Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #401
Solid zinger, sir. I literally laughed out loud. Nice to see you around these parts!
I (Think/Hope) I Developed A New Hitch Design
- Thread starter Knotorious
- Start date
- Replies 800
- Views 32K
I think this one will be prone to jamming, 2c
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #404
@Bermy You're breaking my heart with your logic! Don't say things that make sense! It's unbecoming of a lady! (Just kidding of course) You might be right about that. I didn't encounter any in my testing, but that doesn't preclude it from happening. Perhaps I'll test it a little harder before releasing it to the world with my username attached to it. I appreciate your insight and respect your opinoin enough to continue testing on this hitch to assess this risk.
I'm 35 years old and the farthest thing from "woke" and neither am I driven by ignorance. I like to think I am a wolf among the sheeple. I distill and reflux and recrystallize (etc.) various compounds in my free time instead of pondering whether or not I can menstruate as a man. Just don't tell the federal government. They aren't a fan of clandestine organic chemistry, though, it isn't illegal and nothing I'm producing is illicit. At least that's what my lawyer told me to say.The fact that you know what a perpetuum mobile is, gives me hope for the American education system, which according to some, seems to spend its time teaching kids how to change their gender
EDIT: It's exciting to see you both active in my thread! Keep coming! =-D
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #405
@Bermy I just reread my message to you and this time it sounded almost like I was suggesting that women shouldn't say things that make sense (jokingly). That's not how I intended for that to come across. I was just saying random silliness at an attempt at humor. I hope you weren't offended. I'm not a misogynist and I wouldn't even pretend to be one for the sake of humor. Apologies nonetheless. Maybe I'm the only person who read it that way. I certainly didn't read it that way yesterday when I posted it, otherwise I would have removed that third sentence.
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #407
Since I'm trying to take a bit of a break to allow my YouTube channel to catch up to my thread on The Tree House forum, this thread may be somewhat inactive for awhile. I'll try and think of unique ways to entertain all of you without divulging new hitches! Here's something new: In my first week on YouTube as an advertising partner, I made roughly $7.75. So I made just over a dollar per day for doing something I love. If this trend were to continue, I would make $403 this year! Obviously it's only been the first week, but I did better than I thought i would! I am certain that over time, as my viewership and subscriber amount increases, so will my revenue! Just wanted to share that with you all! Don't hate! Appreciate! 
EDIT: *first week, not month
EDIT: *first week, not month
Last edited:
gf beranek
Old Schooler
Excellent.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #410
@Ryan That's awesome news to hear! I'm so glad that it is serving you well. There's nothing better than when someone other than myself takes the time and energy to test out one of my hitches. I love getting feedback, even if it's negative! My absolute favorite part about operating a YouTube channel is tending to the comments section, where I can answer a myriad of different questions and/or offer suggestions and/or receive recommendations and constructive criticisms. Anyways, I really appreciate what you did and that you're running one of my hitches in real life situations. You've made my day!
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #411
Okay, breaking news...I know I said I would try to hold off on sharing new hitches, but f*ck it.
Alright, so what is so exciting that I couldn't hold back? I introduce to you the PrecisionSRS hitch! It is designed to allow the operator to ascend and descend on a stationary rope without the aid of additional hardware such as rings or rope wrenches. The tying methods for these types of hitches predominantly have something in common: one or two of the legs, at some point, create a circle, with strands that eventually pull the rope into that circle to create an area of high resistance or friction, alleviating tension on the coils above them. This is not always the case, but it appears to be the prevailing model as far as what I've seen, personally, which is maybe only 6 different hitches of this nature.
My hitch uses the method and it does so beautifully. Notice how the friction strands inside of the circle creates a crisscross of hitch cord. I've never seen that. I'm not informed enough to say that it hasn't been done before. This is a surprisingly intuitive to tie hitch and, after tying it anywhere from 3-6 time, the experienced hitch tier will pick it up quickly. For a newer hitch tier, this may take several tries in order to master, so this is likely not for the beginner. But don't let that deter you from trying if you are a beginner, because that's how you improve your craft. Anyways, once again...zero testing has been done on this hitch as of yet, but I think it is promising.
Also exciting: I have another hitch designed to work stationary rope which I will share with you all soon.
Here is a picture of both the front (left) and back (right). Part of me just wanted to get it on here as public proof that I came up with it first before the other four or five other people on this planet competing for hitch cord notoriety discover it.
Haha, I may be in one of the least popular competitions in the world, but competition is fierce! haha No, actually, it isn't. =-P
EDIT: Definitely not saying that designing hitches is all about competition. It's not. It's more about advancing climbing systems and making forward progress as far as hitch tying is concerned.
Alright, so what is so exciting that I couldn't hold back? I introduce to you the PrecisionSRS hitch! It is designed to allow the operator to ascend and descend on a stationary rope without the aid of additional hardware such as rings or rope wrenches. The tying methods for these types of hitches predominantly have something in common: one or two of the legs, at some point, create a circle, with strands that eventually pull the rope into that circle to create an area of high resistance or friction, alleviating tension on the coils above them. This is not always the case, but it appears to be the prevailing model as far as what I've seen, personally, which is maybe only 6 different hitches of this nature.
