MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
Interesting!!!
milling thread
- Thread starter sotc
- Start date
- Replies 2K
- Views 225K
rfwoody
Treehouser
Will Malloff in his classic book "Chainsaw Lumbermaking" shows doing this by:
1. attaching boards to the ends of the log
2. string 2 mason lines between the two boards -- establishing where the ladder (or length of flat (e.g. 2x12") board) will sit on
3. put lag bolts (also seen big nails used) along the 2 strings (e.g. every 2 or 3') so the tops of the bolts/nails are level with the strings.
4. remove the end boards and the string
-- so now you have 2 straight, parallel lines (e.g. 8" apart) of the tops of bolts/nails the length of the whole log (10', 20', 30', etc.).
Now set your ladder or board (e.g. say 8' 2x12) on the bolts/nails on one end and use that as the guide to start the first cut.
Then just slide the board along as you get to the end, all along the length of the log.
does that make sense?
and...
... the tops of the nails/bolts just have to be tall enough to clear any irregularities in the log
... and of course be sure the depth of the mill for this first cut will clear the points of the nails/bolts so the chain doesn't hit them.
1. attaching boards to the ends of the log
2. string 2 mason lines between the two boards -- establishing where the ladder (or length of flat (e.g. 2x12") board) will sit on
3. put lag bolts (also seen big nails used) along the 2 strings (e.g. every 2 or 3') so the tops of the bolts/nails are level with the strings.
4. remove the end boards and the string
-- so now you have 2 straight, parallel lines (e.g. 8" apart) of the tops of bolts/nails the length of the whole log (10', 20', 30', etc.).
Now set your ladder or board (e.g. say 8' 2x12) on the bolts/nails on one end and use that as the guide to start the first cut.
Then just slide the board along as you get to the end, all along the length of the log.
does that make sense?
and...
... the tops of the nails/bolts just have to be tall enough to clear any irregularities in the log
... and of course be sure the depth of the mill for this first cut will clear the points of the nails/bolts so the chain doesn't hit them.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
thanks
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Y’all are doing your best to give me the milling bug...
Raj
TreeHouser
Neat videos.
Only problem with the milling bug is when the saw needs service. Then hoping it's not major service!
Off to test run my 088 after a carb kit..... wish me luck.
Edit. Milled a 2" slab, 12" wide by 6' butternut. Did the wholr cut. It would have lost power 1-2' into the cut. Hope it's solved. I have a backlog of milling jobs.
Only problem with the milling bug is when the saw needs service. Then hoping it's not major service!
Off to test run my 088 after a carb kit..... wish me luck.
Edit. Milled a 2" slab, 12" wide by 6' butternut. Did the wholr cut. It would have lost power 1-2' into the cut. Hope it's solved. I have a backlog of milling jobs.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
How are you working your pricing structure for milling?
Nutball
TreeHouser
My first time milling, it went pretty well. I had always wondered how slow it goes having heard and seen what looks like slow cuts. In person it went way faster than I expected. The first and only cut I made (since it got dark fast) was a test cut and to get a flat surface on the log. I ended up cutting at a low rpm for a few reasons: I don't want to overheat the saw, I'm in a neighborhood and my muffler mod is very loud, and I found it cut way faster than I expected at a low rpm so no need to let 'er rip. I don't need a perfect finish on the boards, but literally I was cutting with just a little more throttle than it took to get the chain going as that's the amount I started the cut with. 8 tooth sprocket helped.
The rails worked well till I got to the end where I didn't move the screws back a foot to support the end, so it tipped the rails at the end.
The rails worked well till I got to the end where I didn't move the screws back a foot to support the end, so it tipped the rails at the end.
BlackSmith
Uncivil
Are the bolts in the rail cross members jacking/leveling bolts?
Nutball
TreeHouser
yes
Raj
TreeHouser
Nice!
Sean, I have a timed list of wood, width and length of cut. I do a bit of math and figure out how much time a log would take to mill. Add some travel and 1/2 hour set up.
Sean, I have a timed list of wood, width and length of cut. I do a bit of math and figure out how much time a log would take to mill. Add some travel and 1/2 hour set up.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Interesting, thanks.
Nutball
TreeHouser
I found today that the lower the chain speed (to a great, but not endless extent obviously) the faster it rips. I might try exploring that find more. No sense in burning up a saw and a ton of fuel when it cuts faster slower. Just kinda strange in a way, but at the same time its like bucking with too much pressure on a saw with a good sharp chain, so it bites really deep, runs slow rpm, but cuts kinda fast, though they tend to cut a little faster with less pressure, and at max power rpm. When ripping at low rpm like that, I found little difference in power between low and high throttle as if it runs lean at full throttle and really low rpm. I keep my saw tuned towards the rich side, but just beyond any frequent 4 stroking if I can help it. Might be not enough air flow speed for the carb opening size. I've heard of a similar problems with some engine that have a bored out carb, they are hard to start at high throttle that reason.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
We stacked cherry and madrone logs today, offloading, and then onloading more. Able to load and haul nice sized 10' madrone logs because they are dry, and only 45 MPH roads, tops. Reasonable load, but didn't need highway speed. All the loader would lift from the end.
