Removal advice
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Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #27
That’s funny that the lowering by rope was brought up!! I engineered in my head a system for that situation but figured it would be too hard to calculate the strength required of the gear (mostly rope) I only go up to 1/2” Arborplex for rigging. It is something I would like to try sometime. Just a robust pulley anchored behind the tree going off to a 4wd truck. A lot of the weight is on the stump. At the end, it’s a heavier load obviously. Still probably only about half of the total weight though.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
5/8ths guy line 180 from the head lean tensioned and locked off. A 1/2 line 90* to the head lean for pulling. Face 90* out towards the pull line or a tad more. Thick hinge. Pull over. It will land more uniform spreading the weight. And less banana bounce or flip flop.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
IF you were climbing instead of felling, rathere than rigging a bunch of small pieces, a 4'x4' piece of plywood with brush on top will catch chunks. If you're going to piece it up on the ground into rounds, you might just drop single rounds, letting the groundie load them on/ in a rolling material mover as you land them keeps you both producing. Once you get some small log chunks, you can get rid of the brush to the chipper or whatever, and you have small logs to put on top of the plywood. Drop small pieces, quickly. The logs that are on the board will get beat up. You won't hear them complain.
A rope handle on the plywood will allow someone to pull it from a good distance, giving a good, flat rope-angle and not putting effort into lifting, just sliding.
Rigging a heavy leaner like that sounds like something I'd rather avoid with an armored pad.
Chunks will bounce off wood. You might need a ratchet strap to hold logs on the plywood. Rebuilding every time it would be silly.
Way faster than rigging, and way more of both people working more of the time.
Anyone can make it land on the drain field. If they have any concerns, piecing it out shows greater skill.
A leaner like that will likely be less than graceful to climb, so be forewarned.
A rope handle on the plywood will allow someone to pull it from a good distance, giving a good, flat rope-angle and not putting effort into lifting, just sliding.
Rigging a heavy leaner like that sounds like something I'd rather avoid with an armored pad.
Chunks will bounce off wood. You might need a ratchet strap to hold logs on the plywood. Rebuilding every time it would be silly.
Way faster than rigging, and way more of both people working more of the time.
Anyone can make it land on the drain field. If they have any concerns, piecing it out shows greater skill.
A leaner like that will likely be less than graceful to climb, so be forewarned.
A vert speedline can really cut down on your rigging too, since you can predictably hit a spot over and over and contain massive weights from going everywhere. Since a heavy leaner would have a bunch of side movement from top to bottom you couldn't go big, but it is a fast and safe way to go. No one can mess up not letting it run and get you hurt, and if you set it up right you can free up the ground guy to pull over the chunk and just let it go. Far safer for everyone involved. The best part as more stuff comes down you can bolster and improve the landing pad. I do this rather than negative blocking as much as possible, often staging roped down limbs as a base so it's ready to go when i am.
As far as the drain field goes, it's your insurance. It's location/who you know dependant on prices and danger, I've installed them at buddy's houses before, digging in the runs with my backhoe. If you damage the tank, you are in deep shit
The runs that diffuse the water aren't too bad, they are simply plastic c shaped pieces that form a void for flow. So they can scope them, and could find out if and how badly they get damaged. Certain ones can be rated to be driven on, but backing heavy trucks over them is a no no, so that gives you an idea of how hard you can be.
Also, why would you do this in the spring, when everything is soft? It doesn't look like a hazard, so why not do it this next winter when everything is ice and you could run bulldozers over it and not hurt anything? Or wait at least till summer when it dries up and becomes stable dirt.
As far as the drain field goes, it's your insurance. It's location/who you know dependant on prices and danger, I've installed them at buddy's houses before, digging in the runs with my backhoe. If you damage the tank, you are in deep shit
The runs that diffuse the water aren't too bad, they are simply plastic c shaped pieces that form a void for flow. So they can scope them, and could find out if and how badly they get damaged. Certain ones can be rated to be driven on, but backing heavy trucks over them is a no no, so that gives you an idea of how hard you can be. Also, why would you do this in the spring, when everything is soft? It doesn't look like a hazard, so why not do it this next winter when everything is ice and you could run bulldozers over it and not hurt anything? Or wait at least till summer when it dries up and becomes stable dirt.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
That fishing pole might bounce ya hard on a vert speed line coming back to the base
murphy4trees
TreeHouser
in looking those pics over again and realizing this is black cherry I'll make a bold statement:
This is the perfect tree for an intentional barber chair.
It's a faster easier cut than anything suggested so far.
If you have a binder strap, double or triple wrap it about 4' high, start the back cut 6" above that, and just keep cutting until it starts to split...
optionally you could set a throw line, and cut until you hear the first pop or two and then use the pull line to trip the barber chair.
The angle that the tips come down from height given the spread of that crown will make for quite a soft landing
This is the perfect tree for an intentional barber chair.
It's a faster easier cut than anything suggested so far.
If you have a binder strap, double or triple wrap it about 4' high, start the back cut 6" above that, and just keep cutting until it starts to split...
optionally you could set a throw line, and cut until you hear the first pop or two and then use the pull line to trip the barber chair.
The angle that the tips come down from height given the spread of that crown will make for quite a soft landing
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flushcut
TreeHouser
Best advice ever!
Altissimus
TreeHouser
Treeadict , Murphy is an idiot ... stay safe
Only someone who has never worked in the woods and experienced a real barberchair would be dumb enough to suggest experimenting with them.
The unpredictability of them makes that complete idiocy.
Easier and less messy to just shoot yourself.
This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.
Yup, lets all go and play around with that
The unpredictability of them makes that complete idiocy.
Easier and less messy to just shoot yourself.
This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.
Yup, lets all go and play around with that
Where, exactly is the drain field? If it's beneath the bow in the trunk, you're good anyway. What type of drain field is it? If it's 4"-6" perf/sock line in gravel, that's one thing. If it's of the Infiltrator type, (chambers), that's another thing entirely.
Treeaddict
Treehouser
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- #37
It’s the 4” perf surrounded in stone approximately 3-5’ deep. You guys are giving me great advice. I always love hearing the various ways this work can be done
That zone will contact first…slowing/cushioning the secondary impact…which will further pad the final impact. If there were big, horizontal limbs, you’d have something to worry about, but with those brushy limbs…I don’t think so.
murphy4trees
TreeHouser
Heavy front leaner was it? there are other cuts.. glad you made it out alive to tell the tale...
this is black cherry, not ash. and NO WAY I believe that the split,. lifted 24' and fell in 2 seconds.
It's black cherry not ash.. that's a dumbass response... even 2 seconds is enough escape time if you're ready for it and leave at the sound of the first pop. But your 2 seconds is total BS... objects only fall 16 feet in one second... so breaking, lifting 20 feet, rolling off the pivot point and changing direction, then falling 20 feet is going to take longer than 2 seconds. And there is NO WAY black cherry is going to split as fast as ash. I'd have that tree on the ground safely in about 30 seconds. You've got big talk and small mind.Only someone who has never worked in the woods and experienced a real barberchair would be dumb enough to suggest experimenting with them.
The unpredictability of them makes that complete idiocy.
Easier and less messy to just shoot yourself.
This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.
Yup, lets all go and play around with that
At least get your physics right.
An object falls 19,6 meters in 2 seconds.
I may have a small mind, but at least I don't go on the internet and suggest people use dangerous methods.
Oh, sorry, I meant " out of the box" methods.
An object falls 19,6 meters in 2 seconds.
I may have a small mind, but at least I don't go on the internet and suggest people use dangerous methods.
Oh, sorry, I meant " out of the box" methods.