My hitch uses the method and it does so beautifully. Notice how the friction strands inside of the circle creates a crisscross of hitch cord. I've never seen that. I'm not informed enough to say that it hasn't been done before. This is a surprisingly intuitive to tie hitch and, after tying it anywhere from 3-6 time, the experienced hitch tier will pick it up quickly. For a newer hitch tier, this may take several tries in order to master, so this is likely not for the beginner. But don't let that deter you from trying if you are a beginner, because that's how you improve your craft. Anyways, once again...zero testing has been done on this hitch as of yet, but I think it is promising.
Also exciting: I have another hitch designed to work stationary rope which I will share with you all soon.
Here is a picture of both the front (left) and back (right). Part of me just wanted to get it on here as public proof that I came up with it first before the other four or five other people on this planet competing for hitch cord notoriety discover it.
Haha, I may be in one of the least popular competitions in the world, but competition is fierce! haha No, actually, it isn't. =-P
EDIT: Definitely not saying that designing hitches is all about competition. It's not. It's more about advancing climbing systems and making forward progress as far as hitch tying is concerned.
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #412
If this wall of text is unsettling to you, don't fret! I've summarized everything at the TL;DR at the bottom! This is admittedly a bit of a rant, but I tried to take some time to help people who are newer to climbing and new to testing hitches at home to understand some important safety considerations, as well as to report my latest test results.
I finally had the testicular fortitude plus enough inspiration to gather all of my relevant climbing gear and to venture out into the 108 degree heat. I installed my Teufelberger XStatic line into a nice, thick limb that I do most of my tests on which is probably only about 20 feet up, which is plenty for the purposes of demonstrating and testing. After I have gotten the line over, I create a canopy anchor with just an Alpine Butterfly; sometimes with a Notch Quickie. At this point, I do whatever I sought to do.
Because this hitch is an SRS/SRT hitch, I have to test it without a rope wrench. I tested two different SRS/SRT hitches this afternoon. After tying the hitch, I clipped into it directly. In order to ascend, I used my foot ascender to ascend my foot on the rope (which was weighted down with throwing weights), shift my weight to my foot, pull myself up and then ascend the hitch manually AKA a Sit-Stand method.
For anyone new to testing hitches, whether they are my hitches, your hitches, or the hitches that are currently most popular today, it is important to take mind of some important safety considerations. Typically, if you're testing with a rope wrench, it's not going to be likely that your hitch will jam; the same is true for any hitch you test as part of an MRS/DDRT setup. But what is your backup plan for if you're testing an SRS/SRT hitch, which is designed to work without the use of hardware to alleviate undesirable tension...and suddenly you find yourself well above the ground, unable to break the hitch?
There are a multitude of methods for "backing up" your climbs while you test hitches. In fact, even for hitches that make use of a rope wrench or MRS/DDRT, it is advisable to have a backup plan. When it comes to SRS/SRT hitches (this time I'm speaking of ANY hitch used on a stationary rope system), my suggestion for testing on a single rope (versus an access line and a backup line) is to always use a foot ascender whenever possible. This will allow a gear-conservative means of ascending the rope and it will also allow you a means of descent should the hitch bind. Simply shift your weight to your foot and raise the hitch enough to that it slides freely and then use your free hand to slide the hitch lower than it was before, but not so far that you end up tilting upside down when you shift your weight back onto the hitch. Repeating these steps will get you safely to the ground, but you'll look and feel foolish.
Another way you can descend is to use a length of cordelette to tie a prusik above the bound up hitch and then connect a figure 8 device below the hitch. Connect the figure 8 to your bridge. Use the other end of the cordelette to tie a Munter Mule Overhand (MMO) at the top, larger hole of the FIgure 8. Make sure that your FIgure 8 is locked off.Use your foot ascender or tie a foot loops (alpine butterfly or overhand on a bight, inline figure 8, etc( or footlock or use a prusik to make a foot loop to shift your weight to the whatever foothold you are using, then slide the cordelette prusik up until you are now hanging from the cordelette (which is holding the FIgure 8 which is connected to your bridge and not the original, bound up hitch anymore. Take this opportunity to disconnect from the bound hitch, untie it, stow it on your harness. Finally, carefully until the Munter Mule Overhand and slowly let the Figure 8 settle with all of your weight on the climb line. Untie the MMO, undo the lock off on your Figure 8 and descend to the ground (after removing whatever foot ascent method you chose, if you chose a foot loop knot).
Phew, that might be a bit too complicated for most users, but knowing this technique doesn't hurt. The better way to test new hitches safely is to use two different ropes; a primary access line and a secondary line. This makes life so much easier. This way, all you need to do is (ideally with two bridges, but one will work just fine) use your throwline to pull two different ropes, or even both sides of one long rope, up over your tie in point (TIP) and now you can create two canopy anchors (even with two ends of one rope this is possible) or, if basal anchors tickle your fancy more, then by all means...go for it.
At this point the number of ways you can back your climb up with this second rope are endless, but I would recommend that you use a) literally any multicender will work: Zig Zag w/ Chicane, Rope Runner Pro, Akimbo, Unicender, etc, b) descenders such as the Petzl Rig or GriGri, c) a Rope Wrench with a hitch you trust, d) a Figure 8/Rescue 8 descender with third hand, etc.
