Bill's Husky 372

  • Thread starter Thread starter SkwerI
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 208
  • Views Views 23K
Skwerl said:
Still waiting on the envelope from Kevin. I have the clutch side seal out, I will probably test run it before pulling the flywheel and changing the far side crank seal. If the clutch side began leaking due to the heat from the broken oiler then there isn't any reason to mess with the other side.
Click to expand...

You should replace both while you are at it... It is no trouble at all as you have saw in parts and all clean and ready to assemble. The minutes it takes to take wheel and change the seal is well spent!
Learned this lesson long ago... The hard way... The expensive way...
 
Skwerl said:
Still waiting on the envelope from Kevin.
Click to expand...

I hope that isnt a bad sign. Seals went out Monday. The 066 flywheel I sent out Tues is already safe and a clutch cover that went out is still MIA.
 
I never got a reply from Scott at chainsawr, either. I guess my email got 'lost' as well. :(

Magnus, I'll take your well experienced advice into consideration. :)
 
Well you shot yourselves in the foot with all the free advertising you did for him in the last few weeks.
 
Kevin's envelope with the crank seals showed up today. I've been tied up with the bucket truck axle and a couple other projects around the house but I'll try to get on it this weekend.
 
Brian, I've observed that your repair skills have really progressed over the years, pretty darn cool. Haven't changed out any seals yet myself. I like working on saws, but never have much looked forward to changing seals for some reason.
 
After B. gets those seals in he can verify what I've been saying for years ,it's simple .

Actually most work on saws is simple .You just have to think it through .

I'll be the first to admit though you'd best be in the right mood .They can get damned frustrating at times .Just walk away and come back to it later if they get to making a nuisance of themselves . I had one that made me so mad I banished it to the shelf for a few years .Come to find out all it was was a spacer gasket installed on the wrong side of the carb diaphragm,duh .
 
simplypete said:
Well you shot yourselves in the foot with all the free advertising you did for him in the last few weeks.
Click to expand...
Usually Scotts real good . From what I gather though he's been up to his azz in alligators with work etc .

I got that 200t crank case for Toms' saw from a guy in Minnisota who evidently has a salvage biz ."saw again " ,Dan Dean is the guys name .I have no idea if he has a biz or just sells on flea bay .
 
This afternoon's efforts:

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/UOCRb2MdiD0?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/UOCRb2MdiD0?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
Watching video now. Just wanted you to know, just in case. Blue coil is REV-limited to 13.5K and if lean but sounds like it is 4 stroking (missing sound) it might be to lean and bouncing off the limiter.
 
I'm aware of the blue rev limited coil, but thanks for mentioning it. :thumbup:
Unfortunately I never got that far. Looks like my original assessment that the crank bearings were shot was correct. Once again I have never seen a saw with bad crank seals but good bearings. The seals do not go out unless the bearings go first. I will continue to believe that until somebody proves me wrong, but I haven't seen it yet. Either that or I screwed up putting the seals in.

Here's the sad results. I never got it running more than a minute or so before the seal disintegrated again. And the aftermarket oil pump drive piece from Chainsawr broke in that time. If he wants to blame the oil pump then I bought that from him as well. :thumbdown: He seems like a good source for used parts and OEM old stock, but stay far away from the Forester aftermarket parts. They are complete garbage.

The video cut off because my memory card was full, but you get the gist of it.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/f4uDeY-8HAw?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/f4uDeY-8HAw?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
 
Thanks for telling about the video card part. I was on my 3rd try of only half way on first video. :lol:
 
Well dang. I think this is my first documented saw repair failure, but it was still a good learning experience. I just wish I could have gotten it running after all that.

Since I failed at the repair as well as my choice in crappy replacement parts, I can't bring myself to charge Bill anything for my wasted time. I just shot off a second email to Scott at Chainsawr so he may (hopefully) refund some dollars for his crappy aftermarket parts. But at this point I'm afraid I've done all I can do with it. Bill, give me a holler and we can meet up the next time you're in town and I'll give your saw back to you. I'm sorry I couldn't fix it. :(
 
You can't make chicken soup out of chicken shit- bad parts are bad parts.

Your workmanship was excellent, Brian. :thumbup:
 
Hey you gave it a shot at least .Hell it could have a bent crank from a fall or somebody beating on it . They don't have to be bent much too really screw things up .So it's no worse off than it was .

I suppose the top end is good .Maybe one will come along with a good bottom and a cooked top .You never know .
 
Yeah, nice try. That is the price you pay for learning, but sometimes it seems that learning has to go on for forever. :|:
 
So what does the saw need to be put right? Oiler, bearings and seals? Is the top end good? What is it worth? More questions at eleven.
 
At this point I don't know why the bottom end is bad. I couldn't feel any slop in the bearing but it ate up the new seal in less than a minute, so the crank obviously isn't turning true. It is past the point where I would strip it for parts and/or use it to rebuild another carcass with a known good bottom end. The rest of the saw is in good working shape with the exception of the POS aftermarket oil pump driver part I bought from Chainsawr.
 
I was trying to answer your question. I personally am calling it quits on this particular saw (unless Bill comes up with a donor saw with a good bottom end). At this point I can't do any more.
 
I see, I wasn't quite sure what you were saying, but that doesn't mean it was your fault.:|: :lol:

Hey Bill, what's the saw worth to you? I was looking for a clunker 394, but I might be tempted to buy a 372 project, if price and shipping is workable. ( I don't know what a reasonable price is for it).
 
Well it would take a case split .Rather involved if you've never done one .About the only way to make sure the crank is true is to chuck it between centers and use a dial indicater on it .If it were off just 5 thou that would be enough to screw things up .

IMO a donor yes, new parts no .Not my call though .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

BlackBikeDave
046 Refurbishing
Replies
16
Views
227
Trains
Trains
SkwerI
346XP running issues
Replies
13
Views
1K
Husky D
Husky D
Ed L
0 for 2 today
Replies
5
Views
550
Ed L
Ed L
cory
The dreaded stripped threads, Husky 572
Replies
21
Views
953
huskihl
huskihl
Czed
McCulloch 10-10s
Replies
15
Views
949
stikine
stikine
Back
Top