lumberjack
Young man on the go
It's how he explained the picture, so yeah.
Barber chair
- Thread starter woodworkingboy
- Start date
- Replies 128
- Views 24K
J
JamesTX
Guest
So, why's a barber chair so dangerous?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #28
Interesting post, Stig. It leads me to think that a heavy loaded tree doesn't much need an open face, maybe it's even a disadvantage, if the direction of fall is a given due to the added weight. The point is to get it over with adding the least amount of tension to the back.
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #29
A barber chair .....the back and upper part of the tree can split off and flop down upon itself, break apart and roll off on your side. Sometimes it's a lot of wood that gets included in the split off. If you're in the way when it breaks apart in back, or underneath when it breaks and comes down...sometimes the upper part shoots back too, it's not a good thing.
This photo is the back of the tree after the bc, looking towards the direction of fall. You can just see the stump underneath the shattered wood.
This photo is the back of the tree after the bc, looking towards the direction of fall. You can just see the stump underneath the shattered wood.
Attachments
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
Because the tree can cover a lot of ground in a hurry, and you may not have a viable escape route. Of the barber chairs I have seen most just collapse on top of themselves, but some can be extremely unpredictable. It usually happens to me on small diameter stuff, like 6-8 inch ash trees, especially if I don't proceed with the backcut. They just open up about 15-20 feet up the tree, shoot back, and then fall off the split off part. I try not to wast any time getting the back cut in on trees like that, and if they start to split, I get the hell out of Dodge, and screw the saw!
Dave
J
JamesTX
Guest
Unpredictability - got it. Thanks.
On a really leaning tree you cant do much about changing the direction of fall anyway. It's mostly about saving the log and your life!!
Last edited:
T
Treeslayer
Guest
Ah, one of my favorite techniques. And I've been a distance runner all my life, so I can haul ass. even with a saw.
Burnham
Woods walker
Try a read of this thread, some good discussion.
http://gypoclimber.com/showthread.php?t=9410
http://gypoclimber.com/showthread.php?t=9410
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #35
Good reading, thanks Burhham.
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
This shows a Flash/BarberChair.htm -by overload(compromising the integrity of the spar) because of early close that doesn't give enough relief, offering a 'split decision' model. The hard forward lean presents similar too much force- not enough (or fast enough) relief i think. Also trouble pinching in face of bar; and so not being able to get very deep in/ very far back for side to side control. Thus the early close gives split decision as force rushes forward and face pushes back, and the hard head lean from not enough relief from rear as force rushes forward i think.
Really the most inline X farthest back on axis of lean is going to be the fibers bearing most of the tension force of support, so eliminate the time consuming fiber cutting that provides about Zer0 holding force to the sides (as shown).
i like a trianglish, winged cut like brought up by Eric and pictured by Gord (as set up for final backcut. This gives 2 things: far back fiber to hold, and less across fiber to cut as you come thru. If the path back is altered some, the rear spread can be inline with the lean for most power of hold. So i'd only do like pic exactly if pure head lean/no side force Some dutch on side lean side only can help here too. If some sidelean i'd turn the tail of remaining backcut (as preset for final backcut) to be inline with the lean more. The reduced amount of fiber on sides in precutting, gives less fiber to cut in final back cut, so saw is moving faster/providing quicker relief. Similar in bucking, but with no spread at 'hinge'.
You can always slow the saw down, but ya can't speed it up(beyond full bore already). So this allows fuller control range by allowing the speed up factor (same power, less fiber on final backcut). It allows the fastest backcut, and you can always slow down... In tree, i'd more quick setup, with more of a strict triangle of holding fiber in precuts for final backcutting. This allows full breadth of fiber at hinge, and reduced fiber on 'run to hinge'. Giving more broad range of haw quick/hard you threw the force into the hinge, at fingertip control. Once again skewing tail/trail (of holding wood/final run for final backcut) to offset side force (dis-tracking from face). the whole theory also lends well to tapered hinge. i consider this all rather al'Dent'e.
