And therein lies the riub. I believe the term " blocking down" is usually meant to refer to negative blocking .
This thread could perhaps be entitled "What techniques do you use for working down a spar"
And I also employ whatever the situation requires. I love to undermine the COB of a long section, so as not to have to use a pull line, or carry wedges aloft.
For 35 years, I've one handed the saw while pushing the section over. Today's safety police frown on that, saying its dangerous. True, it can be..especially if the bar isn't long enough to go through, and the tip contacts some uncut wood --but proper swing cutting would negate that chance---
A good tool to use for more safely finishing a backcut is a straight bladed handsaw. But I lost my Natanoko years ago, and never got a 16" Silky Mazuru..which was recommended to me by wiley_p.
For cutting rounds, I'll backchain as the kerf is closing, to make a space for the back of the bar to not be pinched, allowing the section to be cut all the way through, and the saw removed more easily that if that isn't done...or better, pop in a long wedge...which can then be used as a lifting lever to slide the round off.
Or cut at an angle to get the piece to slide off.
Or use a crowbar to lift the section and install one or two wooden dowels,such as broken rake handles. Then the round can be easily rolled off..and distance can be gained--works well which lateral distance is needed to avoid an obstacle....I've free dropped wood from inside a deck using this method several times. Similar to Reg's neat (but cumbersome and pricey) BlcokDriver.
I also prefer to avoid snap cutting..as it takes a bit of time...and makes for ragged looking firewood.. Further, more than a few times when snap cutting, I've had to start over with the mismatch portion of the cut, or actually had the section turn and fall to the side, as enough wood on the off side wasn't cut.
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