I am fully aware that most of the people on here are more than capable of testing a hitch safely and correctly. Most of you are certainly aware of all of these techniques and, similarly, most of you have no real need for this information because you're using hitches that date back to the Jurassic period which are effectively trusted implicitly in the the tree climbing world (aka Distel, Michoacán, Knut, VT, Blakes, Tautline, etc) and, consequently, testing results are pretty reliable and predictable. Anyways, the reason why I'm writing this lengthy dissertation on techniques for safely testing hitches is because not everyone who reads this thread, or any thread on here for that matter, is as qualified as a lot of you. I'm certainly no expert, but I'm confident in saying I know more than many of the newer viewers of this forum that likely lurk in the shadows. I think it's great when we all can talk and use industry standard terminology and throw out acronyms and we all easily understand what's being said. But I have always made it my purpose to focus on explaining ideas and concepts and techniques in ways that can be understood by those individuals who are completely new to tree climbing and tree work. Did I accomplish that tonight? Well, I hope so. I tried not to assume that everyone will understand what goes into safely testing hitches.
Anyways, getting back to my tests, one of the hitches bound up and I couldn't break it, so I had to bail. I tried it again with less wraps and I nearly plummeted to the ground, but lifted up the small coil just in time to engage it. Hitches are super needy in my opinion. I have developed a habit of manually engaging my hitches whenever and wherever possible. It certainly cain't hurt. Anyways, then I tested the second hitch (which is the hitch up in the previous post's picture) and...
...it worked BEAUTIFULLY! I intentionally tried to get it to bind by repeatedly ascending and descending on the rope, but it was unfazed. After a few ups and downs, I could tell that there was a lot of friction in that coil; you could hear it. But it continued to work every time. Once again, this hitch works SRS/SRT without any additional hardware; it works as is, hitch only, which is pretty spectacular. It absolutely made my day. I had honestly predicted that the other hitch would have worked, not the one that did work. But I'm not done testing the other hitch; it may function better if I tie it differently; perhaps looser.
TL;DR - I went out into the 108 degree heat to test two new hitches. One ended up binding, but the other hitch (the hitch pictured in the previous post, and below) performed beautifully! I did my best to make it bind with multiple ups and downs, but it worked every time. This was one of my SRT/SRS hitches, which work as is, without the need for any added hardware. In the block of text above, I did my best to share my wisdom regarding how to best test hitches and suggested that anyone testing a new hitch for the first time have a backup plan in case the hitch binds up so badly that it locks the climber where they are. A foot ascender is the ideal backup tool and sometimes it makes sense to have a secondary climb line installed with a device that allows descent. I'm super excited about the results and I'll continue to try and make the other hitch function. Below is a picture of the hitch that performed very well, my "PrecisionSRS" hitch.
If anyone thinks I write too much in my posts...I have to be honest...that sounds like a you problem. Just throwing that out there for any naysayers in the crowd.
I finally had the testicular fortitude plus enough inspiration to gather all of my relevant climbing gear and to venture out into the 108 degree heat. I installed my Teufelberger XStatic line into a nice, thick limb that I do most of my tests on which is probably only about 20 feet up, which is plenty for the purposes of demonstrating and testing. After I have gotten the line over, I create a canopy anchor with just an Alpine Butterfly; sometimes with a Notch Quickie. At this point, I do whatever I sought to do.
Because this hitch is an SRS/SRT hitch, I have to test it without a rope wrench. I tested two different SRS/SRT hitches this afternoon. After tying the hitch, I clipped into it directly. In order to ascend, I used my foot ascender to ascend my foot on the rope (which was weighted down with throwing weights), shift my weight to my foot, pull myself up and then ascend the hitch manually AKA a Sit-Stand method.
For anyone new to testing hitches, whether they are my hitches, your hitches, or the hitches that are currently most popular today, it is important to take mind of some important safety considerations. Typically, if you're testing with a rope wrench, it's not going to be likely that your hitch will jam; the same is true for any hitch you test as part of an MRS/DDRT setup. But what is your backup plan for if you're testing an SRS/SRT hitch, which is designed to work without the use of hardware to alleviate undesirable tension...and suddenly you find yourself well above the ground, unable to break the hitch?
There are a multitude of methods for "backing up" your climbs while you test hitches. In fact, even for hitches that make use of a rope wrench or MRS/DDRT, it is advisable to have a backup plan. When it comes to SRS/SRT hitches (this time I'm speaking of ANY hitch used on a stationary rope system), my suggestion for testing on a single rope (versus an access line and a backup line) is to always use a foot ascender whenever possible. This will allow a gear-conservative means of ascending the rope and it will also allow you a means of descent should the hitch bind. Simply shift your weight to your foot and raise the hitch enough to that it slides freely and then use your free hand to slide the hitch lower than it was before, but not so far that you end up tilting upside down when you shift your weight back onto the hitch. Repeating these steps will get you safely to the ground, but you'll look and feel foolish.
Another way you can descend is to use a length of cordelette to tie a prusik above the bound up hitch and then connect a figure 8 device below the hitch. Connect the figure 8 to your bridge. Use the other end of the cordelette to tie a Munter Mule Overhand (MMO) at the top, larger hole of the FIgure 8. Make sure that your FIgure 8 is locked off.Use your foot ascender or tie a foot loops (alpine butterfly or overhand on a bight, inline figure 8, etc( or footlock or use a prusik to make a foot loop to shift your weight to the whatever foothold you are using, then slide the cordelette prusik up until you are now hanging from the cordelette (which is holding the FIgure 8 which is connected to your bridge and not the original, bound up hitch anymore. Take this opportunity to disconnect from the bound hitch, untie it, stow it on your harness. Finally, carefully until the Munter Mule Overhand and slowly let the Figure 8 settle with all of your weight on the climb line. Untie the MMO, undo the lock off on your Figure 8 and descend to the ground (after removing whatever foot ascent method you chose, if you chose a foot loop knot).
