Bars for Husky 395XP.

[Dave Shepard]

I need to get a new bar, or two, for my 395. The Husky/Oregon ones don't last long. Any suggestions on aftermarket bars that hold up well? Thanks.

 

[flushcut]

Cannon . The best and the most expensive. But wear like iron and can be reconditioned. Heavy.

 

[Jonny]

Heavy can sometimes be a good thing.

What’s wearing on the bars you’re going through? Are they laminated?

I’m still in need of a 24” or 25” for the MS441, or occasionally the MS362, and this time I think I’ll be buying one of the Japanese bars, Sugihara or Tsumura. Solid probably, but I hear their light bars are great.

 

[Dave Shepard]

The groove gets sloppy, then they don't cut straight. I have a tool grinder so I can keep the rails nice. Maybe I just need to try one of those tools that squeezes the rails together.

 

[flushcut]

The groove squeezer works well but you can over squeeze the rails and create a hot spot on the bar. Baby steps little at a time.

 

[lxskllr]

Stihl bar + adapter and a little metalwork maybe. Stihl makes the best stock bars by far imo. You could also look at Baileys WoodlandPro line. See if the price is worth the gamble for the size you want. I use them on all my small saws, and I like them better than the oem bars, but that's a different level of work. I doubt they'd be any better than Oregon on a big saw, but it might be worth a try if the price is right.

 

[Sven]

Read one of the product review in a recent tcia and some of the newer light bars from husqvarna are made by sugi.

 

[Dave Shepard]

I have an adapter for Stihl bars, but as you said, it wasn't plug and play. I think the issue is I only use Stihl chain, and it must be harder than the Husky/Oregon chain.
I've heard that Husky bars are hard to get for the dealers. Not sure I could get a light bar unless it was attached to a new saw, not that I don't want a 592XP.

 

[huskihl]

Husky/Oregon bars mostly went the way of China I believe.

In terms of weight, lightest to heaviest
Stihl light
Cannon Duralite
Oregon LW
Tsumura LW
Sugi LW
Most regular weight bars
Cannon reg weight

For durability, which is a bit anecdotal, as it’s mostly what I’ve read

Cannon, Stihl, Sugi regular weight all about the same
Tsumura (only #2 because the tips fail if you bore cut often)
Cannon Duralite, Stihl LW, Sugi LW
Tsumura LW
Oregon LW
Most other standard weight bars

GB is another that can be of either Cannon quality if it’s older or Chinese quality on some of the newer models. Depends on how old it is.

 

[Nutball]

What about the Titanium GB bars?

 

[Sven]

This is the sugi/husq bar for $160, HL is nice to work with. Sawagain carries Tsumura which some are in stock with Husq tails, bought a 24 light from them which has been fine so far. OEM Husqvarna 36'' X-Tough Light Bar, 3/8'', .063'' - https://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/599958415.htm?Click=2139&utm_source=GooglePLA&utm_Medium=CSE&dfw_tracker=10332-599958415&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjJOQBhCkARIsAEKMtO0uTmaLCfypXV0Tz08GCkWKfa7FRB4M_quw2VJrV2ulz9DqksdPIyAaAniQEALw_wcB

 

[SkwerI]

What about the Titanium GB bars?

I ran GB bars 10 years ago, then they disappeared. Didn't know they were still available in the US.

 

[huskihl]

What about the Titanium GB bars?

That’s one that I’m not certain about so I didn’t go into much detail. As far as I know the titanium‘s are OK. My 36 inch .404 set up it is an old GB and it has to have 50 tanks of fuel through it and there is no rail damage

 

[huskihl]

It’s also note worthy that the new light weight husky bars are different. In the US they’re the same as a Sugi lightweight, and in Europe they are Tsumura

 

[BIGTWIG]

I run Cannon 36” and 42” .404 bars on my @huskihl xs395xp saws.

 

[BIGTWIG]

@huskihl

 

[flushcut]

That big stump makes your bar look small.

 

[SkwerI]

That big stump makes your bar look small.

It's the cold air.

 

[BIGTWIG]

#bigstumpenergy
@flushcut
@huskihl

 

[huskihl]

@huskihl View attachment 118048

Nice 372 and 24” bar, Shawty

 

[BIGTWIG]

 

[Magnus]

Sometimes the best is not the most cost efficient.

Another thing to keep in mind is that hard rails beat the snot out of sidelink and cutters. Best is if they have about same hardness. For those that run saws a lot there is money in experimenting a bit and find a good combo.
Rotating several chains on bar and sprocket so they wear evenly give more runtime out of bars and sprocket/rim.
I always replace rim when replacing bar.

 

[Nutball]

I wonder how well it would work to chrome plate the rails on top and especially inside the groove to slow down the rate of wear?

I just replace the sprocket whenever. Sometimes it is after a few bars, other times it is at the same time or before changing the bar. They wear very differently depending on how they are used.

 

[Magnus]

It needs to wear evenly, rails, chains, sprocket/rims. If not you get eccessive wear and less runtime.
That is why rotating chains on bar/rim shows its value.

I tested this many times here. New Power match bar, 10 chains, new rim. Two custemers using them in same work, doing same thing with same saws. The one rotating chains has a lot left after the ten chains are done. 4-5 more chains mostly.
The other one not rotating don't go thru the ten chains and blow a top or two as well.

Chrome has been tried and it is not working well. Better to harden the rails to the hardness you wish to have.

 

[lxskllr]

That's interesting. When I put a chain on, it stays until the chain's done, or I swap it out for a different length/profile. Maybe I should put more chains into action.