Really the most inline X farthest back on axis of lean is going to be the fibers bearing most of the tension force of support, so eliminate the time consuming fiber cutting that provides about Zer0 holding force to the sides (as shown).
i like a trianglish, winged cut like brought up by Eric and pictured by Gord (as set up for final backcut. This gives 2 things: far back fiber to hold, and less across fiber to cut as you come thru. If the path back is altered some, the rear spread can be inline with the lean for most power of hold. So i'd only do like pic exactly if pure head lean/no side force Some dutch on side lean side only can help here too. If some sidelean i'd turn the tail of remaining backcut (as preset for final backcut) to be inline with the lean more. The reduced amount of fiber on sides in precutting, gives less fiber to cut in final back cut, so saw is moving faster/providing quicker relief. Similar in bucking, but with no spread at 'hinge'.
You can always slow the saw down, but ya can't speed it up(beyond full bore already). So this allows fuller control range by allowing the speed up factor (same power, less fiber on final backcut). It allows the fastest backcut, and you can always slow down... In tree, i'd more quick setup, with more of a strict triangle of holding fiber in precuts for final backcutting. This allows full breadth of fiber at hinge, and reduced fiber on 'run to hinge'. Giving more broad range of haw quick/hard you threw the force into the hinge, at fingertip control. Once again skewing tail/trail (of holding wood/final run for final backcut) to offset side force (dis-tracking from face). the whole theory also lends well to tapered hinge. i consider this all rather al'Dent'e.
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
I love that animation, Kenny!
T
TGCIII
Guest
thats a mouthful, sir. my hat's off to u
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #39
Informative post, Kenny, was not aware that an unintentional dutchman could be an ingredient for barber chair. That could have some very negative consequences when tossing a big top.
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
Notice how it is about relief as the equal and opposite empowermeant of force. Pressure from back or pressure from front, fighing the onward flow of force.
Extending that, i make a distinction between a fully/generically dutched face, and 1 that only dutches the lean side. Because, dutching 1 side, offers the other as relief...
http://www.mytreelessons.com/Dutch%20Push%20in%201%20side%20of%20Face.htm
You can get into trouble with this, use sparingly in felling, mostly for lower power stuff like limbing (in air) and bucking. Use by giving not only tension steering, but compression steering too(as equal and opposite use of forces to same end). Drier/colder/ deader wood that might not be as good for stretch/tension steering, might lend itself better for this push/compression steering and easing forces IMLHO. the amount of dutch pressure can vary the mechanics from a push, to a pivotal change in the mechanincs...after the hinge strength is set by first folding!!
Extending that, i make a distinction between a fully/generically dutched face, and 1 that only dutches the lean side. Because, dutching 1 side, offers the other as relief...
http://www.mytreelessons.com/Dutch%20Push%20in%201%20side%20of%20Face.htm
You can get into trouble with this, use sparingly in felling, mostly for lower power stuff like limbing (in air) and bucking. Use by giving not only tension steering, but compression steering too(as equal and opposite use of forces to same end). Drier/colder/ deader wood that might not be as good for stretch/tension steering, might lend itself better for this push/compression steering and easing forces IMLHO. the amount of dutch pressure can vary the mechanics from a push, to a pivotal change in the mechanincs...after the hinge strength is set by first folding!!
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #41
Previously never considered push from the more rapidly closing side of the hinge, only that it was helping to negate pull when used on the lean side. If your theory is the case, considering that would be an aid in crafting the hinge, depending on wood condition as you suggest. Interesting to experiment with if the opportunities arise. For me, estimating the weight factor, beyond which such would not work, could only be a gut feeling at this point.
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
i think, that left alone, generic hinge would provide pull from both sides rear when loaded and open; and push from both sides from, when loaded and closed. Very simple machine, but very, very loaded by weight X length X angle X resistance to bend. Any tweaks to key positions in the simple scenario/under such loads, can greatly change the total disposition powerfully. Sometimes these can be the simplest miss-take or polishing finer. The system will try to balance out to front focal of face Nature-ally by pulling harder from the control side opposite lean on open(pulling towards center) and pushing harder on lean side on closed (pushing harder to center).
