Official Random Fact/Random Thought Thread!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Knotorious
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 613
  • Views Views 22K
Reasonable approach. It all seems weird to me, but I don't really like talking to people. In any case, I don't see how it can not be a major complication in your life. Nothing about that would be easy, and you've got to concentrate on getting back north before you crisp up.
 
Reasonable approach. It all seems weird to me, but I don't really like talking to people. In any case, I don't see how it can not be a major complication in your life. Nothing about that would be easy, and you've got to concentrate on getting back north before you crisp up.
Okay, Dad! I will! =-P
 
Random Fact:

Who FIRST created and developed, then put to market the frozen food concept?

Clarence Birdseye (1886-1956) is credited with inventing the quick freezing method in 1924, which produces the type of frozen foods that we know today.

1713886580182.jpeg

Birdseye, an American inventor, entrepreneur, and naturalist, is considered the founder of the modern frozen food industry. In 1912 Birdseye went to Labrador, where he took up work as a fur trader; he continued this work intermittently until 1917. In Labrador, people often froze food in the winter because of the difficulty of obtaining fresh food; this solution to their problem spurred Birdseye’s imagination.

His summary biography and details about his discoveries regarding frozen foods and refrigeration can be found in the link below (you could also find it on Wikipedia, I'm sure; I try not to use them whenever possible). This guy is UNDERRATED.

 
Last edited:
Random thought... I was just thinking I have a bunch of brush in the backyard I want to get rid of. I then thought "Hey! You have a chipper now!". Problem is I have too many trees, and can't get the chipper back there. However! With a few redirects, I bet I could winch the chipper to the backyard. That would give me a reason to buy a winch and try something ridiculous.

Or I could wait for it to dry and use the burn barrel. That's more sensible, but not as much fun as a winch.
 
I have a bolt-on swivel caster for my chipper tongue for the rare need.

Using slightly/ somewhat above- horizontal redirects might help. Don't dump it over backwards if the tongue is light.
 
Yup, usually easier to bring the brush to the chipper, and then haul the chips back if you need them for something. Also if you let them sit for a few weeks or so before chipping the leaves will dry and fall off, so you have clean chips for mulch.
 
Yea, that's an option I guess. That puts everything in the wrong place though. Where I have the brush stockpiled is also a good place to blow chips. They could either sit there til I wanted to use them, or spread them out to help smother the ivy. I'll give that some thought. I can lose chips out front. Makes it less of an interesting exercise, and more like brute force work, though it's a couple grand cheaper.
 
You might be able to use a riding mower or something to move the chipper back there, likely with a trailer dolly because of the tongue weight. I welded a trailer ball on the front of my zero turn for moving trailers, we had a rental house that we kept the bass boat at and making the turn to get it in the garage was a nightmare, so that was the easy fix. It was on pavement tho, dirt and grass would make it harder, but I'll drag small stuff like welders around the backyard with it all the time. My neighbor has one of old school baby tractors, they are far more capable than your run of the mill mower.
 
What happened to it? They're usually pretty easy to fix. I just did my push mower this week, it had lost the bolt that holds the blade on so it wouldn't run because the blade acts as the flywheel. A bit of ether to get it running long enough to suck the new gas and naphtha mix in (really cuts down on pulling it a bunch) and it runs like a dream again. The wife even took over so i could shower and finish making dinner so i could relax :)
 
There's a couple problems. First, is has carb issues. I can probably work around that. Second, when I was trying to get it going last time I tried, I lost my temper, yanked the shift handle "vigorously"( :^D ), and it quit trying to start altogether. I think that's some safety electronics. Should be easy. Lastly, I have a broken front axle. That's the most fatal problem, cause it would cost more than I want to put into it unless I find a free, or nearly free carcass somewhere. I think I can hack something together that would be good enough for a straightforward chipper hauling machine. It's basically go straight, and a couple easy turns. I don't know if there's enough tractor to pull the chipper, but if I can fix it (nearly)free, it would be worth trying.
 
