Beginner Fun with Stumps -- and more

Where the chain is joined into a loop, there is sometimes an irregular sequence that can be a useful starting/ ending point. The Sharpie on the cleaned cutter's top-plate is useful, as Butch says.

When you're going from barely-not-sharp back to sharp, it's useful to have a visible reference point, as it can be hard to differentiate without solid scrutiny if you're only putting on 2 strokes.

Two light strokes per tank, as a minimal guideline can give you lots of practice, and keep cutting razor sharp. The sharper the chain starts, the lighter the strokes. Quick and easy if done by hand or guide, on the bar.
 
About the gullet, the concern isn't for the file's access because it can make its own. The problem is that the cutting edge has some trouble to sink in the wood and cut its nice shaving. At most, it can't do it at all. If the bottom of the gullet isn't filled down, that lives a little bit of steel outside of the actual width of the cutting edge. Two downsides : the bits drag on the kerf's sides, slowing down the chain and pushing the cutters slightly toward the kerf's middle (the kerf becomes narrower), if the unfilled bottom's gullet is big enough, it makes a parasitic edge which pushes the cutting edge out of the wood.
 
Too much in the gullet will prevent the file from fitting the right way, making the right shaped profile. You will lose the 'working corner/ leading corner' (not sure what its called, technically).


Also, as you file the cutter more, you need a smaller round file, because the cutter is shorter.
 
I almost added it to my video: what I do if I can't find an odd link as a starting point (which half the time I just miss it) I pick any drive link and file flat across the top of it, maybe even on both sides of a tooth. Just file a significant mark on a tie strap, and that shiny spot is your start/finish line. Reshine it if needed each time you go to sharpen.
 
I keep a Sharpie marker in each saw case..mark the starting point like Butch.

I have an old version of this that I use when I sharpen...keep it in the trailer with the saws:
 

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  • #33
Thanks all.

I have one of those in my shop, Gary ... I think it's 1.5x (no built in light).

They have 2x and 3x reading glasses now for about $1 ... may try them.
 
If outside I try to use the sun at such an angle that it reflects off the edge I am filing. If I see a reflection it's still dull. No reflection...good.

On a bench I'll set up a light to try to get that same effect.
 
I can see the threads in my arborwear pants if I use my 5 y.o. cell camera's 4x's zoom. I can see well enough, but will use it to show my groundman what's up. He's coming along well.
 
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  • #36
ha, Sean, you are full of ideas, always helpful. (I think my Galaxy S5 is around 4 or 5 y.o............ trying to justify getting an Apple iPhone, version 6 on up for the improved camera)

Gary... correction... mine is 2x


So is it just the top plate that you care about getting the edge with no reflection?

.... still that is only part of the goal, right? ... there is still the hook and side plate?
 
The top plate, front working corner, front end, takes the beating. By the time you get the top plate right, the side plate is right. You need the right bevel angles and C-shape on the side plate, established by file size, and proper depth (about 10% above the top plate), and correct filing angle (usually 25 chisel, 30 micro-chisel/chipper/ round-top, 10 ripping/ milling, without tipping the file up or down--0*).


While learning, keep a new chain on hand for reference, comparison and contrasting to you chain being filed.

File early, file often, and don't cut dirt. Yesterday, my employee blunted the chain on a ground saw to the point of it not bucking a small log when I picked it up. He might have cut a shingle in the mix of branches off the roof (tree in roof). Rushing while cutting will mean a bunch of practice at filing, and making no money.
 
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  • #38
when hand filing do you just sort of estimate the 10% of the file above the top plate?
.... this seems one of the more difficult concepts/skills to me.
 
The bottom of the gullet should be basically flat, as it is when new. This will result in 10% above, if using the right sized file, which will give the right profile.


People often have the 'floor' of the gullet toward the rear of the tooth rising, by pulling up or not pushing down enough.
 
Red sharpie for marking start point...stands out better than black.
 
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  • #42
thanks Bermy!
thanks again Sean.

ha, Kyle, what's wrong with Apple? .... ha, I had an iphone 4, then got a Galaxy s5 (4 years ago?).... now want to upgrade and want the "uniformity" of apple... e.g. iphone 6 maybe.
 
They are a horrible company, that had never invented anything. They steal ideas, polish and market them, and then claim it was their idea in the first place. They had a problem in China at their manufacturing plants, because too many people were committing suicide by jumping to their deaths out of the "dorm rooms". They were being forced to work so many hours in terrible conditions, that jumping to their deaths was a better alternative. Apple's solution? Circus nets outside the dorms. Not to mention everything costs money with them, their phasing out of their own products so you have to keep buying them, and the fact that they censor free speech.

Steve jobs was such an asshole, it's legendary. Books have been written. If an apple employee was possessed, and required an exorcism, they would likely say "Steve jobs sucks cocks in hell. " To which the priest would have to say "tell us something we don't know." And you don't want to buy stuff from gay Satan worshippers do you? :lol:
 
=> Had first try at using a stump grinder -- I think I'm an expert now.

> Stump grinder doesn't appear to be rocket science. :)
My friend rented it from Home Depot for 24 hours for ~$300
I had to leave right after I took this picture of grinding on one of these 4' stumps...
but I estimate it took 1.5 or 2 hours to grind it down (need to ask him).
I've been curious about the Barretto Grinders -- I've used a ditcher from them to lay some drain pipe in the front yard, that looks to be basically the same machine but with a stump grinding wheel. We almost rented one during one of the big belts-n-bearings downtimes on our Vermeer SC252 stump grinder. I'd be curious to know the actual grind time on the 4' pecan stump, for reference.

Of course, I've been eyeing this Greenteeth Quadwheel from Tree Stuff: http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=14782
14782.jpg
 
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