First Coos Bay cut and dealing with broken limbs

Welcome to the House,Cfaller, got a first name? I'm Sean, in Olympia, WA, and am self-employed, having worked on some Gov't projects directly and indirectly over a couple of years.
 
I found this forum by researching the cb cut, and found a discussion by Jerry Beranec, and Burnham. Gerry explained it the way he learned it from Mike Davis, and in my minds eye, I saw the stump looking like the one in Cfallers photos. The side cuts parallel to the lay. with the back cut letting it go, and the holding wood left in the face. Pretty much used to let it go where its headed, without much english on it. Using the precautions Burnham speaks to, it looks real useful to me. Kind of down and dirty tree tripping......Bill
 
Seems like a slight kerf around the trunk to start will align your side cuts with the holding wood of the strip to prevent re-cutting side wood.

I've only used it a bit.
 
I just look at the kerf cuts like a face. Back cut in line or slightly above. After you do it a few times, it aligns natural.
Of course I also use a small face if I want a tad more direction when she pops.
 
Seems like a slight kerf around the trunk to start will align your side cuts with the holding wood of the strip to prevent re-cutting side wood.

I've only used it a bit.

One has to be very careful about even the tiniest amount of "pre-cutting" on a tree than calls for a Coos Bay felling cut. By definition, they want to 'chair at the slightest provocation. Better, in my book, to go at them fast and furious, no second thoughts, slap the side cuts in and hit the back cut with everything you got 'til she goes to her lean.

You need to be aggressive, and be running an aggressive saw. Not a cut for the unsure cutter, for the weak of heart.
 
One has to be very careful about even the tiniest amount of "pre-cutting" on a tree than calls for a Coos Bay felling cut. By definition, they want to 'chair at the slightest provocation. Better, in my book, to go at them fast and furious, no second thoughts, slap the side cuts in and hit the back cut with everything you got 'til she goes to her lean.

You need to be aggressive, and be running an aggressive saw. Not a cut for the unsure cutter, for the weak of heart.
:thumbup:

Brings a whole new meaning to "cut and run" :lol:
Especially with some snow on em ;)
 
One has to be very careful about even the tiniest amount of "pre-cutting" on a tree than calls for a Coos Bay felling cut. By definition, they want to 'chair at the slightest provocation. Better, in my book, to go at them fast and furious, no second thoughts, slap the side cuts in and hit the back cut with everything you got 'til she goes to her lean.

You need to be aggressive, and be running an aggressive saw. Not a cut for the unsure cutter, for the weak of heart.


Exactly right.
 
Welcome to the House,Cfaller, got a first name? I'm Sean, in Olympia, WA, and am self-employed, having worked on some Gov't projects directly and indirectly over a couple of years.
Sean, First name is Willy. I do wildland fire as one of my jobs.
 
One has to be very careful about even the tiniest amount of "pre-cutting" on a tree than calls for a Coos Bay felling cut. By definition, they want to 'chair at the slightest provocation. Better, in my book, to go at them fast and furious, no second thoughts, slap the side cuts in and hit the back cut with everything you got 'til she goes to her lean.

You need to be aggressive, and be running an aggressive saw. Not a cut for the unsure cutter, for the weak of heart.

I agree with you a 100%. Just need to watch the side lean, which a wedge will fix. I set it as far forward as I can, so you don't cut the side of your wedge on the backcut.:X
 
Im missing something here. Why not bore cut it? Plain and simple and complete control of the lay.
 
I would imagine certain trees could explode before or as you are about to release them, if they are big, heavy, and leaning enough
 
Not that tree.

Ive bore cut some severely loaded trees. If you know what you are doing, its dandy.
 
The bore cut works adequately for most average head leaning trees, and offers some directional control too. The Coo's Bay is far better suited for tripping dangerous heavy stems, but offers little if any directional control. It just helps save a tree from blowing up in your face. Just a technique, but one that requires a lot of swagger. Like B said, fast and furious, and have a way out.
 
I've never felled enough heavy timber with heavy forward lean to use the Coos Bay, but having said that I do tend to operate a saw with more power then needed and I touch up my chain regularly.
I learned one important factor with the training company I'm involved with. You do have a longer holding hinge if the back cut is first bore cut, hinge thickness established, then trip the rear strap.

Like Jerry said bore cutting is not always a good idea in a dangerous heavy front leaner.
I believe in side kerf cuts on both sides to reduce back cut time if the bore cut method is not used........fast cutting saw, fast feet.
 
It's all in understanding what you're working with. There's more than one way to skin a cat.

As for a climber, the Coos Bay can be executed and tripped purely from above the stem. Making it ideal for tripping long heavy limbs close to the ground. The limb may not always come off the butt clean but the technique puts you in a much safer work position when it does. Rather than being directly beside a piece of work that could hit tip first and then kick back on you. Again, it's all in understanding what you working with. And then always have a way out.
 
Word, brothers...from the master :).

I look at the Coos Bay felling cut (emphasis on felling here, Jerry's mention of it's employ on limbs, for a climber, are valuable input without a doubt) as an extreme technique to be employed in extreme situations of heavy head lean. I might have used it a few times a year, at best, and that was when my job focused on hazard tree felling. For the average faller, the arborist...seldom will you need it. But you damn well better know how to use it when the tree calls for it, 'cause it can purely save your neck when it's needed.
 
Escape route 135 degrees from the direction of lay [45 degrees from the opposite direction to lay] and don't linger too long at the stump.
Three numbers come to mind, the 5-15-90 rule. Studies have shown that 90% of fatalities happen within 15 seconds after the tree starts to fall , within 5 feet radius of the stump.
So if you plan a proper escape route, you can increase your chances of survival or escaping injury by 90%.
 
Local guy just had a run in with lady luck. He dropped a head leaner and did not scoot from the stump. Top hit, bounced back and the butt hit him in the chest sending him back about 12 feet. No serious injury, 12"DBH oak... Not a biggun.. But it does not take a biggun.
He was spoken to by a couple of us at the saw shop the other day. He got schooled.
 
One of the things I like about this cut is it is fast to put in. Three cuts, all of them cut across the grain of the wood. Like B said, when dealing with hazard trees the less time you spend under the tree the better. Boring definitely has its place on a leaner, but this cut just has less screwing around.
 
One of the things I like about this cut is it is fast to put in. Three cuts, all of them cut across the grain of the wood. Like B said, when dealing with hazard trees the less time you spend under the tree the better. Boring definitely has its place on a leaner, but this cut just has less screwing around.
I've spoken to a few smoke jumpers who use it alot
 
I've spoken to a few smoke jumpers who use it alot
I can definitely see that! Cutting trees that are actively burning is really interesting. The longer it is burning the weaker it is getting, so you either walk away from it or get after it. The thing that really sucks is the ground you are cutting is usually really hot.
 
And steep, and covered with slash, and it's way after dark, and that snag over there is taller than I can see to, and...

Been there too, as you might guess :D.
 
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