You'll have to hunt the electronics down if that disabled it, and you can usually bypass them if a component broke. You can buy a new carb pretty cheap or fix that one, and you are around all sorts of guys welding all day, a 12 pack or so and that'll be a super easy fix. If not you basically have a huge winch ready to go, a big motor, multispeed transmission, and a rear end to act as a clutch. By braking one side the other side will turn, and releasing the one sided brake it'll free spool. If you wanted to use rope you can also just weld one wheel to the axle, then it'll always be turning like the portable winch does. If there's still life left in it you could use it for all sorts of stuff yet
 
Our elderly Troybilt riding mower would still be mowing if the deck hadn't finally rusted so badly that I could no longer patch it together...and by then it was old enough that no decent condition replacement decks where available that I could find.

But it still sees very frequent duty pulling the 3x6 foot steering yard wagon. I even cut down an old set of tire chains to fit the rears, and with those on it will pull quite a heavy load on wet grass and slopes without spinning out. That might help with your ideas @lxskllr and @Tree09.

Here's a link to a thread about the wagon, but the Troybilt is there too, before the deck died.

 
A 3:1 or more might be all you need.

If I didn't have a mini, I would use my simpson capstan a lot.



I saw this as an open box, compared to $253 new in box.




You already have a chipper battery to run it.





A Honda powered capstan would be very useful and long- lived, but pricier.
 
Random thought... I was just thinking I have a bunch of brush in the backyard I want to get rid of. I then thought "Hey! You have a chipper now!". Problem is I have too many trees, and can't get the chipper back there. However! With a few redirects, I bet I could winch the chipper to the backyard. That would give me a reason to buy a winch and try something ridiculous.

Or I could wait for it to dry and use the burn barrel. That's more sensible, but not as much fun as a winch.
I'm not sure how many pulleys you own, @lxskllr, but if you have four pulleys, the most efficient way to use them -- the way which will create the most mechanical advantage for that amount of pulleys -- is by creating a 9:1 (shown on the right in the photo). You will need two six coil prusiks (each connection made by each prusik between two strands will add MA by a factor of +2). So 2x prusiks is 2 + 2, which each strands accounting for a factor of +1. So 2+2+1+1+1+1 = 9:1.

Since this hauling system results in an upward pull direction, you'll need a 5th pulley as a COD (change of direction) pulley (above the last pulley on the left). Contrary to popular believe, COD pulleys do not add mechanical advantage. In fact, they actually decrease the MA a little bit due to the added friction of an addition pulley sheave being added into the system. But the COD will be necessary for having a functional, downward pull direction.

You can either have progress capture as showing in the diagram by using two six coil prusiks below the first pulley, or you can capture progress at the pull strand using either friction hitch(es) or, better yet, a mechanical device such as a Petzl Rig or GriGri or ID type belay style device or a toothed device (not recommended, because you can't lower), or you can use a rope wrench/hitch to make it easier to lower the load with a pulley below the tether to help make it easy to pull the slack through. A multicender device like the Rope Runner Pro or Unicender or Akimbo etc can also be used.

DO NOT use a multicender personal climbing device at the first pulley position. Devices like that aren't rated high enough for that location on the anchor. You could use it as your COD if it has a pulley, but at least second from the right pulley position in the 9:1.

If the anchor at the top of the system is accessible, you could use a hitch a belay device or multicender or hitch for progress capture in the position of the pulley on the top left in the diagram. A rope wrench with a pulley and hitch or a Rope Runner Pro would be ideal because they have pulleys and you wouldn't lose MA and you could lower from the anchor. You certainly could also use a belay style device, but you would add friction to your system, but it would definitely still work well since it's already 9:1, so lots of MA.

If it were me, I would have some kind of progress capture at the first pulley on the right at the anchor and back up progress with a belay device or hitch or chest ascender, etc at the pull strand. The reason it's a good idea to have progress capture at that first pulley is so that you can extend the load strand out to the load and then haul it up until the system has no more throw, then slide the prusik on the load strand down further towards the load to generate more throw, haul it up more, etc until you've raise the load to where you want it. This allow syou to use a much shorter rope. But if you have a really long rope, then this isn't important. You can start the system as shown in the diagram.