Phew, that might be a bit too complicated for most users, but knowing this technique doesn't hurt. The better way to test new hitches safely is to use two different ropes; a primary access line and a secondary line. This makes life so much easier. This way, all you need to do is (ideally with two bridges, but one will work just fine) use your throwline to pull two different ropes, or even both sides of one long rope, up over your tie in point (TIP) and now you can create two canopy anchors (even with two ends of one rope this is possible) or, if basal anchors tickle your fancy more, then by all means...go for it.
At this point the number of ways you can back your climb up with this second rope are endless, but I would recommend that you use a) literally any multicender will work: Zig Zag w/ Chicane, Rope Runner Pro, Akimbo, Unicender, etc, b) descenders such as the Petzl Rig or GriGri, c) a Rope Wrench with a hitch you trust, d) a Figure 8/Rescue 8 descender with third hand, etc.
I am fully aware that most of the people on here are more than capable of testing a hitch safely and correctly. Most of you are certainly aware of all of these techniques and, similarly, most of you have no real need for this information because you're using hitches that date back to the Jurassic period which are effectively trusted implicitly in the the tree climbing world (aka Distel, Michoacán, Knut, VT, Blakes, Tautline, etc) and, consequently, testing results are pretty reliable and predictable. Anyways, the reason why I'm writing this lengthy dissertation on techniques for safely testing hitches is because not everyone who reads this thread, or any thread on here for that matter, is as qualified as a lot of you. I'm certainly no expert, but I'm confident in saying I know more than many of the newer viewers of this forum that likely lurk in the shadows. I think it's great when we all can talk and use industry standard terminology and throw out acronyms and we all easily understand what's being said. But I have always made it my purpose to focus on explaining ideas and concepts and techniques in ways that can be understood by those individuals who are completely new to tree climbing and tree work. Did I accomplish that tonight? Well, I hope so. I tried not to assume that everyone will understand what goes into safely testing hitches.
Anyways, getting back to my tests, one of the hitches bound up and I couldn't break it, so I had to bail. I tried it again with less wraps and I nearly plummeted to the ground, but lifted up the small coil just in time to engage it. Hitches are super needy in my opinion. I have developed a habit of manually engaging my hitches whenever and wherever possible. It certainly cain't hurt. Anyways, then I tested the second hitch (which is the hitch up in the previous post's picture) and...
...it worked BEAUTIFULLY! I intentionally tried to get it to bind by repeatedly ascending and descending on the rope, but it was unfazed. After a few ups and downs, I could tell that there was a lot of friction in that coil; you could hear it. But it continued to work every time. Once again, this hitch works SRS/SRT without any additional hardware; it works as is, hitch only, which is pretty spectacular. It absolutely made my day. I had honestly predicted that the other hitch would have worked, not the one that did work. But I'm not done testing the other hitch; it may function better if I tie it differently; perhaps looser.
TL;DR - I went out into the 108 degree heat to test two new hitches. One ended up binding, but the other hitch (the hitch pictured in the previous post, and below) performed beautifully! I did my best to make it bind with multiple ups and downs, but it worked every time. This was one of my SRT/SRS hitches, which work as is, without the need for any added hardware. In the block of text above, I did my best to share my wisdom regarding how to best test hitches and suggested that anyone testing a new hitch for the first time have a backup plan in case the hitch binds up so badly that it locks the climber where they are. A foot ascender is the ideal backup tool and sometimes it makes sense to have a secondary climb line installed with a device that allows descent. I'm super excited about the results and I'll continue to try and make the other hitch function. Below is a picture of the hitch that performed very well, my "PrecisionSRS" hitch.
If anyone thinks I write too much in my posts...I have to be honest...that sounds like a you problem. Just throwing that out there for any naysayers in the crowd.
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #413
Last night I cut a 6 foot segment of Sterling RIT hitch cord out from a 10 foot hank, which meant that the remaining 4 feet wouldn't be useful to me as a hitch cord. Too short by at least one foot. I decided I wasn't going to see it go to waste, so I decided to put it to good use. I've needed a cell phone holder for my phone for when I'm in the trees. Carrying it in my pocket doesn't work very well. Once I pull the phone out, it's impossible to get back in because of the leg strap with all of my weight on it. I decided it would be pretty sweet to make a phone holster out of an RIT hitch cord, which is also my favorite hitch cord of all time. I quickly came up with a workable design and then set to work sewing every tack that I needed. I also used 4mm paracord for the latch loop, a DMM XSRE carabiner for the latch and a short length of Bee Line hitch cord for the harness connection loop. It only took me a couple of hours of on and off work to complete it.
I realize that it isn't mind blowing or anything, but I thought the idea was pretty clever and the finished product works beautifully. I'm honestly pretty proud of it. Check out the pictures in the attachments below and let me know what you all think!
I realize that it isn't mind blowing or anything, but I thought the idea was pretty clever and the finished product works beautifully. I'm honestly pretty proud of it. Check out the pictures in the attachments below and let me know what you all think!
Attachments
Last edited:
Burnham
Woods walker
If this wall of text is unsettling to you, don't fret! I've summarized everything at the TL;DR at the bottom! This is admittedly a bit of a rant, but I tried to take some time to help people who are newer to climbing and new to testing hitches at home to understand some important safety considerations, as well as to report my latest test results.
