Not sure about this tree

[SkwerI]

If you're going to tie the leads together then the higher you can do that the better. Chaining just above the fork won't help as much because there is so much leverage above the chain. Think about putting a 50' pry bar on it and pulling. A tensioned rope tying the stems together at canopy level will be much more effective IMO.

 

[woodworkingboy]

I see, I do have cable and a ratchet tightening mechanism. Guess I will look at it again with the possibility to climbing and cabling it as high as I can, then cutting at the base. I also see Sean's perspective. Guess I need to make up my mind.

 

[SkwerI]

Many ways to skin a cat.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Yup. Thanks all for the help, I think I am about 35% less confused now.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Go with what makes you feel more secure and safe with the fell, what you would be comfortable doing Jay.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Yeah, Stephen. It's a sad state of affairs when one has to go though such a dilemma for a hundred and twenty bucks, that's all I can say.

 

[sotc]

It couldn't hurt to put your binder on below the crotch along with a top rope. I would do it where theres wood all the way across though as opposed to right above the crotch. As has been mentioned though, were not seeing it first hand. What diameter are the leads?

 

[CurSedVoyce]

true that.
$120 would see that basal pruned here no dicing or slicing.. Drop and walk.
Won't take you long to make manageable pieces of it with an adequate sharp saw like i know you own. Maybe he'll have mama san make some tea and cookies. Spa? Lunch? That is always worth it

 

[woodworkingboy]

I guess about 20-24 inches, Willie.

Yes, the neighbor helped me out once, told me of the vacant building which is currently my shop, guess I owe him.

 

[SouthSoundTree]

If you can wedge the one side, there doesn't seem to be anything to hit, a handful of wedges goes a long way, especially if it doesn't need much.

I wonder about tying leads together as far as over-straining your equipment, especially on a relatively cheap job. If the leads get forced apart when they hit with all that energy, it would be unfortunate to spend all the earning replacing it, or wondering how much force was exerted on the equipment when you need it next, possibly over obstacles like a house. I'd try to stay on the ground for $120, felled and bucked.

 

[sotc]

Surely one of your suped up saws would outcut a barber chair on a diameter like that

 

[woodworkingboy]

Not much to hit. One point to note, is although the leads are leaning generally favorable, they are also leaning at about 130 degrees opposite each other, a wide spread. It is going to land on soft ground.

You think a 10 mm cable could bust? I'd put the ratchet on the side away from the lean. if I stayed on the ground, I would probably want to do more work that day in my shop.

My Husky would work good for that, Willie. New chain too.

 

[sotc]

I don't think i'd depend on that down low unless its a high strength

 

[woodworkingboy]

You mean the cable? I've only ever busted one, but that was pulling with a large excavator.

 

[sotc]

10 mm seems small to me, thats all

 

[woodworkingboy]

When in doubt use 12 mm is what I see here. Unfortunately, don't have one. I have some 3/4" stable braid, wonder which is stronger? Hate to see that break.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

3/4 Stable braid should do just peachy....

 

[NeTree]

Where's the "after" pics?

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Lets see... two minutes away... Have to load the bike... take another look at the tree and decide to go back and get something he might need... Then prep the tree... Have tea and cookies with mama san...
Crap this is gonna take all night

 

[MasterBlaster]

Imma lazy bastid!

I'd do it in two cuts, seeing as how there's no targets.

 

[thattreeguy]

2 sections individually,
torch em of quick so they dont b chair
dont dawg in, just quickly buzz thru it,
i wouldnt screw with keeping them together, not on that stump

 

[pantheraba]

Now I am not saying to do this...but...has anyone ever tied the top of one lead to a second lead (tether it)...tie #1 in Butch's picture, the right lead, to the left lead, #2..you'd have to leave some slack in the tether.

Make a face cut in #1 and a back cut until lead #1 commits to the lay and puts a good pull on lead #2...still keeping a good hinge to keep it all together, only enough back cut to get the tree to commit to the lay, maybe 15-20 degrees (except Jay said the wood didn't hinge too well).

Then face up #2 and back cut it while #1 is pulling #2 in the proper direction.

Any doers that have done this kind of thing out there? Not trying to make anybody apoplectic, it just flashed through my mind.:what:

 

[sotc]

Wouldn't want to stand under the first one while cutting the second myself

 

[Peter]

Yup, done that a few times. Works very well, so long as you don't get too ambitious.

That tree, rigged and cut as you describe, I would be pretty confident of it going exactly as planned.

 

[DMc]

Do it like Butch said. That tree does not have enough head lean/weight to be of great concern. Just make sure the first section is fully clear to fall without snagging upper canopy limbs. Playing around with chokers and cables will kill more time and still not remove all risk.
Cut straight and cut fast.

Dave