MS200 rear handle or MS260 Pro

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Al and Jay, he was asking about experience climbing with the rear handled MS200 specifically. He knows almost everybody uses the 200T.
 
Oh.....using a top handle or rear handle in a tree, is it fair to say that a top handle is usually preferred, but a rear handle is mo better sometimes?
 
Leon, try the 346xp Husky. Not trying to make you switch brands or anything, but in that size saw the Husky runs circles around the MS260.


Not to worry Brian, I have seen the light on that front.8) I'm not a stickler for one brand or the other, as long as it's the right model. The 346xp is one nice saw.
 
So does anyone on here besides Larry have some experience with the 200 as a climbing saw?? I read through the thread and saw a few mentions on the topic, but no one really went into a lot.

I've used both, the 200 not near so much as the 200T, but I liked the 200 pretty well. Every now and then I badly wanted to one hand a cut, and you can't safely do that with the 200 (some might argue the same for a 200T, but I beg to differ :)), but most of the time I liked it just fine. A guy could do alot worse.
 
If I couldn't safely one hand the 200, I wouldn't want it. I had no problem with that when I was in the saw shop checking it out.
 
Of course - in pics. And except for the actual handle, they look exactly the same.
 

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It would cost you almost as much as a new saw. The 'plastic pieces' include the fuel tank and saw frame. Pretty much everything but the motor.
 
It would cost you almost as much as a new saw. The 'plastic pieces' include the fuel tank and saw frame. Pretty much everything but the motor.

I wouldn't have guessed that from the pics. Seems like Stihl would figure out a way to share more parts between the two models.

Thanks.
 
Brian is right. I have converted a T or to rearhandle 200. The only thing the the tophandle and the rearhandle have in common is the engine, muffler and the side cover with the chainbrake. I think they share the same gas tank but the venting might be different. Everything else including the intake carb boot is different on the 200. It has been awhile since I have been into a 200 so I might be off a little here and there.

Sthil is pretty proud of those parts too. The only to make it work is to have donor saws with good parts which is where I lucked out. Otherwise it is easier to just buy a new saw with whatever option you want.

Not as simple like it was on those 020's where all you had to do was switch handles and turn a anti-vib mount around.
 
If I couldn't safely one hand the 200, I wouldn't want it. I had no problem with that when I was in the saw shop checking it out.

I think you will have no problem one handing it. Maybe not all day long but its definetly easy once and a while.

I should have said "I can't one hand it safely".

If you can, fine.

The problem for me is dead stopping the downward swing at the point I finish a cut...there's a lag there in my ability to hold the saw from continuing downward a bit. Obviously an issue of wrist/forearm strength, which will not be so for others, Butch in particular.
 
Trust me, I one hand as little as possible. It's automatic for me to use both hands.

I didn't mean to indicate that was not the case, Butch...rather you just are clearly strong enough to handle that 200 in a way I cannot, when the occasional need for one handing occurs. In those cases I am far better off with the 200T.
 
I have a weak wrist, I think from twisting woodworking clamps. I can't ever find the time to rest it long enough to heal. Consequently, rear handled saws seem to be easier on me, more like the physical effort, or the weight when cutting, gets distributed over my whole arm, compared to more wrist action with the top handle. With the top handle, my wrist starts hurting pretty quick. I don't know if that might translate into wrist problems later on, for people with healthy wrists now.
 
Over a period of years doing repetitive stuff you can get tendonitis and a host of other maladies which just amplify with age . You just have to figure a way to do it easier with less wear and tear on the old bod .

Take it from who knows you soon learn what long pry bars ,cheater handles and other such stuff are good for .It may not be as fast but the absence of aches and pains the next morning is well worth the extra time involved .
 
We have a beat up old 026 stihl at work it runs sweet and performs better than the newer saws they have brought.

Damian
 
The other day I was limbing in my pine tree (about half way up)and regretted selling my 200T and understood the frustration for the first time using my poulan 2000 (owned 14 years) and 1800 as back up to why you climbers throw them from trees.
I thought I could live without the 200T

What I want to know can the rear handle 200 be one handed up in the trees limbing without nose heavy feeling?

I just never like the position of the 200T front handle when used 2 handed cutting, 1 handed it was great. So this is the reason I was checking on the rear handled 200 to see if it could be 1 handed and is the front handle position changed for better 2 handed cutting?
 
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