I finally had the testicular fortitude plus enough inspiration to gather all of my relevant climbing gear and to venture out into the 108 degree heat. I installed my Teufelberger XStatic line into a nice, thick limb that I do most of my tests on which is probably only about 20 feet up, which is plenty for the purposes of demonstrating and testing. After I have gotten the line over, I create a canopy anchor with just an Alpine Butterfly; sometimes with a Notch Quickie. At this point, I do whatever I sought to do.
Because this hitch is an SRS/SRT hitch, I have to test it without a rope wrench. I tested two different SRS/SRT hitches this afternoon. After tying the hitch, I clipped into it directly. In order to ascend, I used my foot ascender to ascend my foot on the rope (which was weighted down with throwing weights), shift my weight to my foot, pull myself up and then ascend the hitch manually AKA a Sit-Stand method.
For anyone new to testing hitches, whether they are my hitches, your hitches, or the hitches that are currently most popular today, it is important to take mind of some important safety considerations. Typically, if you're testing with a rope wrench, it's not going to be likely that your hitch will jam; the same is true for any hitch you test as part of an MRS/DDRT setup. But what is your backup plan for if you're testing an SRS/SRT hitch, which is designed to work without the use of hardware to alleviate undesirable tension...and suddenly you find yourself well above the ground, unable to break the hitch?
There are a multitude of methods for "backing up" your climbs while you test hitches. In fact, even for hitches that make use of a rope wrench or MRS/DDRT, it is advisable to have a backup plan. When it comes to SRS/SRT hitches (this time I'm speaking of ANY hitch used on a stationary rope system), my suggestion for testing on a single rope (versus an access line and a backup line) is to always use a foot ascender whenever possible. This will allow a gear-conservative means of ascending the rope and it will also allow you a means of descent should the hitch bind. Simply shift your weight to your foot and raise the hitch enough to that it slides freely and then use your free hand to slide the hitch lower than it was before, but not so far that you end up tilting upside down when you shift your weight back onto the hitch. Repeating these steps will get you safely to the ground, but you'll look and feel foolish.
Another way you can descend is to use a length of cordelette to tie a prusik above the bound up hitch and then connect a figure 8 device below the hitch. Connect the figure 8 to your bridge. Use the other end of the cordelette to tie a Munter Mule Overhand (MMO) at the top, larger hole of the FIgure 8. Make sure that your FIgure 8 is locked off.Use your foot ascender or tie a foot loops (alpine butterfly or overhand on a bight, inline figure 8, etc( or footlock or use a prusik to make a foot loop to shift your weight to the whatever foothold you are using, then slide the cordelette prusik up until you are now hanging from the cordelette (which is holding the FIgure 8 which is connected to your bridge and not the original, bound up hitch anymore. Take this opportunity to disconnect from the bound hitch, untie it, stow it on your harness. Finally, carefully until the Munter Mule Overhand and slowly let the Figure 8 settle with all of your weight on the climb line. Untie the MMO, undo the lock off on your Figure 8 and descend to the ground (after removing whatever foot ascent method you chose, if you chose a foot loop knot).
Phew, that might be a bit too complicated for most users, but knowing this technique doesn't hurt. The better way to test new hitches safely is to use two different ropes; a primary access line and a secondary line. This makes life so much easier. This way, all you need to do is (ideally with two bridges, but one will work just fine) use your throwline to pull two different ropes, or even both sides of one long rope, up over your tie in point (TIP) and now you can create two canopy anchors (even with two ends of one rope this is possible) or, if basal anchors tickle your fancy more, then by all means...go for it.
At this point the number of ways you can back your climb up with this second rope are endless, but I would recommend that you use a) literally any multicender will work: Zig Zag w/ Chicane, Rope Runner Pro, Akimbo, Unicender, etc, b) descenders such as the Petzl Rig or GriGri, c) a Rope Wrench with a hitch you trust, d) a Figure 8/Rescue 8 descender with third hand, etc.
I am fully aware that most of the people on here are more than capable of testing a hitch safely and correctly. Most of you are certainly aware of all of these techniques and, similarly, most of you have no real need for this information because you're using hitches that date back to the Jurassic period which are effectively trusted implicitly in the the tree climbing world (aka Distel, Michoacán, Knut, VT, Blakes, Tautline, etc) and, consequently, testing results are pretty reliable and predictable. Anyways, the reason why I'm writing this lengthy dissertation on techniques for safely testing hitches is because not everyone who reads this thread, or any thread on here for that matter, is as qualified as a lot of you. I'm certainly no expert, but I'm confident in saying I know more than many of the newer viewers of this forum that likely lurk in the shadows. I think it's great when we all can talk and use industry standard terminology and throw out acronyms and we all easily understand what's being said. But I have always made it my purpose to focus on explaining ideas and concepts and techniques in ways that can be understood by those individuals who are completely new to tree climbing and tree work. Did I accomplish that tonight? Well, I hope so. I tried not to assume that everyone will understand what goes into safely testing hitches.
Anyways, getting back to my tests, one of the hitches bound up and I couldn't break it, so I had to bail. I tried it again with less wraps and I nearly plummeted to the ground, but lifted up the small coil just in time to engage it. Hitches are super needy in my opinion. I have developed a habit of manually engaging my hitches whenever and wherever possible. It certainly cain't hurt. Anyways, then I tested the second hitch (which is the hitch up in the previous post's picture) and...
