Problems cutting hard maple...

[Cuttinstuff]

So am I hearing that perhaps using the next larger diameter file might help? It seems like that would cause more of a "(" shape - instead of "c" shape and it would also make it less "pointy"

To answer the question of what chain I was running on the 345... it was narrow kerf VPX on a 16 inch bar. The rakers were never filed but the cutters had been touched up several times - but still basically as it came out of the box.

 

[Magnus]

If files position is a bit low in cutter you don't get correct shape of cutters top and side plate.
A larger diameter file will not work long as you will file other stuff not meant to be filed.
Just place it a bit higher in cutter.

 

[Magnus]

I don't touch cutters until its needed, usually around half way thru chain.

 

[Altissimus]

...Raker's

 

[Grendel]

Your top plate on your teeth are too pointy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a great one! Old logger I talked to up here used to lessen the top plate angle when he was cutting hardwood all day.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Yeah, I do mine 25-30* depending. 30 seems pretty all purpose.

 

[Cuttinstuff]

Well, I guess I'll give that a try and see how it works... The trouble is, I probably wouldn't be able to find out if I managed to get it right until I get back to the area where I ran into the problem.

The elm and maple around my place don't fight back like that.

Thanks for all the advice guys,

Paul

 

[Magnus]

For fast smooth cutting rakers are set too low to begin with IMO.
It's best after 4-5 filings.

Most common reason rakers are low is to compensate for sharpness. Second is that the filer lack knowledge of how to set them and why.
Filing became passion for me, others see it as a big pain.

There is no limit how good it can get. Only the ones You set.

 

[cory]

I've had the same problem as the OP with new, unfiled chains in sugar maple, especially with smaller saws like 0201s. The wood is rock hard and the factory settings aren't suitable for it. It takes a few filings to get the teeth lower and the rakers (effectively) higher.

 

[Al Smith]

Are you folks sure you are cutting sugar maple and not iron wood ? Either I must be a world class filer or Ohio sugar maple is soft which I find hard to believe .Just for info the largest supplier of bowling alley maple in the world is about 20 miles south of here .So based on that this maple must be pretty good stuff if they can make alley maple from it .

 

[Jed]

Wood is crazy stuff. I don't doubt a single word in this thread.

 

[Cuttinstuff]

Are you folks sure you are cutting sugar maple and not iron wood ? Either I must be a world class filer or Ohio sugar maple is soft which I find hard to believe .Just for info the largest supplier of bowling alley maple in the world is about 20 miles south of here .So based on that this maple must be pretty good stuff if they can make alley maple from it .

Well I grew up in maple syrup county and in fact lived almost right next to one of the largest single producers in the country. They tapped thousands of trees each spring and actually used modified chainsaws that had drill chucks threaded on where the clutch would normally attach to drill the holes. (And yes that did require special drill bits because of the reverse rotation)

When the crews went out to do the tapping, the older guys who had been doing this for years would take the lead with the chainsaw-drills and all the younger kids would follow along pounding in spouts. The joke was for the older guys to occasionally drill into a pine or elm (or whatever) and see if the kid would notice or just pound in the spout anyway, which they often would - at least at first. But it didn't take very long - after all the razzing they would get about it - for them to learn exactly what a maple looked like.

I was one of those kids... lol

So yes, I can assure you that they were maples - of some kind.

 

[Altissimus]

Ha , my buddy Mark speaks the same ... Usually it'd be Grandpa out there. Drill a Poplar (Popple , Old School) and Soft Maples(Rubra) , better be able to pick that out or hear about it!

 

[cory]

I've had the same problem as the OP with new, unfiled chains in sugar maple, especially with smaller saws like 0201s. The wood is rock hard and the factory settings aren't suitable for it. It takes a few filings to get the teeth lower and the rakers (effectively) higher.

Just to add a bit of detail, the chains would frequently either bounce and chatter or a tooth would dig in and stop the chain instantly, especially when cutting where the wood is harder like in crotches or collars, not so bad cutting mid-span on a tender younger limb. I would cut with the front, pulling- chain part of the bar (somewhat near the nose) because cutting with the base of the bar or using the dogs...no no, chain no spin.

 

[Cuttinstuff]

Just to add a bit of detail, the chains would frequently either bounce and chatter or a tooth would dig in and stop the chain instantly, especially when cutting where the wood is harder like in crotches or collars, not so bad cutting mid-span on a tender younger limb. I would cut with the front, pulling- chain part of the bar (somewhat near the nose) because cutting with the base of the bar or using the dogs...no no, chain no spin.

Yep, that pretty much sums up exactly what I was experiencing. I had the most trouble when making the felling cuts - bucking was not quite as bad.

 

[cory]

I guess one thing that is curious to me is I never used to have problems cutting it. Sure it's always been rock hard and won't cut fast like a softer wood, but the chattering and grabbing seems to be new. Afaik Im using the same style/type chains on my 201s/200s.