milling thread

I'm seriously thinking about an Alaskan mill here. I understand from researching that they are tough work, but they seem to be the most economical way to do the odd bit of milling here and there. I don't get overwhelmed with wood I'd like to mill but there is the odd log that I'd like to be able to slab up. So I'm considering the 24" Alaskan mill. As I understand it you lose 2-3"s off each side of the log so a 24" mill should be fairly decent up to about a 30" rawlog maybe even a little bigger. Am I understanding this right?
 
Yup that is the right area. I snapped a picture because of the two LeTourneau log movers.
Yah they are cool machines, that mill site had a beehive burner as well as three in Lumby when I was a kid. Those were cool to drive by at night. The ones in Lumby I could see from my house.

So on your tour through here you took hwy#6 across to Nakusp? Wicked road to cruise over!
 
So on your tour through here you took hwy#6 across to Nakusp? Wicked road to cruise over!

Lumby to Needles, north and around then back down to Balfour. Was going to cross at there but it was raining and there was a hour and half wait for the ferry. So headed south to Nelson and on down to 3 east to put me back in the US at Bonners Ferry.
It was a very nice run through there. Maybe some day I can spend some more time in the region.

I think from what I know your take on the sizing of the Alaskan mills is right.
 
Ya, if is no mills around or only ones that want to gouge, Alaskan milling is definitely an alternative. That is how it was for me in California. I often bought Claro Walnut stumps out of Linden near Stockton, and took them back to mill up. Hated the dirt/sand embedded in the crevices, a strong pressure washer would be a good thing to have. No beating a double power head mill for larger logs, and a buddy that you like to cut with, slabs one for him and then one for me. I have handled a two headed mill myself on occasion, clamp the throttle open and then run around the other side, but should also admit that it ranks pretty high up there in the activity for fools department.

There are some self done modifications that can make a mill easier to use.
 
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Squishy, Alaskas are cheap, for a few bucks more you can get a bigger one that does small logs just fine. You will need a 42" bar for a 36" mill. Dogs get in the way and eat up length and if you clamp the tip your sprocket won't turn, ask me how I know:dur:
 
The large amount of string chips when milling can cause problems. I find it best to take off the side cover and hold the bar in place with a small block of wood that has holes drilled in it for the bar studs. The shavings blow out freely that way. Anyone Alaskan milling should look for Will Malloff's book on chainsaw lumbermaking. Currently out of print but worth the search. Often available through Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Chainsaw-Lumbermaking-Will-Malloff/dp/0918804124 Will was a milling fool if there ever was one, and much credited for developing the practice. i think he is still up in BC. Nice guy, spoke with him on the phone once.
 
i found that installing a bar that extended between the mill posts above the rollers, made it easier to get a good pressure horizontally and vertically when pushing the unit along. It also allowed for a more upright positioning for yourself. Just pushing on the saw I don't think is the ideal, and it can force you into a squatting or bent over position the whole way. It is nice to have some alternative positioning available to help reduce fatigue. I made the bar out of a large wooden dowel, attached by encased at the ends in some blocks and bolted to the posts. You need a full on throttle lock rigged up if not holding on to the saw. I also think that the bar oil that a saw puts out can be insufficient for milling, though some mills come with a separate oil tank and drip system, some don't. You can install your own oil tank and dripper. It makes for more bulk and weight on the mill, but I believe is preferable for wide milling. Heat on a chain is a big thing going on when milling. If you could extend the rollers to more contact along the length of the log, I think would be good, especially with a large mill, entering and exiting the cut would be better.

I mean a mill will work well right out of the box, so to speak, but after a long time using one, ideas can pop up. Some parts might need to be improved on. My Sperber Mill is a good one, but the thread lock on the roller elevation is plastic that breaks quite easily.
 
Even with a single powerhead mill, wide log milling can be aided by having a helper handle on the other end, usually a handle with a sprocket with a bearing underneath it, and some guards might be in place. The chain flying around in close proximity makes some people hesitant, but I think it is pretty safe. It requires someone to help. Some of the old saws like the 090 had bars that could accommodate a helper handle for when falling trees. Those handles are a good design if you could locate one. I have one, and very sturdily made, with an attached part that allows the use of both hands.
 
It will do a little better if you're not cutting directly cross grain .About 30 or so degrees which I'm not certain you could get on an Alaska type .Enough it pulls chips but not big stringy French fries .

I can't find them at the moment but I've got pictures of milling red oak with a Granberg type mill attachment with a 125 Mac cutting at about 30 degrees .It works but it's rather slow .What ever though you need a saw with some grunt .Size does matter on a mill .
 
Some mills are designed to cut at that approximate angle, as you mention, Al. On my mill, the side rollers don't make proper contact until you reach that angle, then the speed picks up. It would be something to look for when purchasing.
 
Some time ago Rich Dougan AKA Sawking on flea bay got involved in the restoration of a covered bridge in Oregon .

Who ever makes those Alaskan mills provided the saw rig and tracks and Rich the 090 Stihl for the power .They had pictures and I think a video of cutting the massive timbers from Douglas fir that I believe were over 100 feet long .

