its time for me to upgrade my style.

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True, but that biner wouldn't stand up to being thrown to the ground with a log on top of it all that well.

Nonetheless, if it was me, and I HAD to rap that way, I'd sacrifice the biner rather that go rope on rope.

I only need that for the top drawer, Stig. I can manage the lower ones, barely.
:D
 
Greg, I like the smaller slic-pin better.(sorry) The RW is big and bulky enough without making it more so. The little locking catch is large enough to prevent the pin from falling out while you are setting the rope. But I do know that some people really like the larger pin so you should be fine with it.

Dave

100_4196-1.jpg
 
Dave, where did you get that?



I saw someone changed all the bolts on their RW with some that have an inset hex or allen spot, rather than an external hex. Anybody know about this? I don't remember where I saw it. Possibly on that other forum place.
 
Dave, that set-up looks so sleek.

All mechanical, which is totally against what I normally go with, but I'm really looking forward to hearing from you, once you've spent some time working that combination.
 
stig said:
Dave, that set-up looks so sleek.

All mechanical, which is totally against what I normally go with, but I'm really looking forward to hearing from you, once you've spent some time working that combination.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Stig.

As proud as I am of the traditional doubled rope systems that have allowed me to accomplish anything and everything I have needed to do in my climbing career, when I handle and use the things that are now available, all I can think is, shit I sure could have put this to better use 40 years ago.

Dave
 
I'm rocking the larger of the two pins Greg and I like it. Got it before Kevin found the slic pin. Dad's getting a RW here soon, so I'm gonna throw a slic pin in with his order to try out. When I talked to Luke though he said most people like the larger pin.
 
I don't get, by looking at it, how the slick pin is easily extracted and how you would tether it to the RW to keep from dropping it. Let me know how that goes Adrian. I have not bought my RW yet, but it looks like it will be sooner than later now.
 
Probably no tether needed, like so many other things that go untethered up there. Just a matter of slip the pin out, remove the rope from the RW, and slip it back in until ready to redeploy.
 
Fingernail or not, you shouldn't have to completely remove it to get your rope into the wrench.
 
Stephen, yes, you just push down on that little tooth. A fingernail works great but I can do it with my climbing gloves on also. Once released the pin will again catch on the outer plate and not fall out. You then slip the rope past it and click it closed. After you get the hang of it it works pretty well.

Dave
 
OK that explains it. Pin just rests in the outer hole AHA! Just was having a hard time wrapping my pea brain around it. WHat about 1/2 rope? Would it be harder to get past the pin?
 
I found myself yesterday with a good reason to buy the pin. That slic-pin is slick. I've not been excited about the bulky push button types that can easily tangle.

I am climbing on a one-end spliced eye Poison Hyvee. After transferring to an adjacent tree, I would have like to be able to disconnect the RW midline, as I was choked around the truck over a single branch in a doug-fir, with a throwline attached, and would have liked to pull the rope toward the original tree, rather than the other way around.

As well, it would be easy to disconnect the RW to change over from SRT to DdRT to lower off of a natural crotch on a spar on a removal, as I was doing yesterday.

Sometimes good things come to those who wait, I guess.
 
I haven't tried full 1/2" rope yet but 11.5mm is a tight squeeze so I would guess larger would be a struggle. I don't climb on 1/2" rope any more but I have some Arbor-Master BRW that I use for rigging. I'll see if it fits.

Dave
 
Burnham said:
Ok...Burnham has seen this :lol:.

No matter how careful you are with this rope on rope tie in Paul, it's waaaaay off the reservation, as you seem to be well aware. And yet you persist, and I cannot fathom why.

Not when there is an easy way to do the same thing far more safely, if we ignore that mixing rigging lines and life support lines is just about as far off the rez as the other thing...:).

All you need to carry extra is a single steel rigging ring. After you set the pull line, just girth hitch the ring on that line under the running bowline and tie your DRT system through that. Work the spar the same as you've been doing with the rope loop, except you don't have to be so cautious on the raps. Groundie doesn't need to do anything to the ring when he unties the piece he's just pulled over...just send the pull rope back up and you're in business again.

Make sense?
Click to expand...

I'm a day or two late getting in on this discussion, but I have a question pertaining to the scenario you describe, Burnham. Why not just use a figure-8 and descend the same rope you tie at the top until you reach the point where you are going to make the next cut, set safety, set 2nd tie-in, unclip from 8, make cut...repeat....I'm just wondering why the need to descend Drt for a few feet just to make another cut? :?
 
I understand that, but I must confess, if I trust a rigging line to hold a 500# chunk, I trust it to hold me whist I rappel straight down a spar, especially while using a lanyard in conjunction with it.

In other words, I consider simply rappelling down a few feet to be a different story than actually working off a rigging line.
 
I'll lower down a pull line on a spar while keeping my flipline tight enough, in conjunction with my spurs, to catch me if somehow the rope were to break under my 200# load, and never, ever pull over a spar with my lifeline. As an owner, I feel this is reasonable. For employees, safe is not necessarily legal.
 
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