Removal advice

[SeanKroll]

IF you were climbing instead of felling, rathere than rigging a bunch of small pieces, a 4'x4' piece of plywood with brush on top will catch chunks. If you're going to piece it up on the ground into rounds, you might just drop single rounds, letting the groundie load them on/ in a rolling material mover as you land them keeps you both producing. Once you get some small log chunks, you can get rid of the brush to the chipper or whatever, and you have small logs to put on top of the plywood. Drop small pieces, quickly. The logs that are on the board will get beat up. You won't hear them complain.

A rope handle on the plywood will allow someone to pull it from a good distance, giving a good, flat rope-angle and not putting effort into lifting, just sliding.

Rigging a heavy leaner like that sounds like something I'd rather avoid with an armored pad.

Chunks will bounce off wood. You might need a ratchet strap to hold logs on the plywood. Rebuilding every time it would be silly.

Way faster than rigging, and way more of both people working more of the time.




Anyone can make it land on the drain field. If they have any concerns, piecing it out shows greater skill.



A leaner like that will likely be less than graceful to climb, so be forewarned.

 

[Tree09]

A vert speedline can really cut down on your rigging too, since you can predictably hit a spot over and over and contain massive weights from going everywhere. Since a heavy leaner would have a bunch of side movement from top to bottom you couldn't go big, but it is a fast and safe way to go. No one can mess up not letting it run and get you hurt, and if you set it up right you can free up the ground guy to pull over the chunk and just let it go. Far safer for everyone involved. The best part as more stuff comes down you can bolster and improve the landing pad. I do this rather than negative blocking as much as possible, often staging roped down limbs as a base so it's ready to go when i am.

As far as the drain field goes, it's your insurance. It's location/who you know dependant on prices and danger, I've installed them at buddy's houses before, digging in the runs with my backhoe. If you damage the tank, you are in deep shit The runs that diffuse the water aren't too bad, they are simply plastic c shaped pieces that form a void for flow. So they can scope them, and could find out if and how badly they get damaged. Certain ones can be rated to be driven on, but backing heavy trucks over them is a no no, so that gives you an idea of how hard you can be.

Also, why would you do this in the spring, when everything is soft? It doesn't look like a hazard, so why not do it this next winter when everything is ice and you could run bulldozers over it and not hurt anything? Or wait at least till summer when it dries up and becomes stable dirt.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

That fishing pole might bounce ya hard on a vert speed line coming back to the base

 

[murphy4trees]

in looking those pics over again and realizing this is black cherry I'll make a bold statement:
This is the perfect tree for an intentional barber chair.
It's a faster easier cut than anything suggested so far.
If you have a binder strap, double or triple wrap it about 4' high, start the back cut 6" above that, and just keep cutting until it starts to split...
optionally you could set a throw line, and cut until you hear the first pop or two and then use the pull line to trip the barber chair.

The angle that the tips come down from height given the spread of that crown will make for quite a soft landing

 

[flushcut]

Best advice ever!

 

[Altissimus]

Treeadict , Murphy is an idiot ... stay safe

 

[stig]

Only someone who has never worked in the woods and experienced a real barberchair would be dumb enough to suggest experimenting with them.
The unpredictability of them makes that complete idiocy.
Easier and less messy to just shoot yourself.

This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.

Yup, lets all go and play around with that

 

[Treeaddict]

It’s the 4” perf surrounded in stone approximately 3-5’ deep. You guys are giving me great advice. I always love hearing the various ways this work can be done

 

[murphy4trees]

This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.

Heavy front leaner was it? there are other cuts.. glad you made it out alive to tell the tale...

this is black cherry, not ash. and NO WAY I believe that the split,. lifted 24' and fell in 2 seconds.

Only someone who has never worked in the woods and experienced a real barberchair would be dumb enough to suggest experimenting with them.
The unpredictability of them makes that complete idiocy.
Easier and less messy to just shoot yourself.

This is the last ash I ever cut without gutting the hinge.
The log landed 24 feet behind the stump and the front part of it went as far to the right side of the stump, all that happened in maybe 2 seconds.