1714591810040.png

If you don't own any rigging plates, I would highly recommend buying one for the anchor. I own two of these and they are well made. You would only need one for this 9:1 and, if you want to use less MA and just do a vertical Z-Rig (3:1 with COD pulley; diagram shown below), you would only need 3 pulleys (2 regular, 1 COD), but a rigging plate would still be really helpful with organizing your anchor. A rigging plate also allows for you to anchor everything with just one TIP. If you look at the rigging plate I linked below, it has a center slot (this is for a dynamic connection) and two holes on each side at the top (this is for a static connection). For your application, you should create a static anchor by placing two carabiners into each side hole on the top and then connecting them both together with one knot. Or you could tie each one separately to each loop of a single double bowline; so long as the loops are the same size. This will create an anchor that doesn't move side to side as you haul, adding to the system's efficiency.

1714594073288.png
Amazon product ASIN B085Q8VKGP
1714593115592.png

If you already know all of this, then disregard. I'm a bit of a mechanical advantage nerd/connoisseur. I think pulleys are amazing, incredibly pieces of hardware. If you have any questions, let me know. Without knowing exactly what you have available for anchors over this barrier, it's difficult for me to provide any more advice. If you need an anchor that not only hauls, but can be moved laterally, I have a lot of experience with that as well. I'm sure a lot of people on here have that kind of experience.

I'll shut up now! =-P
 
Last edited:
Random Fact:

A baby born on a plane flight or ship over international waters usually takes on the citizenship of their parents, a rule known as jus sanguinis.

However, the 1961 Convention on the Reduction of Statelessness states that a birth on a ship or aircraft in international waters should be treated as a birth in the country where the ship or aircraft is registered.

This rule only applies if the child would otherwise be stateless, which is rare because most children are covered by jus sanguinis at birth.
 
Most popular surnames around the world...

1716036704814.png

I have a question for @stig or anyone else that may know... How exactly do names work in Iceland? "Jónsdóttir" caught my attention. I have a vague understanding of how it works, but never gave it a lot of thought. I'm thinking "Does that mean there's more women?", and then the sand got thrown in the gears... What if you have boy/girl twins? Do they have different last names? How the hell do you keep track of anyone? That scheme works in a village setting(mostly), but gets untenable as the population increases. The number of Jóns(Johns) I know is uncountable. Who's daughter are you exactly? :^D I looked up Björk thinking I could figure it out myself. That lead me to her father Guðmundur Gunnarsson, and that wiki entry raises some eyebrows...

Guðmundur's parents were Gunnar Guðmundsson and Hallfríður Guðmundsdóttir.

So, how does it all work?

edit:
Here's some bonus Björk...

 
Last edited:
Most popular surnames around the world...

View attachment 138878

I have a question for @stig or anyone else that may know... How exactly do names work in Iceland? "Jónsdóttir" caught my attention. I have a vague understanding of how it works, but never gave it a lot of thought. I'm thinking "Does that mean there's more women?", and then the sand got thrown in the gears... What if you have boy/girl twins? Do they have different last names? How the hell do you keep track of anyone? That scheme works in a village setting(mostly), but gets untenable as the population increases. The number of Jóns(Johns) I know is uncountable. Who's daughter are you exactly? :^D I looked up Björk thinking I could figure it out myself. That lead me to her father Guðmundur Gunnarsson, and that wiki entry raises some eyebrows...

Guðmundur's parents were Gunnar Guðmundsson and Hallfríður Guðmundsdóttir.

So, how does it all work?

edit:
Here's some bonus Björk...


Really cool map!


Icelandic surnames are primarily patronymic, meaning they are based on the father's first name, with the suffix "-son" for boys and "-dóttir" for girls.

Under this system, if your Icelandic Father's name is Magnus, and you are the son of Magnus, your last name would be Magnusson - this tells people that you are the son of Magnus. If you are the daughter of Magnus, your last name would be Magnussdottir (dottir translates to daughter). The patronymic system means that Icelanders are really a first-name kind of country. In fact, people are listed by their first names in Icelandic telephone books. Another thing that is different in Iceland is that when a couple marries, the woman doesn't change her last name.

Icelandic surnames are also sometimes matronymic, which means they are based on the mother's name. This might be used if the child or mother wants to end ties with the father.

Icelandic names often have a poetic feel and may even tell a story. Some Icelanders are named after Norse gods, mountains, volcanoes, or feelings.

Iceland has strict laws that govern the naming of children to preserve the country's linguistic and cultural heritage. These laws require that all names follow Icelandic grammar and pronunciation rules, and be compatible with the Icelandic language.

***Produced by Google's AI***
 
Back
Top