...it worked BEAUTIFULLY! I intentionally tried to get it to bind by repeatedly ascending and descending on the rope, but it was unfazed. After a few ups and downs, I could tell that there was a lot of friction in that coil; you could hear it. But it continued to work every time. Once again, this hitch works SRS/SRT without any additional hardware; it works as is, hitch only, which is pretty spectacular. It absolutely made my day. I had honestly predicted that the other hitch would have worked, not the one that did work. But I'm not done testing the other hitch; it may function better if I tie it differently; perhaps looser.
TL;DR - I went out into the 108 degree heat to test two new hitches. One ended up binding, but the other hitch (the hitch pictured in the previous post, and below) performed beautifully! I did my best to make it bind with multiple ups and downs, but it worked every time. This was one of my SRT/SRS hitches, which work as is, without the need for any added hardware. In the block of text above, I did my best to share my wisdom regarding how to best test hitches and suggested that anyone testing a new hitch for the first time have a backup plan in case the hitch binds up so badly that it locks the climber where they are. A foot ascender is the ideal backup tool and sometimes it makes sense to have a secondary climb line installed with a device that allows descent. I'm super excited about the results and I'll continue to try and make the other hitch function. Below is a picture of the hitch that performed very well, my "PrecisionSRS" hitch.
If anyone thinks I write too much in my posts...I have to be honest...that sounds like a you problem. Just throwing that out there for any naysayers in the crowd.
View attachment 130690
Never mind the length of your post...the legs on that hitch is what is too long
.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #415
Oh, I know. I don't normally actually climb with the hitch legs that long. What happened was, after I initially tied it and weighted it, the eyes extended out farther and farther as slack got removed (also from resetting and redressing until it was how I wanted it). At that point, in the 115 (or thereabouts) degree heat, I wasn't about to dick around with retying those poacher's knots. The long legs didn't effect my testing, so I can live with it. Had I been intent on either a) doing actual climbing or b) demonstrating something to someone where my hitch is visible, I would have brought those Poacher's knots just about as close as I possibly could to the bottom of the hitch. You caught me being lazy and now I'm embarrassed haha I'm glad you said something; you're probably not the only one who now thinks I'm an inept newbie. Naw, just kidding. It does look suspect, though.Never mind the length of your post...the legs on that hitch is what is too long
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #416
When I first climbed with the PrecisionSRS hitch, I did so with an 8mm Veritas hitch cord and an 11.7mm XStatic rope. Fast forward to yesterday, I tried it with a 9mm RIT Response hitch cord on an 11.8mm Drenaline rope. This combo proved to be superior to the first and, using this combination of cord and rope, I had my best experiences. This appears to be a great balance. Finally, I also tested it with an 8mm Bee Line and an 11mm Yale Bifrost. This also worked, but it was a little slippery. I think that either I didn't dress and set the hitch enough before climbing and, also, the Bifrost is known for not performing as well as other super static ropes with hitches. Eventually, I did get it to work reliably, so if you try this hitch and it slips on you, just tighten it up.
Now, I've learned a lot from my experiences testing out hitches designed for SRS/SRT which do not utilize any hardware. Most of all, I've learned that I prefer climbing with a rope wrench. I feel as if climbing with a hitch without one is, in some ways, pushing limits that don't need to be pushed. Now, don't get it twisted: I love the idea of a hitch that works on a single rope without any extra, well, anything. But I just don't feel as confident operating one of those hitches as I do with one that has a rope wrench. In other words, I'm going to absolutely continue to pursue discovering new hitches for SRS/SRT, however, as a climber, when I climb, I will be opting for devices which are either a rope wrench or which mimic the action of a rope wrench such as the Rope Runne Pro.
I think that there is definitely a place for the SRS/SRT hardware-less hitch and that might be if you are doing a quick ascent and descent and have a hitch and minimal time to spare. I have also seen it being used among saddle hunters who effectively make only one or two ascents to bring up their hunting gear and supplies and then one or two descents to bring it down. This can be very useful because, compared to carrying cumbersome climbing hardware, a single eye to eye hitch cord weighs next to nothing and it can even second as a means for connecting gear to backpacks or whatever else. I also think this type of hitch cord would be a great place to start for the recreational tree climber due to its simplicity and its ability to turn climbers into hitch whisperers early on. Certainly they could be used for production climbing if the operator really dials in a good hitch, hitch cord and rope combo. Just because I, personally, would prefer to use a wrench or RRP doesn't mean that this type of hitch isn't well-suited for serious, strenuous maneuvering throughout the tree.
I reserve the right to change my opinion about anything I've just said because, as previously mentioned, my current foray into the realm on SRS?SRT hitches has been thus far relatively brief and I'm still learning a lot about this type of hitch and its pros and cons. Just knowing that I have the wherewithal and skill and ability to a) design this type of hitch and b) operate one anytime I deem necessary is rather empowering and I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from attempting to use this type of hitch on a climb. Once again, if you do, just be wary of the possibility of being stranded if you do not have a backup plan for getting down and start "low and slow."
My recommendation for a hitch to begin with if you wish to pursue this type of hitch is the Sticht hitch, a hitch @Brocky developed...
Or my Quantum hitch, which was inspired by the Sticht hitch...
