fair price for 200t?

I've been cuttin lotsa sixteen inch rounds the past few years and found that it's far more than properly sharpened chains, it's properly dressed bars n new drive sprockets.

Jomo
 
I keep forgetting, I need to see about picking up a new stihl light bar from a not so local local shop, because one we are using is so worn out, you have to wiggle the saw in the cut, so it can find a straight path through without binding. Boss keeps forgetting to get one, but he's not as close to the shop either.
 
Ive had an 020t, and two 200ts and never had a problem with either the muffler or the carb. All of them are still running. Mind you for my niche, the 150t has put my 200t into semi-retirement.
I do have a 210t, and it's...ok. Its sulking because it's the back-up, back-up.
19 yrs own biz.
 
I've got two Ms200T's one is stock the other I enhanced .I've lost track of how many I worked on for others .The muffler deal is they originally had serrated belleville washers on the bolts which if they rattled loose they never get replaced .I've ran the 201's when they first came out and don't like them compared to an 020t or 200t .
 
I don't doubt that a stock 200T used primarily for pruning and an occasional removal, would last for many good years.

But I pretty much specialized in big strategic removals 6 days a week.

Never got much more than two years before my mufflers rattled off, and no amount of new Belleville conical lockwasher's could ever solve the problem.

I hope and believe that Stihl is perfectly capable of designing n building a bullet proof gas powered trim/removal top handled saw.

They could even go retro and build one with dual triggers like my old Homelite Super 2's.

Jomo
 
Just my perspective on what killed many of the 020/200T saws .They have roller bearing main bearings with a built in thrust plate inside the bearing .These will wear out after long usage and allow side slop which will cause the seals to fail normally on the clutch side .Which of course will eventually cause a lean run condition .Replacement of bearings and seals is maybe an hour and a half two hour job with about $60 in OEM parts .I've done several .I've heard but never verified the seals from an 024 are a better choice than the originals .The next one I do I will check that out .That said I'd imagine my two 200T's will last forever no more than they get used .They are neat little hot rod saws though .
 
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  • #84
Jomo said:
I don't doubt that a stock 200T used primarily for pruning and an occasional removal, would last for many good years.

But I pretty much specialized in big strategic removals 6 days a week.

Never got much more than two years before my mufflers rattled off, and no amount of new Belleville conical lockwasher's could ever solve the problem.

I hope and believe that Stihl is perfectly capable of designing n building a bullet proof gas powered trim/removal top handled saw.

They could even go retro and build one with dual triggers like my old Homelite Super 2's.

Jomo
Click to expand...
I will keep this in mind, and find some type of high temp locktite for the muffler bolts

also, I rarely do prunes, almost entirely removals
 
My work is primarily removals, and I've never had an issue with 200Ts in 11 years of running them. Have had two go down. Just didn't take the time to fix whatever was wrong with them. Set them back as parts saws, and went to the barn and grabbed new ones to replace them.
 
I actually contacted Stihl USA headquarters to speak with one of their experts about the mufflers rattling loose.

He asked me if I let the saw idle between cuts? I said no. He said that's the problem, to let the saw idle between cuts to stay cool. I believe him.

Jomo
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #87
I dont believe him, idling and letting it cool off between cuts will heat cycle the bolts, making for a worse issue, keep it hot and you wont have an issue, check them every week, and keep heat cycles to a minimum
 
Generally speaking, and I haven't found a contrary example yet, things don't like to have their state changed fast. Fast charging is hard on batteries, drastic temperature changes more harshly affect materials, and running full out from cold causes more wear. I idle all my saws for a bit after a strenuous cut, and I don't pull start and jam them in wood WOT without a brief warmup period. Anything one can do to ease into changing an item's state will be nicer to that item.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #91
tis why I say not to idle and cool it off between cuts

now, something like milling would be different, as the saw is running wot for a few minutes, vs a cut with a tophandle being usually 10 seconds or less, let it cool down naturally IMO

do whatever you want with your own saws tho, its mostly just my opinion and nobody should care about that
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #93
can someone explain the appeal of a rearhandle on a tophandle saw? I cannot wrap my head around it, unless its for climbing and youre not comfortable with a tophandle?
 
light weight on ground....bumped an old thread for ya.....light weight baby
 
It's just a small displacement saw with a rear handle. Nothing about a top handle makes it particularly suited to climbing aside from its top handle chassis. Sometimes all you need is a little saw.
 
Try cutting 50,000 christmas trees every year.
Then you'll see the use for it.
 
It’s just called an MS200, not an MS200T, right?
Depends on condition, but a mint one would probably go for over 1,000$. I couldn’t bring myself to spend that, especially since I got a 241CM already which is all the little rear handle saw I should need.
 
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