Yup, lets all go and play around with that

It's black cherry not ash.. that's a dumbass response... even 2 seconds is enough escape time if you're ready for it and leave at the sound of the first pop. But your 2 seconds is total BS... objects only fall 16 feet in one second... so breaking, lifting 20 feet, rolling off the pivot point and changing direction, then falling 20 feet is going to take longer than 2 seconds. And there is NO WAY black cherry is going to split as fast as ash. I'd have that tree on the ground safely in about 30 seconds. You've got big talk and small mind.

 

[stig]

At least get your physics right.
An object falls 19,6 meters in 2 seconds.

I may have a small mind, but at least I don't go on the internet and suggest people use dangerous methods.

Oh, sorry, I meant " out of the box" methods.

 

[davidwyby]

So....is it down?

 

[Treeaddict]

It’s down! 6 hrs between me and groundie friend. Leafy debris and small stuff to dump and trunk to local firewood guy. Did combinations of the suggestions. Crash pad, chain above felling cut to prevent barber chairing, and bore cutting. Went very well. First time bore cutting but I did practice on a vertical round a few times. It did roll a little leaving the stump so only about 25% of the crash pad was utilized. I appreciate all the suggestions and time everyone spent helping to make this a safe success. Cheers!

 

[davidwyby]

Looks good to me.

I had another theory: wrap it tight so as not to barber chair, and then back cut from the back until it goes, leaving a lot of hinge to slow the fall vs. bore and trigger which I would assume would drop fast.

 

[Treeaddict]

David, I was curious about that technique myself. I wrapped it up with the chain but was questioning the forces in play.

 

[Bermy]

Done! Collect the cheque!
Great feeling when it's all on the ground isn't it.

 

[Treeaddict]

You know it Fi!

 

[flushcut]

Great feeling when it's all on the ground isn't it.

Are you mad! That’s when clean up starts. It’s a good feeling when you are driving away all done with money in hand.

 

[Treeaddict]

True that. It’s definitely a stages game. Each stage brings a relief that it was completed successfully without injury or damage and in a reasonable amount of time. As much of a relief it is when climbing is done and/or tree is on the ground, it’s also bittersweet. That particular unique challenge and “puzzle” is complete and will never be engaged in again. Maybe with lots of work on the books and trees to trim or remove every day the mentality is different. Every tree I do gets pondered on for a long time before I work on it. They are each something I look forward to as a child eagerly awaiting summer vacation.

 

[davidwyby]

I was starting a new thread and this one popped up as similar. Looking through the pics I noticed the chain and wanted to make a safety note about chain coming from my industrial and off road recovery background. Chain (steel in general) strength can vary a LOT. Unrated hardware store chain hurts a lot of people. Grade 7/70 transport chain is much, much stronger and 80 (lifting rated) stronger still. The nice thing about 80 is you that it is so strong you can use smaller lighter chain for same or more strength. Size is almost irrelevant. We sell giant 3/4” chain for drag chain, and the tiny grade 80 chain is stronger. 70 is what I usually use. Have not been able to break 5/16” abusing it with my big diesel pickup on 40” tires yanking buried suvs out of washes. Rated chain has the rating stamped every few links…if it’s rated you can look up it’s rating online. If it’s not, it’s rated grade 2, or less - don’t use it for anything but dragging logs.

 

[Burnham]

This post by @davidwyby might well be pertinent to the "Securement" thread.

Load securement for on road transport

What do you guys typically do to secure equipment on a trailer? chains, straps, grab vs open hook, ratchet vs snappy binder, shock absorbing straps, etc currently on my boxer I use 3 chains and 2 binders, 1 chain in the back makes a loop with each end from machine to trailer D rings, loose...

www.masterblasterhome.com

 

[WoodCutr]

This post by @davidwyby might well be pertinent to the "Securement" thread.

Load securement for on road transport

What do you guys typically do to secure equipment on a trailer? chains, straps, grab vs open hook, ratchet vs snappy binder, shock absorbing straps, etc currently on my boxer I use 3 chains and 2 binders, 1 chain in the back makes a loop with each end from machine to trailer D rings, loose...

www.masterblasterhome.com

quite possible

In regard to his comment, I havent snapped a 5/16" G7 dragging a 22000 pound bucket truck stuck in mud...
I trust that chain plenty