Now, I've learned a lot from my experiences testing out hitches designed for SRS/SRT which do not utilize any hardware. Most of all, I've learned that I prefer climbing with a rope wrench. I feel as if climbing with a hitch without one is, in some ways, pushing limits that don't need to be pushed. Now, don't get it twisted: I love the idea of a hitch that works on a single rope without any extra, well, anything. But I just don't feel as confident operating one of those hitches as I do with one that has a rope wrench. In other words, I'm going to absolutely continue to pursue discovering new hitches for SRS/SRT, however, as a climber, when I climb, I will be opting for devices which are either a rope wrench or which mimic the action of a rope wrench such as the Rope Runne Pro.
I think that there is definitely a place for the SRS/SRT hardware-less hitch and that might be if you are doing a quick ascent and descent and have a hitch and minimal time to spare. I have also seen it being used among saddle hunters who effectively make only one or two ascents to bring up their hunting gear and supplies and then one or two descents to bring it down. This can be very useful because, compared to carrying cumbersome climbing hardware, a single eye to eye hitch cord weighs next to nothing and it can even second as a means for connecting gear to backpacks or whatever else. I also think this type of hitch cord would be a great place to start for the recreational tree climber due to its simplicity and its ability to turn climbers into hitch whisperers early on. Certainly they could be used for production climbing if the operator really dials in a good hitch, hitch cord and rope combo. Just because I, personally, would prefer to use a wrench or RRP doesn't mean that this type of hitch isn't well-suited for serious, strenuous maneuvering throughout the tree.
I reserve the right to change my opinion about anything I've just said because, as previously mentioned, my current foray into the realm on SRS?SRT hitches has been thus far relatively brief and I'm still learning a lot about this type of hitch and its pros and cons. Just knowing that I have the wherewithal and skill and ability to a) design this type of hitch and b) operate one anytime I deem necessary is rather empowering and I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from attempting to use this type of hitch on a climb. Once again, if you do, just be wary of the possibility of being stranded if you do not have a backup plan for getting down and start "low and slow."
My recommendation for a hitch to begin with if you wish to pursue this type of hitch is the Sticht hitch, a hitch @Brocky developed...
Or my Quantum hitch, which was inspired by the Sticht hitch...
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #419
Well everyone, surely by now you're all in withdrawal from my delightful posts about custom hitch cords...or perhaps you were relishing in my brief hiatus because you find my posts to be cringeworthy...
*the song "Come Together" by the Beatles plays*
Either way...I'm back!
*proceeds to hype up the part of the crowd that cares and proceeds to annoy or woo over the part of the crowd that doesn't/didn't*
I have been playing around with my latest hitch, the PrecisionSRS, and I have discovered a better way of tying it that alleviates much of the distance between the coil and the adjustability stage (the part below the coil). It also ties it in a way that is more balanced. You can see this in the hitch shown on the left in the image in the Bee Line hitch cord. Compare it to my pictures of the previous design and you’ll quickly see why this is superior. In order to denote the differences, the original design will be PrecisionSRS and the newer, potentially superior design will be simply PrecisionSRS II.
Full Disclosure: I have yet to do any actual testing to determine that the original is inferior to the newer version due to excessive heat in my area (Arizona). However, My knowledge of hitch cords strongly suggests that these changes in rank will be reflected in my experiences once I am finally able to do tests. However, I reserve the right to be wrong and I will amend my results as I see fit once actual testing has completed.
Lastly, take a look at the hitch on the right. I haven’t tested this hitch either, but it was a precursor to my PrecisionSRS. I’m not sure what to name it as of yet, but it deserves its own name outside of the others mentioned today. I thought about calling it the Scarab because it sort of resembles, well, yeah, you guessed it: a scarab. Any thoughts on that name? Would naming it after a giant insect be too off-putting? Let me know what you think it resembles!
*the song "Come Together" by the Beatles plays*
Either way...I'm back!
*proceeds to hype up the part of the crowd that cares and proceeds to annoy or woo over the part of the crowd that doesn't/didn't*
I have been playing around with my latest hitch, the PrecisionSRS, and I have discovered a better way of tying it that alleviates much of the distance between the coil and the adjustability stage (the part below the coil). It also ties it in a way that is more balanced. You can see this in the hitch shown on the left in the image in the Bee Line hitch cord. Compare it to my pictures of the previous design and you’ll quickly see why this is superior. In order to denote the differences, the original design will be PrecisionSRS and the newer, potentially superior design will be simply PrecisionSRS II.
Full Disclosure: I have yet to do any actual testing to determine that the original is inferior to the newer version due to excessive heat in my area (Arizona). However, My knowledge of hitch cords strongly suggests that these changes in rank will be reflected in my experiences once I am finally able to do tests. However, I reserve the right to be wrong and I will amend my results as I see fit once actual testing has completed.
Lastly, take a look at the hitch on the right. I haven’t tested this hitch either, but it was a precursor to my PrecisionSRS. I’m not sure what to name it as of yet, but it deserves its own name outside of the others mentioned today. I thought about calling it the Scarab because it sort of resembles, well, yeah, you guessed it: a scarab. Any thoughts on that name? Would naming it after a giant insect be too off-putting? Let me know what you think it resembles!
