Not sure about this tree

;) Never forget that felling and bucking any tree is an excercise in adaptive management...it's not uncommon to find Plan A modified into Plan B as you process the feedback the tree gives to your initial actions.
 
Like I said... just cut the fookin' thing already. :lol:

Are you done yet, Jay?!

:P
 
I'm with Butch and Dave, too.
Except I'd bore it and set a backstrap for peace of mind.

Yes, I know, "just get her done", but honestly If you are a bit accompished in utilizing borecuts, it doesn't take any longer that way.

Of course if you are waving a way too long bar around and trying to bore hardwood with a full skip chain, it is another matter.:lol:
 
I'm with Willie: Tie em' together. Low conventional with a small gap at the back to get away with a narrower diagonal. Normal back cut.
 
I'm with Butch and Dave, too.
Except I'd bore it and set a backstrap for peace of mind.

Yes, I know, "just get her done", but honestly If you are a bit accompished in utilizing borecuts, it doesn't take any longer that way.

Of course if you are waving a way too long bar around and trying to bore hardwood with a full skip chain, it is another matter.:lol:

Stig, please elaborate on the full skip versus full comp for boring cuts.
 
Here where I live, loggers borecut every tree they cut. Every guy I work with is dumbfounded by the idea of doing it any other way. It shows how little they know and how closed minded they are.
 
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  • #61
Well, it's on for the day after tomorrow, I'll get an exact time for you when the tree succumbs, Erik. :lol:

Some divergence of opinion here, but considering everyone's good intentions, I'm confident that it is all going to magically materialize into a plan of auction at the sight.

One aspect that makes me think that dropping both leads one at a time and leaving the lower section for last, being preferable, is that the lead on the left has limbs opposite the slight lean to the lay, the balance is questionable to me, so it would be easier to get the desired effect from wedges without the extra weight of the lower section. That is my theory anyway. If I still am indecisive, I'm going to climb up and drop the limbs off the back. Think I'll bore cut the more leaning lead on the right, the one more heavily favoring the lay. I can use the practice.

Great input, thanks all very much.
 
Bore cutting is a valid tool, but using it where it isn't necessary is just a waste of time.

Even worse, it can screw you, because once you've made the bore, you're committed to a hinge and can't really change it. So... If you find out the tree has a defect, it's too late to compensate by make a wider hinge, etc. Especially so if you're using it on non-head leaners.
 
More ways to skin a cat than sticking its head in a boot jack and jerking on its tail
 
Stig, please elaborate on the full skip versus full comp for boring cuts.

The longer distance between cutters makes it enter the wood less efficient when boring.
The harder the wood, the more difficult it is to bore into without the bar tip bouncing off.
Full skip will bounce off more than full comp.
At least that is my experience.

I'd like some input from others, though.



Erik, when boring, only a novice will bore in right behind the hinge. Best way is to bore in maybe 4" behind where you plan to set the hinge. That way any defects will show themselves and you can adjust the hinge thickness accordingly.

But you are of course right, using it when not necessary is a waste of time.
Everything has it's place and time.
 
Kinda figured as much. I was boring for a block face and the rakers were a bit low. Grabby to start, so I used a different saw to bore as deep as I could, then switched. Much more effective.
 
C'mon now Jed, you know in your short time here you wanted mud tires on your wifes car
 
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A high torque saw can make starting a bore cut a little difficult too. I love my 034 with the modified 036 top end on it, light and mean. Kicks out, though, bore cuts are like whoa!
 
Your the one walking around the tree Jay. Trust your own judgement before you cut. I used to hate it when I was told how to do a job, with the boss breathing down my neck. That did not last long, I handed him the saw & asked him where would be safe to stand. Idiot still wiped out a load of fencing. Not his finest hour with me laughing at him :)
 
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It all went real straight forward like. Flopped the more leaning lead with a plunge cut and tripping from the back, worked super well. The farmer kept saying that he had never seen anything like that. I climbed the remaining one and dropped the two limbs coming off the back, then it was easy peasy to just use a standard face and back cut to drop it into the field. I could have cut it at the base at that point, ala Butch and Willie's idea, but i decided to leave the stump standing, paint and cover the cuts, then go back another day when I have the ability to load it into a truck. It occurred that it would make an awesome low table given the right location, maybe just cut it in half and have two sections for two tables, real thick on short feet. It all depends if it can dry relatively undamaged, often not so much the case with the species, but I figured it to be worth a try, and set it in a cool spot out of the heat. The farmer was agreeable to about anything, he was very happy to have the tree down. That is him on the left with his brother, he's 86, and pretty spry. They brought their handsaws, cut a few twigs to help. Nice guys, kept buying me coffee and such. Someone came by and said that the tree is where he liked to go and collect acorns with his young son. :( Said I was sorry about that.

Anyway, cutting and bucking it all up took most of a day. Some pretty decent sized rounds there, and very hard wood, then I noticed that I was needed to help drag the bucked up wood out of the field. What can you do? Still, those guys did pretty good for themselves, lots of grunting and groaning among us all.

Thanks for all the advice, it really helped me get it sorted out. :)
 

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