HitchHiker: DRT Switch and Basic Use

bonner1040

Nick from Ohio
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
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Location
Indianapolis / Cleveland
Showing basic setup, function and the versatility of switching easily between SRT and DRT.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/BWEqDgaux8g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Volume Fixed.
 
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  • #3
Thanks. It didnt turn out as polished as I wanted but its content I have wanted to do ever since I did my first video on the HH.
 
Nice one Nick. Good, basic informational video. You should put a link to it in your review on the treestuff website, if that's possible.
 
Yet another great review. Thanks Nick. I've been tempted to purchase a HH but have been on the fence a bit between the HH, Rope Wrench, and a Unicender. Am going to have to give more thought to the HH.
 
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  • #8
Matt,

I have a Unicender but not a RopeWrench. I am getting a ropewrench to try (I havent yet so there is some ignorance in my comments) as well as a spiderjack and am going to attempt a 'buying guide' video featuring the pros and cons of all of them.

Price: The HH and RW are about the same price all said and done when you consider the stiff tether and a biner for the RW. The Uni is considerably more expensive.

Durability: The HH is extremely well built and will likely last forever. The friction bearing aluminum component is so wide and broad that wear and tear for me, in daily use is unnoticeable and the tool steel portions show no wear at all. The RW1 and 2 both seem like quality products and the RW has seemingly all replaceable & affordable wear parts. The RW2 incorporates a moving part, the pulley, which will eventually wear out or get gritty or something, however I imagine the lifecycle is quite long. The Unicender will most definitely wear out and require a rebuild within 1-2 years of use, maybe less..

Versatility: I have spoken a lot about the HH's versatilty, I could elaborate but I am sure you get the idea. The RW I dont know much about its DRT performance but I have never heard of someone using it DRT except for arial rescue, however inherent in a RW setup is a DRt setup so removing the wrench leaves you in DRT mode. The Unicender is really versatile, it easily switches between SRT and DRT much like the HH.

Performance: The RW has documented high end performance and is notoriously customizable. It is longer than both the Uni or HH. All the video and review I have digested on the RW show that it tends smoothly and grabs reliably when used properly. The setup is quick and the RW and tether stow well. The HitchHiker for me is very intuitive of my normal DRT hitch setup, I place a lot of value on its compact setup and familiar feel. The hitch configuration required fine tuning for me in the beginning but I have everything dialed into a consistent reliable setup now. The Unicender for me was a little hard to get used to. My unit was used when I received and I have tried it on fat and skinny lines. I was never able to get a smooth feeling on it and always switched back to DRT. The Uni is great for me for setting crane picks and climbing small trees DRT. It will self tail better than any of the other devices in question. As far as weight the HH weighs the most and the RW weighs the least.

Overall I like the HH and to me it is a clear choice over the Unicender. I am really excited to try a RW in the coming weeks so I can learn more about that, I am going to be using a RW1 so if anyone has a RW2 that they would loan me I would really appreciate that.

In truth, for me personally, I dont think the performance of the HH could be so greatly improved by the RW (or anything) that I would give up the feel, setup, and size of the HH.

I think Adam has all 3 devices you mentioned, you should give them all a try. Let us know what you decide!
 
You are wealth of knowledge sir.

Adam does have all 3 of those and is always willing to share. :D The RW seems to work really well, but the Unicender doesn't float my boat. I'm going to have to revisit the HH again. Maybe some more playing around with it will finally make me call up Treestuff.
 
Nice vid, Nick.

If I could add my .02, I would suggest that to the production Drt climber, the HH will likely be an easier transition tool. I've used it for around 3 weeks now and it has literally transformed my production on pruning jobs. I still Drt removals, so not much has changed there, but I imagine that I will likely be planning my removal trees for Srt in the future. As I went about a week doing Srt pruning, had one removal on Friday and found myself really missing the Srt action by the end of the removal.
 
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I still work most removals DRT to, But if I throw into the tree first I will SRT ascent up to a choked TIP and then make the switch just like its shown in the video. If you arent climbing the rope but have a choked TIP above you can put some weight on the line or have a groundie hold the line as you climb and it easily tends up the non-moving line and belays you as you run up the tree on spurs.

For the most part DRT is still easier for removals but its the ability to switch intermittently thats cool. For example you can br on spurs and working up or down and use your climbline close on a branch where there isnt a crotch by choking it on a vertical limb. Or when working down a spar you can have your climb line choked at your knees tight to the tree, God forbid you cut your lanyard you would actually be able to descend on the system. Compared to using an adjustable friction saver or other DRT methods of protecting yourself on the spar this is minimalist, quick, and safe. Blocking down large chunks, after a cut sliding down on the choked system is easy and the choked part can easily be retrieved by tying the end of your rope to the biner beforehand or using a running bowline with a long tail. On large spars you climbline can be used dee>dee easily and without any extra bulk or equipment switching.

For me the HH does everything I could ever want it to. It seems like anytime I wonder, can I do: ... the answer is simply yeah.
 
Blocking down large chunks, after a cut sliding down on the choked system is easy
I do that too. A real pita with only the hitch from the Ddrt, but very easy with the HH. To get back the line, I use my pocket telescopic pole (up to 15 feet reach).
 
Kinda funny I use the HH SRT for removals more than I do trims. To me its easier because you have to go back to the top so can retrieve your girth tied climb line then. I still struggle with that with trims...
 
Thanks for that...the visual explained a lot for me. I'm getting closer to the purchase date!
 
I haven't yet had to choke a tip on a prune job as I haven't had anything so tall that I couldn't double the rope. But, when the time eventually comes, I think I'll just use a throwline attached to the tail of an RB in order to get it down.

I am 100% sold on SRT work positioning. I literally throwballed into a 30' copper beech today and pruned it SRT. Soooo much easier. Anyone see any problems with using a porty for a basal tie? Thats what I've been using lately...am I a bad tree climber?
 
I haven't yet had to choke a tip on a prune job as I haven't had anything so tall that I couldn't double the rope. But, when the time eventually comes, I think I'll just use a throwline attached to the tail of an RB in order to get it down.

Just make sure you put that throwline on last thing before you come out of the tree. You don't want it hanging around while you're working, no matter how out of the way you think it might be. Yes, I have learned this the hard way.
 
Sure, or even some 5mm accessory cord would work. Whatever you have on hand. Just beware the insanely tangled throwline.
 
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  • #25
I have a 90' 7mm cord that I use for that...Beware though. You cannot pull it out with redirects (you might be able to but its f'in miserable). The climbing line and retrieval line have to run together.
 
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