yes, I call it a progressive raker guide, as the tooth wears back, the amount taken off the raker progressivly increases past the inital amount most non progressive guides allow.My take is that it's cutting a narrower kerf, and can take a thicker chip.
Definitely do not want a chattery chain.
Anyone else change the raker offset through the life of the chain?
I really like how a well worn chain cuts, the narrow kerf seems to speed it up, its a dissapointment when I put on a new chain, as its slower, and look forward to putting a file to it after a few tanks, or when needed to get it to suit what im cutting better.The narrower the kerf, the greater the need for a straight cutting chain.
If I'm temporarily fighting a j-cut, reaming helps.
1/4 chain is so small, and the cutters so short and small, you dont get much life from them sadly, add to that the joy of bumpers on the chain, and its a royal pain in the butt, I prefer my 3/8p on older pole saws to the newer 1/4 chain, fine when its new, but it just dosent last.It's the problem with the ms150. The chain can barely reach its end's life due to a too thin kerf. When the cutters are well reduced, they become just a tad wider than the rivets. Add some wear on the bar's groove and it can't no longer cut over 2". I tried to push the live length of the chain by reducing the filling angle near the end (keeping the full width of the cutters until breaking them). Bad idea. The chain with straighter cutters (like a ripping chain) doesn't sway as much side to side and carves an even thiner kerf and locks in the wood. So I ditched the idea and at the contrary, enhanced the cutting angle over the 30° for the next ones at their end and that helped on the binding. Maybe less live, but still fully useful and less irritating.
They buy a new chain after sharpening it 2 or 3 times if any. You'd impress a lot of pros running a chain filed down anywhere near the guide marks and have it cut well, because they think it's time to throw away a chain at 2/3 to 1/2 life, probably because they never file the depth gauges, but by then the teeth are too messed up.So much good info here I wish I knew sooner or didn’t have to learn through trial and error! How do large tree companies teach all those new people how to sharpen chains and they actually do it well? I have 2-3 people at a time and it seems impossible to get them to understand all of this. I feel like i need a teaching manual on all of this with LOTS of pictures lol
I clipped a nail head the other day, just barely, on one side only, between the two facecut kerfs.I really like how a well worn chain cuts, the narrow kerf seems to speed it up, its a dissapointment when I put on a new chain, as its slower, and look forward to putting a file to it after a few tanks, or when needed to get it to suit what im cutting better.
if its J cutting, the chain will cut and bow towards the sharper side, so look at the other side, and check the corners of the cutters, to make sure any damage has been corrected fully by filing away whats needed, not just number of strokes, and then set the rakers and try it.
Again, assuming the bar is ok.
Knowing how to manipulate a grinder to do what you want regardless of it's quality goes a long way.When heavy grinding is needed to correct damage/human error. What is a good grinder that’s not $1000? We only use round ground chain 3/8lp, .325, and 3/8