Somehow I have a yard full of millable logs and wood. Gotta get after it.
Somehow I have a yard full of millable logs and wood. Gotta get after it.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
Interesting your experience nutball. I did a fair little chunk of milling with both a modded 66 and a 880. But I always ran them WOT. I found that to be fastest to me.
Raj
TreeHouser
Here's a small list of some milling times, single cut, including some setup, start the saw, set the winch line, tighen chain, sip of water, etc etc.
088 as the mill saw, ripping chain.
7ft pine 26" 7min
8ft sugar maple 29" 20min
8ft redoak 24" 10min
6ft walnut 24" 12min
7ft spruce 24" 7min
8ft silver maple 39" 12min
11ft cherry 18" 15min
9ft whiteoak 29" 20min
7ft whiteoak 24" 10min
9ft whiteoak 12" 10min
9ft whiteoak 20" 15min
088 as the mill saw, ripping chain.
7ft pine 26" 7min
8ft sugar maple 29" 20min
8ft redoak 24" 10min
6ft walnut 24" 12min
7ft spruce 24" 7min
8ft silver maple 39" 12min
11ft cherry 18" 15min
9ft whiteoak 29" 20min
7ft whiteoak 24" 10min
9ft whiteoak 12" 10min
9ft whiteoak 20" 15min
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Now to convert to square inches/ minute per species
I couldn't resist making one cut today, but then was out in time.
I think I have 36" milling chain. It was all I could cut with a 32", with dogs on. The knot was killing me, kept trimming it flusher and more.
Granberg said saws need to be within 10 cc of each other on a double-ended bar.
I've got a 460 and 461. Might run that on these cedar logs.
I'll get a 661 soon. Or 880.
I could get a second 661 for milling and all around use.
For richening up for milling, people talk about adjusting carbs. How much of a turn?
How about richer oil mix in the fuel?
I couldn't resist making one cut today, but then was out in time.
I think I have 36" milling chain. It was all I could cut with a 32", with dogs on. The knot was killing me, kept trimming it flusher and more.Granberg said saws need to be within 10 cc of each other on a double-ended bar.
I've got a 460 and 461. Might run that on these cedar logs.
I'll get a 661 soon. Or 880.
I could get a second 661 for milling and all around use.
For richening up for milling, people talk about adjusting carbs. How much of a turn?
How about richer oil mix in the fuel?
Burnham
Woods walker
That would make a beauty of a coffee table...I want!
Raj
TreeHouser
Nice!
I'd like to find another 066/660 to put on a double end bar..... One that needs repair is fine by me.
I'd like to find another 066/660 to put on a double end bar..... One that needs repair is fine by me.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Both of ya, come get 'em.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
I guess you could fatten it up a bit but I was like Stig. If a saw is setup it runs proper and that's that. You should be able to hear and feel that it's running right and checking the plug periodically should confirm that.
SeanKroll
Treehouser
I'm a bit tone-deaf about that, at times.
I'm wondering if I should get a double-ended bar and big mill, and run a 460 and 461 for cedar sitting in my way (about $1000), and buy an 880 or 3120, with accessory oiler and helper handle when I'm feeling more flush, winter is coming.
I can buy a GB bar now, and the mill now. Buying the Granberg package is 10-12 weeks, waiting for the custom made bar, prepaid, as the 'small company in Oregon' takes that much time.
I'm wondering if I should get a double-ended bar and big mill, and run a 460 and 461 for cedar sitting in my way (about $1000), and buy an 880 or 3120, with accessory oiler and helper handle when I'm feeling more flush, winter is coming.
I can buy a GB bar now, and the mill now. Buying the Granberg package is 10-12 weeks, waiting for the custom made bar, prepaid, as the 'small company in Oregon' takes that much time.
Raj
TreeHouser
I run 40:1 in my mix, I have a lot of used saws. In my mind it helps.
When my 088 stopped on me it really sucked milling with the 066, at least in my mind.
I'd still like to try double 066/660's.
When my 088 stopped on me it really sucked milling with the 066, at least in my mind.
I'd still like to try double 066/660's.
squisher
THE CALM ONE!!!!
I went from a 66 to a 880 on my Alaskan mill and never had to go back to the 66/660. The 880 was a massive satisfying step up from the 66 as I recall.
