts on my fingers these days using more square chisel fresh off the Silvey. I put scaabords on everything, but always seem to nick myself right through gloves at times....
 
For a big stem I can see the value of a steel core. The beeline is a bit thin and doesnt necessarily run straight around the trunk.

On a smaller stem where you can reach around it and make sure your lanyard is where you want it it seems less of an issue.
 
I couldn't quite adopt the sidewinder, too bulky, but I have adopted the beeline that comes with it. (If anyone wants to try a cordless sidewinder Paul cox original PM me.)I haven't done any scientific tests but I believe the beeline would be harder to cut with a handsaw than arb rope. ( not steel core). cutting beeline with scissors is a PIA I know that much.
 
Same here. I'm currently using the 10mm beeline for a lanyard and really starting to like it a lot. I'm using the Cinch right now with it, which is ok, but might go back to a VT. What hitch cord are you guys finding that goes well on the 10mm beeline?

I'm using beeline as an hitch cord (schwabisch prusik + pulley)...on my 12mm lanyard :)

To be honest I just changed that with nomex . It keeps on snowing and raining here and beeline it's a real PITA when is wet.

Never thought of using beeline as a lanyard. Problem is I don't like skinny ropes. I like to feel them in my hands.
I tried to climb on 11mm ropes and I hated it. I guess I would have the same problem with a 10 mm lanyard.
 
I'd like to try the RSW, cool idea.
Same time I' don't think it will last that much on my saddle...
I spend quite a few days this time of the year deadwooding and crown-restorating Firs and Cedars.
Getting to and "inside" the top of these trees (most of them were badly topped in the past and it's quite a mess sometimes up there)
means you have to get through very tight branches.

I think I'd have to fight even more with the RSW on the side or on the back of my saddle...

Just a consideration coming from the work I'm carrying out at the moment.
 
... I' don't think it will last that much on my saddle...Getting to and "inside" the top of these trees ... you have to get through very tight branches...

Koala, you might be surprised. I have been doing some real tight evergreens myself and the Sidewinder has not gotten in the way at all. Some of these were so tight I could barely squeeze past the branches. The Sidewinder actually seems to get caught less than a normal daisy-chained lanyard. I now have mine strapped tight on the center/back of my TM harness and I like how that is working.

Dave
 
Mine is really tight to my harness, as if it is one with the back pad. There isnt any play in the connection which is important because its round profile naturally brushes past obstructions. When it was lossely connect it would tip back and get caught on things but like Dave's experience mine has been that snags are pretty minimal.

The farther towards center in your back you have it mounted it can create an issue where you can snag the line between the housing and the lanyard adjuster but as soon as you shake it loose it just winds back up.
 
I trust you.
Mine was just a consideration based on the pics I saw here.
We know you can't judge a book by its cover, gotta read it before. :)

Marcello
 
This could be the DIY'r in me but couldn't you run a smaller cable down the middle of say Tenex or a different hollow braid? It's available in much smaller diameters and is climbing rated. Downside is it's easy to snag up. Essentially make a cable core lanyard that is flexible and small enough to work in the retractor.
 
Look what showed up today ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360270393.568660.jpg

No cord, but I'm trying out 10mm ocean polyester. Need some help installing the cord, which way do I wrap it around the drum? And is there a certain organization to it, like from the bottom up, etc, to fit the most? Thanks!
 
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Ranger, looking at it from the side you have pictured wrap the rope counter clockwise. Whilst you have it open ditch the belt clip as it sucks , I am now using large zip ties .
 
No more bicycle strap, Paul? I liked that because it's easy off when I have to use a wire-core. And, easy on when I don't. I do indeed like the unit! :thumbup:
 
Mine is really tight to my harness, as if it is one with the back pad...
The farther towards center in your back you have it mounted it can create an issue where you can snag the line between the housing and the lanyard adjuster...

It is well worth finding a spot on your harness that you can firmly mount the Sidewinder, or as Nick says, make it one with the back pad. If it wobbles about, you will find it annoying, plus it can then snag and get things caught in between it and the harness.

I am loving mine mounted in the center back location on my TM. There have been no problems with snagging the lanyard on other parts of the harness and it is easy to reach and out of the way. I can even use my cable core without having to remove it.

Dave
 
My manual Sidewinder has space for loads of other stuff. :D

Of course, I sometimes forget that I've put stuff in there and then start wondering why my saddle feels so heavy...

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By the way, I'm not knocking the Sidewinder with this, just being silly...
 
I tied a stopper knot in mine yesterday to stop it from retracting...I was immediately getting hung up, stepping through it, and cursing to high hell. I have even really started to like using the 10mm beeline. Interested to hear how Adrian does with the 10mm OP.
 
Ok, finally have it rigged up to try out this week. Strapped it to the center of my back pad on my tm via cable ties, nice and snug.

My only thing is I like to use the lower dees on my tm for my lanyard, so it'll be interesting to see how it works compared to the side dees on the harness.

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