Morbark Chipper Won't Start

  • Thread starter Thread starter NickfromWI
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Air in the fuel line is generally a temporary problem. I think that your engine is not sucking air or air locked. It would not run at all if the lines are full of air.

As I mentioned in post 39, the ignition system seems to be interrupting the voltage to the fuel shut off. I think you and your techs are on the right track. Good luck!

I know you are pissed off at having your chipper down, but I love this stuff! Sorry!

( If you have to you can hook up 12 volts to the shut off solenoid and see if it runs then.) You could chip like that if you had to. You would have to manually remove the voltage to the shut off to stop the engine.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #53
I will NOT take that bet. If I had the part, I would switch it out right away. I have a feeling that's gonna be the problem.

Willie, it's
morbark part number 29211-628
Fram P-4766
Kubota 70000-430781

That's the screw on filter. I can get pics in the day time tomorrow
 
Let me check with my local dealer, see if he can cross reference the numbers. Probably be Monday
 
That sucks. I looked up the filter number and numbers cross reference to others. The little filter is just a standard primary inline.

Napa 3323 is one of the numbers.

wix 33390

FleetGuard FF 42003

Baldwin BF 7683

Donaldson P55-0127

Not sure how accurate this is, but hope you can get a filter.
 
NickfromWI said:
"I will NOT take that bet. If I had the part, I would switch it out right away. I have a feeling that's gonna be the problem."

Nick, I’m hesitant to get in the fray but, if I understand correctly you would replace the ignition if you had the part. If you don't care that the ignition key says Morbark on it you can easily get that from any good auto parts house.

Someone that knows for sure can chime in but I believe the important point is how many wire terminals are on the back, 3, 4, etc.. Think my last 3 position ignition switch was $15 or some such.

(Mark the wires ahead of time and move over to similar position on new switch.) By marking them you can be sure that not only are you getting them to the correct location but also that you are not creating more troubleshooting headaches should your $15 experiment fail.
Click to expand...
 
Take a picture ofthe back of the switch! The Napa number Randy gave is the same on my chipper, although Bandit.
 
Nick, another idea.... I called up a mate that is a mechanic that specializes in automotive engine electronics. Could be the switch he says, or also a problem with the starter solenoid that allows fuel to flow when the switch gets turned on, and shuts off the fuel when the switch is turned off. Different setups, but it can activate the fuel pump. Generally the solenoid has a plunger rod that moves in when the starter is turned, and it should remain in that position after the engine starts or simply with the key turned on. If it moves back to extended, it will be shutting off the fuel. If you can locate the solenoid and have someone turn the key, if it isn't totally internal, you might be able to see how the plunger responds, if it stays in the contracted position or not. If it returns to pushed out with the key on after start up, starved for fuel is why the engine quits. You might check the connection at the solenoid contact, often a fitting that pulls apart or a connector under a nut, with a ground wire or grounded to the engine. Solenoids can go bad on new engines, he says. Solenoids can be easy to replace yourself, or pulled out to get further checked.
 
Fuel.......

I doubt the key switch is bad. Put a volt meter on it to see if you have 12 v to starter when key is on. Watch meter as you turn key.
I would check all connections on back though. That's what my problem was on Autofeed browning out. Had twelve volts on meter but under load it would drop and auto feed would blank out. New terminal solved problem.

Crack and injector to see if fuel is getting there as you trun key
 
Merle I think you are correct. I replaced the key switch on my old chipper from O'reillys for about $10. If I had to do it again I'd be going through NAPA before Bandit.

Nick, The other thing you need to match besides prongs is the action of the ignition, if yours has an accessory it not, match it to the right part at the store.

Also. Take off the negative battery terminal so you can't get zapped working on it. And more importantly, TAKE PICTURES of the existing wiring before you disassemble anything, thank me later for that one.
 
As FFZ said, the ignition system killing the fuel seems likely, but you said it would run at a high RPM right? That makes me think otherwise.

I've seen water in the filters cause a similar condition, where the motor could maintain a high RPM but would die at idle.

Good luck Nick, don't let it stress you out, worst case you can just go rent a chipper right? 8)
 
Hey thanks for posting this Nick. I've read this and guess what, my chipper decides to quit. I'm getting a key switch and Murphy switch just to make sure. No power to the starter seliniod. I tried jumping the seliniod and nothing. Hooked cables straight from battery to starter and it cranks but the fuel shut off won't release. This happened after trimming 3 pin oaks today. Got a mechanic buddy coming to look at it tomorrow. Borrowing a chipper from another company to finish the job. This has pushed me over the edge with this machine though. Searching for a 250xp now
 
If you jumped the solenoid and it doesn't release the fuel shut off, it must be a bad solenoid. A solenoid plunger rod can get gummed up and stuck sometimes. Good luck on the repair.
 
Speaking of which. The Dingo was giving me fits for a while and it turned out to be a partially clogged fuel shut off valve. Blew it out with some air and it works fine now. Just some dirty gas that ruined my day. Happens a lot up here in the hills. Like they buy the tank dredges and everything runs like crap all of a sudden from one gas station, but fine from another. Go figure.
 
Lot of 250XP's out there. Are you familiar with "My Craigs Finder.com" treebilly? Can search all of Craigslist at one time. Some very nice machines and bargains that might be worth traveling to get or having shipped.
 
Yeah I'm finding quite a lot of them within 300 miles of me. Gonna give the dealer a call also to set up a demo just to make sure it's what I want. Never heard anything bad about them. I'm also a little unsure of the engine I would prefer. 100 hp at least and not a duetze(?).
 
Jay is close in his idea. Kubota uses a three wire plug on the fuel shutoff solenoid, black is ground, I believe white engages during start and red is hold in the run position. It sounds to me it's getting voltage in the start position then loses voltage in the run position killing the fuel flow. Either a safety switch or ignition switch.
Keep in mind that everything on a deisel engine is run buy the fuel system, it's the only way to control them!
 
Nick, something else occured to me, mechanics (like anything) can seem mysterious to a person that hasn't had a certain level of exposure to it in life. Aside from the fact that you want your chipper running for work again as soon as possible, would you ideally like to understand the mechanical principals so you can repair things more yourself? Or do you just want your equipment to do its job and someone else to fix it?
 
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