Is or isn't?

[SkwerI]

The center is not supposed to be loose. Sounds like you need a new bar. That one is broke.

 

[woodworkingboy]

That would explain it. It isn't mine, but I did feel sorry enough for the owner to offer to get him a new bar and chains from the states, save him some money.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Jay, they're GREAT. They can bend way more than a regular bar and return to true.

 

[woodworkingboy]

That is really interesting, what you guys think about them. I should get him a new one then, and one for myself too. Wonder how that center part got so beat? A pry bar does come to mind....

 

[Al Smith]

If I'm not mistaken I have one of those,a 12 inch ,on the 200 I souped up .It was bent though,one of Toms' discards . As it is though I don't put enough hours on that or any other saw for that matter to tender a judgement of aye or nay if they are any good or not .

 

[brendonv]

I love those lite bars, sure can tell a difference when picking up a saw without it. Tip heavy.

 

[sotc]

16" B?

 

[OTGBOSTON]

I love those lite bars, sure can tell a difference when picking up a saw without it. Tip heavy.

Me four.

 

[sotc]

16" Brendon?

Bump

 

[SkwerI]

Willie, they come in 12", 14" and 16". I don't have the parts numbers handy but you should be able to find them on Stihl's website.

 

[sotc]

Ya, just wondering which felt tip heavy. 14 feels perfectly balanced to me with a standard bar

 

[brendonv]

Sorry,

I'm comparing a 14", lite vs standard.

I tried a 16" non lite on Dave's saw. Terrible IMO.

 

[Al Smith]

I have a 16" that fits a 200T but I've never used it .Brand new hanging on a nail with the rest of them .To me at least a standard 14" is a perfect balance on that saw but then again I don't use it dailey .

 

[woodworkingboy]

A little problem suddenly popped up with the saw...

The stop switch doesn't kill the engine, it still runs like it is in the on position, but after flipping the switch to off, then pointing the bar downwards, after a couple seconds it quits. If you don't point it downward it just keeps running and you have to choke it to get it to stop. The metal strip thing makes good strong contact with the kill wire when the switch is off, it isn't misaligned or anything. Pressing down on the strip doesn't help. Odd, it sure has me stumped....any ideas? Guess I should take a look at the coil end of it, if there is something to see? Thanks.

Awesome saw by the way, a real aggressive little cutter.

 

[Chisel Tooth]

Be sure that the kill wire is attached to the coil, and that all connections are good, you may need to do a continuity test to be sure you have a good ground all the way to the coil. Let us know what you find.

 

[sawinredneck]

Makes me wonder if the connector on the coil is loose maybe?

 

[woodworkingboy]

Thanks guys, I'll check it out today.

 

[Al Smith]

I don't know how the rear handled model is but if I'm not mistaken the T model had a ground bonding jumper in the forward portion of the handle .If that gets loose you could lose your connection to engine ground .Back in a sec ,I'll try to take a look see on the IPL ..

 

[Al Smith]

According to the IPL that bottom wire on the switch with the brass gizmo on it should some how connect to engine ground .Looks to me like it threads though the handle about like the T model .

 

[HolmenTree]

Look at the IPL I sent you and see if the parts in your hand match the image.

View attachment 28249

Hey Brian thanks for the IPL info. If you look at the bottom #s you see the .325 setup is available for the MS200. Now I can run .325 chisel chain on my MS200T just like I have done to my Husky 338XPT.

Willard.

 

[woodworkingboy]

Thanks for checking, Al. It's the same set-up on the rear handle. The brass sleeve on the wire at the switch contacts the thin metal strip that is connected to the ground wire, that should kill the engine. I checked again, all the contacts are good it appears, and the kill wire at the coil is well connected as well. I can only figure that there must be something going on with the ground wire, since even when pressing down on the metal strip to contact the brass thingy, it doesn't kill it. With the switch off, shaking the saw doesn't stop the engine, or turning it on it's side, but as soon as you point the bar downward, the engine stops immediately. Starts fine and runs fine, just won't stop properly....darndest thing. Guess I'll pull off the coil and see if the ground wire gets more exposed for a better look.

 

[SkwerI]

Willard, if you need the IPL just holler. Or look for Gary's thread posted about 3 days ago, he put up a link to a website with a bunch of Stihl IPLs.

 

[Chisel Tooth]

Like I said in an earilier post you my need to do a continuity to see if the wires are good, this will tell you if the circut is complete. Sometimes the connection inside the module comes loose, and it has to be replaced, or you have to choke it out to kill it.

 

[High Scale]

Strange muffler on those saws....thin elongated thing. I couldn't help but do a little grinding on it a bit after taking it apart, gives a little easier flow at the exit. Beech to get the gasket in place when reinstalling it.

If you take the exhaust off again, use a dab of grease to keep the gasket in place when you refit the exhaust.

 

[Al Smith]

What I don't remember is exactly where that ground bonding jumper attaches to the actual engine . You might try a temporary jumber and see if that fixes it .That being the case it almost has to that main jumper . Like an aligator clamp to a screw or something you know is grounded to the engine . Well then I suppose it could be the wire from the coil too come to think of it .

I doubt it would apply but once on one of my Stihl saws somehow the coil wire got pinched, probabley before I owned it .It looked solid but the conductor got seperated within .It took a while to sort that one out .