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #421
Mer. It is pretty disruptive, isn't it? It's like camouflage. Here's a new picture that shows the progression. The first is the No Name hitch (the first one I developed in the series), then the PrecisionSRS (second in the series) and then, finally, on the far right, the PrecisionSRS II. I hope the 8mm Ocean and 8mm HTC are easier to understand than the Bee Line. You're right in saying that there is very little difference between the No Name and the PrecisionSRS/PrecisionSRS II. I might even just call it PrecisionSRS, then call the current one named that PrecisionSRS II and then call the one named that PrecisionSRS III.
Anyways, here you can more easily see the difference between the PrecisionSRS and PrecisionSRS II that I spoke about.
EDIT: It's worth noting that the the second hitch shown below (PrecisionSRS) isn't dressed and set properly, but it's close enough. The two resulting legs should cross over one another like an "X" behind the rope before exiting out towards the climber. The resulting left leg should go over the resulting right leg versus one being above the other perpendicularly.
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #422
Howdy ya'll!
I've been looking through my phone, where I store photographs of all of the hitches that I want to experiment with, and I have so many! The number of hitches that I have to test is growing steadily, while the number of hitches I've tested lately is zero. It's simply too hot over here! It's hotter than a Great White show! It's hotter than two rats f*ckin' in a wool sock! It's hotter than Georgia asphalt! It's hotter than a meth pipe on payday! It's hotter than a teaspoon in a trap house! It's hotter than a sauna in Death Valley! It's hotter than a heat lamp on a habanero! It's hotter than a blacksmith's forge! It's hotter than a Lil' Wayne mix tape! It's hotter than a stolen vehicle! You get the picture...it's HAWT!
I feel sorry for anyone who has to work in these conditions! Anyways, I felt like I needed to keep my thread alive, so I'm going to share with you two of the new hitches. The first hitch I'm going to call the Filigree hitch because of its resemblance to, well, filigree. The second hitch, for which I haven't a name yet, is potentially an SRT hitch. It is quite a unique and fun design if you ask me! Not entirely sure how I came up with it, and I honestly forgot that I had at all! But I found it in my pictures from many moons ago and decided to revive it. What's really interesting about this hitch is how, despite its complicated front, the reverse is extremely well organized and very simple. In any event, I have front and side pictures for both hitches attached at the bottom. Enjoy! Comments always welcomed!
I've been looking through my phone, where I store photographs of all of the hitches that I want to experiment with, and I have so many! The number of hitches that I have to test is growing steadily, while the number of hitches I've tested lately is zero. It's simply too hot over here! It's hotter than a Great White show! It's hotter than two rats f*ckin' in a wool sock! It's hotter than Georgia asphalt! It's hotter than a meth pipe on payday! It's hotter than a teaspoon in a trap house! It's hotter than a sauna in Death Valley! It's hotter than a heat lamp on a habanero! It's hotter than a blacksmith's forge! It's hotter than a Lil' Wayne mix tape! It's hotter than a stolen vehicle! You get the picture...it's HAWT!
I feel sorry for anyone who has to work in these conditions! Anyways, I felt like I needed to keep my thread alive, so I'm going to share with you two of the new hitches. The first hitch I'm going to call the Filigree hitch because of its resemblance to, well, filigree. The second hitch, for which I haven't a name yet, is potentially an SRT hitch. It is quite a unique and fun design if you ask me! Not entirely sure how I came up with it, and I honestly forgot that I had at all! But I found it in my pictures from many moons ago and decided to revive it. What's really interesting about this hitch is how, despite its complicated front, the reverse is extremely well organized and very simple. In any event, I have front and side pictures for both hitches attached at the bottom. Enjoy! Comments always welcomed!
Attachments
Last edited:
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #423
I just came up with something amazing!
Introducing...the VelociWRAPtor!
Five wraps and one braid straight from the Jurassic period!
Let me know what you think! =-D
Introducing...the VelociWRAPtor!
Five wraps and one braid straight from the Jurassic period!
Let me know what you think! =-D
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #424
No love for the VelociWRAPtor?! Alas!
I recently made an important improvement to my PrecisionSRS III by creating an "elbow" where the legs previously crossed into an "X" shape at the center of the hitch leg circle! By doing this, my hitch no longer binds and I call it the PrecisionSRS IV!
Anyone looking for an SRT hitch or even a quality hitch to use with a rope wrench should consider this hitch! It is quite remarkable!.
I recently made an important improvement to my PrecisionSRS III by creating an "elbow" where the legs previously crossed into an "X" shape at the center of the hitch leg circle! By doing this, my hitch no longer binds and I call it the PrecisionSRS IV!
Anyone looking for an SRT hitch or even a quality hitch to use with a rope wrench should consider this hitch! It is quite remarkable!.
Knotorious
That Guy With The Face
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #425
Introducing the SYNTHESIS hitch...
You can't tell me this hitch doesn't look good! It performed well in preliminary testing as well! Let me know what you all think!
Also, don't forget to check out the new SRT Hitch Series that I have posted on my YouTube channel! So far only the first episode is out and it's about a really unique SRT hitch: the Synergy X hitch. If this interests you, check it out! I'll be posting the rest of the episodes on here as they get published each week!
You can't tell me this hitch doesn't look good! It performed well in preliminary testing as well! Let me know what you all think!
Also, don't forget to check out the new SRT Hitch Series that I have posted on my YouTube channel! So far only the first episode is out and it's about a really unique SRT hitch: the Synergy X hitch. If this interests you, check it out! I'll be posting the rest of the episodes on here as they get published each week!
Similar threads