I don't remember all the specifics but for all intents it was the only practical or feasable method to cut such massive timbers .I'm sure it's on the net someplace .
 
Jay do you ever have problems with chips, bark, slivers of wood getting run over by the rollers on your Sperber mill and throwing your cut off?

I used to have that Will Malloff book, god I'd love to cut that big red cedar and fir he was cutting in his pics. I gave the book to a friend and never got it back.
One excellent idea I copied off Malloff was drilling and tapping out the bottoms of the Alaskans uprights and bolting the guide bar directly to the uprights. Sure made chain removal alot easier without removing the mill.
His hand winch idea to pull the saw was a smart idea, but I never adapted the idea seeing I like to be hands on the saw while cutting.

I once had both my 090AV and 066 on opposite ends of the bar. Cut really quick but I found having the 090 slabbing the cants and having the 066 on a smaller mill ripping the lumber off the cants was alot faster production. Might as well have 2 men doing seperate jobs rather then one.
Best 8hr day we had in 2"x6"x16' spruce was over 1000 bft [65 pieces] That includes felling ,limbing ,bucking the tree.
 
Yes, Willard, bark and whatnot sometimes gets kicked on top of the log, but it doesn't seem like a very constant thing, so just picking it off as the mill is rolling along eliminates any problem for the most part. If the cut does get buggered up for some reason, I usually backtrack and do it over, rather than have the irregularity possibly mirrored in the slabs below. A chain or bar problem where the bar wants to rise up or dive down can give you fits. Removing the bark first is the ideal, and normally you want to dry the wood free of bark anyway. One reason why having logs sit around for some time is good, easier bark removal and more stable wood. A year is a good number, it seems. I know one professional chain saw mill guy that had a rule of thumb about it. When he saw lizards darting around on his walnut logs, it meant that they were hunting bugs in the loose bark, and the logs were ready to be milled. I have never milled with 090s, but my mill came with two 076 engines. I traded it for a rocking chair, plus a little cash. Milling with two engines attached like that by yourself, is not impossible, but i wouldn't recommend it for the average homeowner. :lol:
 
I would imagine that it could be a lot harder on some model saws that others. My saws seemed to handle it just fine, and those suckers could get hot. If a saw is one of the types that has proven durability, then I don't think that there is a need for hesitation. I ran my saws hard on the mill for about eight years, and they are still hot to trot. I never even richened them up, which I think is a good recommendation.
 
My 288 can take a lot of sustained brutality and not flinch. Maybe ill try it. The saw was used daily by a logger for 7 years, and has been dragging a 32" bar in hardwood for me for around 6 years and is mechanically perfect. I had the dealer check compression just for kicks for me recently and he handed the saw back and said it was as solid as the day it left his shelf. My point being, that saw has a proven reputation of shrugging off abuse.
 
I was given an Alaskan mill but have never even tried it. Would my 066 or 288 do the trick?
No your question should be "can I do it?"............
All kidding a side, like I said my 066 can handle it no problem. Even got my 090's govenor disconnected, you just gotta keep a "little breaktone" at WOT.
 
Removing the bark first is the ideal, and normally you want to dry the wood free of bark anyway. One reason why having logs sit around for some time is good, easier bark removal and more stable wood. A year is a good number, it seems. I know one professional chain saw mill guy that had a rule of thumb about it. When he saw lizards darting around on his walnut logs, it meant that they were hunting bugs in the loose bark, and the logs were ready to be milled. lol:
I never remove my sawlogs bark because I mill right where the tree is felled. I can see a problem with dirt in the bark if you skid the logs along the ground or whatever then it'd be a good idea to strip the bark to help your chain's edge.
I find green wood mills alot easier, faster cutting and the moisture keeps the chain cooler helping eliminate some of that stretching problem. The only advantage in milling dry logs is less shrinkage in drying so you can cut your lumber to spec. But dry wood is slooooow cutting.
For the big cuts making cants with my 090 I run .404 full comp chisel chain. For cutting lumber off the cants with the 066 I go as small as 3/8 Picco chain, I always get an extra piece of lumber or two off the cant with that little chain, rips real quick and smooth too.
 
What little I've done I've tried refiled chain in several configurations of rip chain .It might have been a teeny bit smoother but it was slow as a snail .Chisel did a whole bunch smoother than a circle mill and a whole lot faster than rip chain which was good enough for what I was doing .

Besides that's what they make thickness planers for .

Now running rich .I had done some milling with the 2100 Homey and set it rich .Tom was downing a big dead oak so I thought a little race was in order forgetting totaly how I had the saw set .I'll be damned if he didn't out run me with an 066 .That never happened again .;)
 
Good advice on the milling of green material, Willard. i do find that about a year will allow enough shrinkage to yield fairly easy bark removal (species variations), and for all practical purposes, the wood will be pretty much still green inside. That little bit of initial drying with the log in restricted movement initial form, as if it died standing, will often add a nice degree of stability, is my finding. Definitely easier on the chain with the bark off, as you state. Milling totally dry logs, I don't think I have done much of that.
 
Great info. I've got a spare 66 that I was thinking of setting up just a single powerhead on, only to work a bit here and there for the odd nicer log.

I've got boatloads of wood going on. Lol.
 
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