New guy from Australia, California

Jomo

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Definitely not blue gum imo, unlike anything I've seen, which is far from the 700 some odd sub species who've made California home.

I'm interested in bartering climb time for board feet David.

Jomo
 

SeanKroll

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We stripped what we could out of a 6-7' dbh, 130'+ tall cottonwood with a 60' bucket, next to a large pavilion, and hung a winch line.

I slammed ever wedge I could find (15 or so) and keep up with, in the back cut, as my work partner bored-in to set a thick hinge-corner, on the pavilion side, chasing around with a 660.

I was concerned it would buckle the stump.

4-6" rind at 4.5'.

My work partner climbed in for pics.

1'+ of wood, with a pull, sounds very plausible.






Anyone had a stump collapse?
 

davidwyby

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I think too much lean or pull would contribute to collapse. I don't think I'd need a pull on mine. Euc is stronger than cottonwood but a bit brittle and very heavy (weight of tree above stump).

Another option would be to fell from lift about 12' up where it's solid. What do you think @gf beranek ?
 

SeanKroll

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We left it cut-up, standing on wedges and the corners, then quickly pulled with a strong hydraulic winch and 1/2" Amsteel.

Agreed, lean or too early of pull is bad.


Seems like many tree people (not suggesting anyone particularly) think that pulling and cutting until it falls is the way, every tree. On stable trees and minor backleaners (if that big Euc back-leaned, I'd approach it differently), I cut it up, then wedge it over or pull it over on a planned hinge.

I hope that the industry is moving to more people using basic, cheap, portable, necessary wedges. A few pounds of weight and under $100, you can do work for years. Power tools have their place.
 

SeanKroll

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Do you jack trees?

Did I mishear 17' dbh? 7'? Didn't watch much. My energy is up and down today, as I'm sick.

If you have a lift, it seems easier to break the tree apart in an organized way, rather then dump it at 12' with overhanging branches from a lift. Your Mileage May Vary.
 

SeanKroll

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A long drill-bit in the hinge area to check for wood condition is a great tool. 1/4x12" is cheap. If you're got a foot of solid hinge corner, you've got a lot.


Silvey stopped making jacks, I believe, but I've seen a newer manufacturer.


120 tons of go-over-there does a lot.

Overkill. I was taught to start the gauge at 5000psi, IIRC, and keep it wedged tight. If the pressure drops you're winning. If it goes up, its sitting back. Gauges are valuable.





These guys had success.
John White Using Tree Jacks (madsens1.com)





I'm not getting younger. I just picked up a 2T little bottle jack to save my elbows from wedging. I have a 20t, too.
 
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davidwyby

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Beans, all my pics are sideways and I’m too lazy to spin ‘em. Don’t get a kink in your neck…couple better pictures of Hollow…and a pic of me with some uneducated person’s work with jacks… 54DA555E-12E0-43C0-97E8-3B5D3524FEEA.jpeg 21B352F1-C90A-489A-BF79-1CC6831935C5.jpeg C7833883-0F2D-4F36-B8D8-604E1BB2FFBC.jpeg C4A51209-DE77-4D12-BD1D-9B71C642EE9C.jpeg
 

SeanKroll

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Consider an amsteel/ dyneema, basal-anchored for pulling while felling, in place of cable.


Which way does it lean compared to the lay?


Looking forward to Gerry's sage input.
 

davidwyby

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What's the rationale for cutting the tree down?

Jomo
Attractive nuisance for human, bird, and animal waste in organic fields. Seems a shame to me…but also a good challenge and experience. It’s also just kind of out there by itself sucking up water…not shading or wind breaking or anything.
 
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