Logging pics

[SeanKroll]

Barbed wedges?


Maybe what Kyle was referring to...if you plunge in about an inch or less below the center of your backcut, you can sink a wedge into that plunge cut, and one directly above it in the back-cut, and have the stacking effect without plastic on plastic. This works for three wedges, too.

 

[cory]

Hourly, which I like because I can pace myself and still make about $365 a day.

There are also the wedges with the raised arrow or angle shapes on them to reduce pop out.

 

[Buddy]

Good explanation Sean. One nice thing about this forum is all the ideas and techniques that get bounced around. It gets me to thinking outside the traditional box. 99% of the time I will probably do it the old fanshioned way but now I have new options to explore.

I forgot about those kind of wedges Cory. I believe it’s the magnesium wedge that is suppose to work well in frozen wood too. I have never used one.

 

[Gypo]

Most of the good cutters around here all use k+h. But we rarely have frozen wood.

 

[SeanKroll]

99% of the time I will probably do it the old fashioned way but now I have new options to explore.

99% of the time, the old-fashioned way is quick, easy, and effective. Doing it the new way to practice some of that 99% percent will get you ready for when its that 1% of the time.

 

[cory]

+10

 

[Burnham]

Don't forget the old trick of scattering some gritty soil or sawchips in between stacked wedges to help keep them from spitting out. Wet soil that easily turns muddy, or clay types, need not apply ...might as well use grease.

 

[SeanKroll]

Everyone has saw chips! Never thought of that.

Thanks, B for the old-school knowledge.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I wonder how well sandpaper glued to the wedges would work?

 

[Gypo]

I think it would peel off as you hit one wedge then the other.

Generally speaking I think if youre stacking wedges and having to hit them so hard that they are popping out, that you needed a better plan. Maybe a pull line, or fall the tree a different direction. Dont get me wrong, I start on trees knowing that I will have to wedge them. If I have to stack its because I misjudged the lean, not because I planned to. Most times when I stack I only have to tap on em to get the tree to go, so they dont want to pop out. If you know you have to beat on stacked wedges, sawdust between em does help.

I have on occasion had to beat on several stacks of wedges, because I was too far in from the road, with only a few trees I had to wedge, so silly to pack in jacks. Dutchmen, and push trees can also save on wedging, and I use them often when cutting, but rarely around houses.

When working around houses a line beats wedges everytime, and its silly not to use one if you have the option.

Just my .02

 

[MasterBlaster]

How about spraying it with adhesive and pouring sand all over it?

You'd think someone would invent a wedge that was "grabby."

 

[SeanKroll]

There are barbed wedges. Pound in, but not pop back out. If you're beating hard enough, you'll end up flattening the barbs.

 

[Raj]

I like old cutting boards for stacking, but I don't do big trees.

 

[treebilly]

I need to do that Peter. My wife is not gonna be happy when she gets home though. Maybe I?ll just wait a bit and buy her some new ones for Valentine?s Day or something

 

[flushcut]

IKEA cutting boards or Dollar Store cutting boards best bang for the buck. I gotta try some magnesium wedges had a few spit out today the bigger oaks and ash were fine but smallish oaks and sugar maple spit them out.

 

[Burnham]

Those "barbed" wedges sorta work when the barbs are against wood, but stacked not at all, plastic wedge to wedge surfaces.

Sawchips or grit is way better.

And hear me...three or even four separate wedge sets kept fairly equally loaded will help keep any individual set from spitting out, since the load on any one set is minimized.

Take your time and do it careful and smart.

 

[SeanKroll]

There are ones with barbs on one side. Is that what you're talking about, B? My use is limited with them.

Fully agree on multiple sets. At State Parks we were regularly beating trees over, big or small. Since we didn't do clean up, we didn't set ropes very often, then have to cut them out from under trees. Almost never.

Willie showed an interesting picture. It was having one layer on a diagonal to another layer of wedges.

We would tend to beat many wedges or many stacks, while the other crew did a lot of walloping on one.

 

[Burnham]

Right, Sean. The barbs are on one side only, at least so far as I have seen. But that doesn't keep any fool of a faller from paying no attention at all thereto .

 

[chris_girard]

One way that you can avoid having to stack multiple wedges directly on top of each other is to bore cut a couple of slots 1" below where you plan on driving the first wedge in your backcut and then slowly drive each one in as you make your backcut. What happens is the vertical grain in the 1" pieces of wood will split out allowing the necessary lift without the wedges ever splitting out. I can 3 wedges stacked vertically this way ever time without issues.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Clever!

 

[Merle Nelson]

Barbed wedges?


Maybe what Kyle was referring to...if you plunge in about an inch or less below the center of your backcut, you can sink a wedge into that plunge cut, and one directly above it in the back-cut, and have the stacking effect without plastic on plastic. This works for three wedges, too.

Oops. Gotta read this whole thread soon.

 

[Buddy]

Mamma said there'd be days like this...

 

[treebilly]

Yup. Kinda neat to see the snow cloud when you drop em though. On the other end, it makes it damn hard to see what’s coming down with it. Keep a heads up and stay safe Shawn.

 

[FireFighterZero]

Looks like that real fun frozen type rain.

 

[cory]

Mamma said there'd be days like this...

That is a great post and pic imo.