brendonv
Tree Hugger
Ya id call direct to morbark.
Messed up bearings on chipper: VIDEO
- Thread starter NickfromWI
- Start date
- Replies 252
- Views 28K
Steve Mack
Life Member.
Yep I'd be calling Morbark. That dealer sounds like a total dickhead.
From your other thread.
From your other thread.
rskybiz
TreeHouser
45 hrs their issue. Do not pay a dime and expect or accept nothing less. I to would be calling the big office, that's something they best make right, and in a hurry!
All the best on a speedy resolution.
All the best on a speedy resolution.
Tucker943
Bamboo Plantation Owner
Go directly to Morbark. Your dealer is giving you the run around so they don't have to bother with it.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Hmm ,I wonder what is so special about that bearing to make it 400 bucks? Without seeing it I'd almost say the seals must have been faulty and failed to stop contamination from entering the bearing .
As far as grease I suppose it's a personal preference but I'd say any premium quality grease should work .I really don't have much faith in that so called water proof stuff except perhaps for a boat trailer .I doubt seriously if that chipper is ever going to be submerged in water .If it is you have more problems on your hands than just drum bearings .
As far as grease I suppose it's a personal preference but I'd say any premium quality grease should work .I really don't have much faith in that so called water proof stuff except perhaps for a boat trailer .I doubt seriously if that chipper is ever going to be submerged in water .If it is you have more problems on your hands than just drum bearings .
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #31
A $400 bearing? Maybe it hooks up via Bluetooth to tell my iPhone when to regrease.
So I contacted the warranty department at Morbark. They said that this seems like a straightforward warranty replacement, but that they had to go through the proper channels. I am optimistic that this will not end up costing me any money
They said that having us do the repair will not void my warranty. This is really better for us anyways.
They connected me to the service department so that I could ask them specifically how often to grease and with what.
The service guy was super cool and helpful. He was clear that it wasn't a hard and fast rule. They said 20 hours is fine 40 hours is fine either way. This part I already knew but he wanted to specify that it was important that I didn't put so much grease in that it started coming out of the seals. Even I knew that much
When I asked which type of grease we should be using he said that I should NOT be using moly-based EP grease. He said lithium based was way better. He recommended either Mobil brand Mobilith, Chevron Duralith, or Shell Alvania....all with the EP2 marking.
As luck would have it, I could find plenty of references to those three lubes online, but not a single vendor actually selling it or any other lithium based EP2 lube. So....that search should be interesting. I guess the good thing is that since we are getting new bearing, we have 20-40 machine hours until we have to have the new lube!
love
nick
So I contacted the warranty department at Morbark. They said that this seems like a straightforward warranty replacement, but that they had to go through the proper channels. I am optimistic that this will not end up costing me any money
They said that having us do the repair will not void my warranty. This is really better for us anyways.
They connected me to the service department so that I could ask them specifically how often to grease and with what.
The service guy was super cool and helpful. He was clear that it wasn't a hard and fast rule. They said 20 hours is fine 40 hours is fine either way. This part I already knew but he wanted to specify that it was important that I didn't put so much grease in that it started coming out of the seals. Even I knew that much
When I asked which type of grease we should be using he said that I should NOT be using moly-based EP grease. He said lithium based was way better. He recommended either Mobil brand Mobilith, Chevron Duralith, or Shell Alvania....all with the EP2 marking.
As luck would have it, I could find plenty of references to those three lubes online, but not a single vendor actually selling it or any other lithium based EP2 lube. So....that search should be interesting. I guess the good thing is that since we are getting new bearing, we have 20-40 machine hours until we have to have the new lube!
love
nick
FJR
Treehouser
Nick, I had a hard time finding a lithium EP2 grease online too so I ordered it from Morbark. We only use that grease on the feed wheel and drum bearings since it is expensive and use a much cheaper grease for the rest of the zerks.
menchhofer
TreeHouser
Tractor supply has the lithium grease in stock. Two or three different kinds. Most auto supply stores carry it also. Very common item
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #34
Link?
I found this which is odd because it says moly....but it's lithium based....too?
love
nick
I found this which is odd because it says moly....but it's lithium based....too?
love
nick
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
The definition of grease is oil with a thickening agent often refered to as "Soap ".Certain things conditions within the lubs environment can alter if it works or not .For example you never use moly grease around saltwater because it sets up like concrete .That's the only thing I can think of at the moment .
