MS200 rear handle or MS260 Pro
- Thread starter Burnham
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brendonv
Tree Hugger
There's something about the handle that just looks flimsy, how's it feel?
I'd like to get one, the groundie always likes to grab the 200T instead of the 361.
I'd like to get one, the groundie always likes to grab the 200T instead of the 361.
littlenick
TreeHouser
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
I defer to experienced opinions, but the 200 I briefly tried out, sure seemed like a pansy. Are those thin bars a good thing?
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
No full wrap handlebar?
What do you have to compare it to Jay? I've run both the 020T/MS200T and a couple of different incarnations of Husky's climber, and I don't think much at all of the Husky saw. In fact, I think it would make a great bludgeon for killing mice stuck in glue traps. Might be good for rats, if'n rbtree tuned it up first.
What do you have to compare it to Jay? I've run both the 020T/MS200T and a couple of different incarnations of Husky's climber, and I don't think much at all of the Husky saw. In fact, I think it would make a great bludgeon for killing mice stuck in glue traps. Might be good for rats, if'n rbtree tuned it up first.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
No direct comparison to another 35cc saw in mind, Dave, just my gut impression. The fellow who brought it over and asked me to check it out to find more power, is a gardner who does a lot of limb removals from his lift on the truck, and he has a number of saws in that cc range. He seems to prefer the Husky 334t for power, the same cc, but a top handle.
I might try tossing the base gasket and see what that does.
I might try tossing the base gasket and see what that does.
SkwerI
Treehouser
Jay, I'd recommend looking for power-robbing problems first before pulling the jug. A properly running 200T will make mincemeat out of the 334xpt. Unplug the muffler and dial in the carb first. You might be surprised.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
What do you have for mix oil over there Jay? I haven't had any problems with plugged screens since I started using the Stihl orange, or white (ultra) mix. The Echo stuff plogs things up pretty bad.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Right about the muffler, Skwerl, worth checking out. I did already adjust the carb. It gained a few high end revs from it, but small change. I should specify, it's an MS200, not the T. I told him to buy the 200T and stop messing around.
SkwerI
Treehouser
The running gear should be the same, Jay.
The muffler slides out quite easily if you remove the clutch drum/ sprocket and then remove the plastic dust cover underneath it.
The muffler slides out quite easily if you remove the clutch drum/ sprocket and then remove the plastic dust cover underneath it.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
2 cycle oil...a lot of brands. I prefer the synthetic these days, mostly Castrol or a Japanese brand, "high performance", a bit pricey, oils. Stihl doesn't want to sell the Ultra here, for some reason. Next time I think I'll purchase the Mobil T, still available here.
That's a good point....my friend likes to mix 25:1, not sure what brand he's using. I said to go to 32:1. If I suggested any less oil, he'd be even more stubborn.
That's a good point....my friend likes to mix 25:1, not sure what brand he's using. I said to go to 32:1. If I suggested any less oil, he'd be even more stubborn.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
What do you mean by running gear? Is there a max rpm difference between the MS200 and the T?
SkwerI
Treehouser
Take some pictures of the inside of his muffler, then after he runs the 200 at full power maybe he might reconsider clogging up his saws with too much oil.
:roll:
By 'running gear', I mean everything except the handle. Same motor, same carb, same porting, same muffler, etc.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
Good advice. I did some tuning on his Husky 55 the other day, and noted that the plug was in a high carbonized state.
Same saws, I did not know that. That leads to some different thinking. Thanks!
Same saws, I did not know that. That leads to some different thinking. Thanks!
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
You don't even have to remove the clutch to get the muffler off unless you want to .Just unscrew one screw and lift out the inner plastic plate and it slides right out---after a fashion that is .
Thare are two screws that come out the bottom and 4 screws holding the muffler halves together . You can have one out and apart in less than ten minutes .
Thare are two screws that come out the bottom and 4 screws holding the muffler halves together . You can have one out and apart in less than ten minutes .
No_Bivy
Treehouser
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yeah....the filter thing sucks...
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
So what sox about it? Pixs?
mryb
"The Disrupter"
Burnham rules...
Burnham
Woods walker
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #122
Well, I don't know about that...but here's some pictures nonetheless
Side by side comparison, more or less.
The 200 is less convenient to work with than the 200T...to remove the filter you need your carb adjustment screwdriver to carefully pry the plastic tabs that lock it into place. There's a little bit of a trick to it, keeping one open while you pry the second one. Not a task for ham-handed groundies, you may be sure.
Attachments
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Cool Burnham thanks. Yah those clips on the filter look kinda cheesy for a Stihl product.
.
Ax-Man
Don't make me chop you
I haven't had a problem with those clips on the rear handled version. The air filtration system on the 200 isn't quite as good as the T 200. I noticed some real fine bits of debris getting past the filter and end up right next to and some down into the venturi of the carb. Nothing big but still visible to the eye. Just have to clean the filter more is all.
I have been using a rear handle 200 as climbing saw. Sweet to say the least. The problem I have seen is the air filter cover pops off too easily when moving around in a tree. I finally put two pieces of duct tape over the knob. That keeps in place.
Mine doesn't like really cold weather either like what we have had to work in as of late. When the saw gets warmed up, it is fine but when it gets cooled down you have full choke it to start and wait for it to warm up a little bit to make a full throttle cut. It is not too lean either as when the tempertures would climb by midday it was much easier starting. I think it is those darn Zama carbs. We were running some of our older Sthils during the cold snap with the Walbros and Tilly's in them. Once started and warmed up we could put those next to or on top of a snow bank and they would start on the first pull.
My son asked me why we were having trouble with the newer saws starting and running in the cold weather and this was the best answer I could come up with.
I think you made a good choice Burnham. We have two of these rear handled saws and they are the favorites for light ground work till you get into the heavier wood and need a bigger saw. Plenty of power and lightweight. I have a couple of 26's but they don't see much action.
I have been using a rear handle 200 as climbing saw. Sweet to say the least. The problem I have seen is the air filter cover pops off too easily when moving around in a tree. I finally put two pieces of duct tape over the knob. That keeps in place.
Mine doesn't like really cold weather either like what we have had to work in as of late. When the saw gets warmed up, it is fine but when it gets cooled down you have full choke it to start and wait for it to warm up a little bit to make a full throttle cut. It is not too lean either as when the tempertures would climb by midday it was much easier starting. I think it is those darn Zama carbs. We were running some of our older Sthils during the cold snap with the Walbros and Tilly's in them. Once started and warmed up we could put those next to or on top of a snow bank and they would start on the first pull.
My son asked me why we were having trouble with the newer saws starting and running in the cold weather and this was the best answer I could come up with.
I think you made a good choice Burnham. We have two of these rear handled saws and they are the favorites for light ground work till you get into the heavier wood and need a bigger saw. Plenty of power and lightweight. I have a couple of 26's but they don't see much action.
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