question for stig short bar technique for open face or conventional notch

Could you gut the center-post through the facecut? Did you?

Hard to see how you reached some of that. Was it with that bar?
 
I'm on my phone so it's hard to see. Second look, looked like a center post, third looked like a gutted center post.
Looked close to Max because of the small facecut angle (who wants to work against steep angle to the grain on a monster cut).

A snipe cut only in the middle will allow extra powerhead space and gutting-
depth without affecting the lay, IF needed, I reckon.

You've cut a few of those monsters before, it seems.
 
I have a vid but looks like its gotta go on youtube first
 
SeanKroll said:
A snipe cut only in the middle will allow extra powerhead space and gutting-
depth without affecting the lay, IF needed, I reckon.
Click to expand...

You know your stuff but just picking nits here, a snipe wouldn't help because the saw body is up toward the top of the face/the side cover is laying on the floor of the face, and a snipe is on the bottom so wouldn't yield extra room, would it? Only cutting the face steeper/higher would help and as you so well said above, cutting through the steep angle grain on a big cut is a pita.

Or you could cut a birds mouth/open face to create lots of room but that's a lot of work too.

Wanted to avoid busting out the 42" bar but had to do it to buck the log in half. Was hoping it might be hollow/light enough to avoid the need to buck.

Cutting rock-hard hardwood with a 42" new or virtually new bar/chain is not particularly fun imo. Anything less than perfect sharpness and straight-cutting causes very slow cutting and dishing. I start with the chain good to go but if it encounters much of anything other than clean, straight grained wood, it acts up.
 
I mean, IF one needed, in a similar situation, one could cut a small snipe in the middle of the lower face, with lower angle to the grain.

I don't really work with people with greater skill sets here much (@ state parks, my supervisor taught me about big trees), so I have to pick up from what others share. Apologies if it was seen as critical.

It's a situation some people might find themselves in with a center post that is strong wood. Once the back-cut is cut-up, going in from the back cut by opening a space, like a jack seat. after a center post is feasible.

You've been around the block plenty. Other people are reading, with lesser experience.

Just discussing.

I bet it went just fine, and they hired you for a beast for good reason.



I'm not a fan of 'oversized' bars, if shorter ones will do, with some techniques. Especially up a tree.
 
Did not think you were critical in the least, just discussing the finer points of it all
 
Pushing the envelope, there.
Nice.

I hope you cut that huge burl off and gave it to a woodturner.
 
Nah I didn't but good call. I used to give a lot of burls to a woodturner but he disappeared
 
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