Lithium is the most common type of grease. All of the Moly greases I have seen are lithium base. Moly isn't a base it is an additive-specifically Molybdenum Di-sulfide. Most greases are oil thickened with lithium soap.....but a few are oils thickened with finely divided clay or other concoctions. I like the red and tacky EP greases -they are usually lithium based but additives help them in stay in place much better than the buttery yellow lithiums or moly greases.....but even the cheapest , plainest grease really ought to keep a chipper bearing running
lumberjack
Young man on the go
Lithium, aluminum, and calcium are the most common bases.
Do not use a moly fortified grease with bearings that have roller elements (chipper bearings for example) as it can cause the roller elements to slide than roll. Use moly in plain bearings like pins and bushings.
Do not use a moly fortified grease with bearings that have roller elements (chipper bearings for example) as it can cause the roller elements to slide than roll. Use moly in plain bearings like pins and bushings.
treesandsurf
Treehouser
So what happened with the chipper?
jp
jp
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
My chipper bearing are lubed with motor oil squirted into a little tube with a flap top. ha. No idea how old the bearing are, nor how many hours are on the machine, but it is almost as old as I am. T
SouthSoundTree
Treehouser
My chipper bearing are lubed with motor oil squirted into a little tube with a flap top. ha. No idea how old the bearing are, nor how many hours are on the machine, but it is almost as old as I am. I've had the chipper 6 years. Wayne is the manufacturer. They make a bunch of different stuff, most recently I've seen garbage trucks.
Just a fill-in derail while we wait to hear from Nick about his bearing ordeal. Maybe they don't build 'em like they used to.
Just a fill-in derail while we wait to hear from Nick about his bearing ordeal. Maybe they don't build 'em like they used to.
rskybiz
TreeHouser
Agree about make them as they use to! I have owned mine since 2004 and no bearing issues, even with blowing a j-lag out the side:eek:
Do hope for Nick's sake that all will be resolved quickly with no hard earned cash from his pockets!
https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?id=137507919625288
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #42
Sorry guys. I was at the rec climbing rendezvous for the last week.
Here ms where we are at. Got the parts. Seems super straight forward. But we're stuck.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6LKelVA8gvE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Sending the vid to the dealer. Will report back.
love
nick
Here ms where we are at. Got the parts. Seems super straight forward. But we're stuck.
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6LKelVA8gvE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Sending the vid to the dealer. Will report back.
love
nick
sawinredneck
Treehouser
You need a bigger pry bar! When those allen bolts are tightened down they create a burr on the shaft and you have to put some pressure on the bearing to move it past the burrs. That little screw driver isn't going to cut it, get a pry bar in there!
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #44
Those allen bolts dont go onto the shaft, they go through small holes in the shaft.
Could it still be that, though?
Could it still be that, though?
sawinredneck
Treehouser
This is what I'm trying to tell you! They screw down onto the shaft and create a burr on the shaft! Get two large pry bars, one on each side of the bearing and lean on them! If that doesn't work you need a puller, but being this new, I'd bet two bars will move that bearing!
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #46
Are you saying they press onto the shaft? There are threads drilled into the shaft that the Allen bolts go into.
Am I being dense?
Ok- we will try more power.
love
nick
Am I being dense?
Ok- we will try more power.
love
nick
sawinredneck
Treehouser
As you tighten those allen bolts, the tips of them dig into the shaft, this is where they get the holding power to stay on the shaft. This creates a divit in the shaft and a raised burr around the divit.
Spray it down with PB Blaster, let it soak a bit, then try to large pry bars on each side.
Spray it down with PB Blaster, let it soak a bit, then try to large pry bars on each side.
NickfromWI
King of Splices
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #48
This is where you are misunderstanding. The tips of the Allen both do not smash down onto the shaft. There are two holes drilled completely through the shaft. The Allen bolts slide into those holes
In fact, I don't even think those holes are threaded. I think they are just holes. you can feel zero resistance as you tighten the bolts.
love
nick
In fact, I don't even think those holes are threaded. I think they are just holes. you can feel zero resistance as you tighten the bolts.
love
nick
brendonv
Tree Hugger
Even pressure applied on opposite sides would probably help. Some proper tools would also help. Considering all the bolts are off, the tolerances are most likely so tight that you are binding on the opposite side you are attempting to pry it from.
Can you wash that thing already?
Can you wash that thing already?
sawinredneck
Treehouser
Sorry, Nick, I was thinking they were set screws, not through bolts! But it will still be a tight fit on the shaft, if not an interference fit. It's going to be tight to get on and off!