Splitting the faces(not working generically as one) can eliminate pull towards lean side (from rear lean side) and pushing towards lean from front non-lean side. So, we can about eliminate these if we can get the close on lean side while still open on pull/control side(taking forces serving towards lean and keeping those serving towards center by using own lean against itself to balance). Plus, these forces would be in opposite directions (push up, pull down); not being inline (where they would work on canceling each other out) they must then therefore be torqued/ leveraged.
i think the hinge strength is created by the forward force at first folding, and you can take about that amount of fibers (that it takes to fold) and reapportion the fibers to different patterns. These patterns can have some that are more key against side pull forces than others. The tapered hinge in particular is an example of reapportioning the forward bent fibers in a pattern to give more sidewards control. The more sideward and powerful the force, the more the tapered hinge maid is empowered to help etc.
But, if the close force in face really takes over(sets super harder than any other points/becomes pivot), it would become the pivot, after the hinge strength is set; totally changing the mechanics, by giving more leverage(by angle and length) to the already stronger hinge and at same time taking said angle and length from the load side(by less distance and angle to CG from the new pivot).
Once again i find the patterns for this imagery model in Dent's bible/alDent'e well as in practice. i find the patterns workable in tree as well as bucking(which way is the force, which way do i want it to go, what mechanical commands can i place in hinge/face?) , but they are usually presented in more observable felling scenarios. This is the outer edge of the forces, so in felling is the most dangerous point for them, much safer, and more abundant opportunities to practice in tree and bucking. Bucking gets tough when model is complicated by a variety of forces and pressures in different locations and directions. But all in all, using force to favour and making it disarm itself as well.
Splitting the faces(not working generically as one) can eliminate pull towards lean side (from rear lean side) and pushing towards lean from front non-lean side. So, we can about eliminate these if we can get the close on lean side while still open on pull/control side(taking forces serving towards lean and keeping those serving towards center by using own lean against itself to balance). Plus, these forces would be in opposite directions (push up, pull down); not being inline (where they would work on canceling each other out) they must then therefore be torqued/ leveraged.
i think the hinge strength is created by the forward force at first folding, and you can take about that amount of fibers (that it takes to fold) and reapportion the fibers to different patterns. These patterns can have some that are more key against side pull forces than others. The tapered hinge in particular is an example of reapportioning the forward bent fibers in a pattern to give more sidewards control. The more sideward and powerful the force, the more the tapered hinge maid is empowered to help etc.
But, if the close force in face really takes over(sets super harder than any other points/becomes pivot), it would become the pivot, after the hinge strength is set; totally changing the mechanics, by giving more leverage(by angle and length) to the already stronger hinge and at same time taking said angle and length from the load side(by less distance and angle to CG from the new pivot).
Once again i find the patterns for this imagery model in Dent's bible/alDent'e well as in practice. i find the patterns workable in tree as well as bucking(which way is the force, which way do i want it to go, what mechanical commands can i place in hinge/face?) , but they are usually presented in more observable felling scenarios. This is the outer edge of the forces, so in felling is the most dangerous point for them, much safer, and more abundant opportunities to practice in tree and bucking. Bucking gets tough when model is complicated by a variety of forces and pressures in different locations and directions. But all in all, using force to favour and making it disarm itself as well.
SkwerI
Treehouser
I'm sure Kenny understands this stuff but I'll be damned if he can communicate it to others. I can't make heads or tails of the previous post. 
How I think the Coos Bay cut succeeds is because the side cuts allow you to reduce the amount of holding wood without triggering the fall. That way when you do make the back cut, there's less holding wood available to snap and cause a barber chair. Putting in a notch on the downside of the trunk cuts into the portion of trunk under the most compression, and therefore is more likely to trigger stem failure. The wood on the sides is under less stress so more of it can be cut with less likelihood of stem failure. When you do get around to making the final back cut, the amount of wood you're cutting is less and therefore it can be cut faster. Basically you're trying to cut it faster than it can fail.
How I think the Coos Bay cut succeeds is because the side cuts allow you to reduce the amount of holding wood without triggering the fall. That way when you do make the back cut, there's less holding wood available to snap and cause a barber chair. Putting in a notch on the downside of the trunk cuts into the portion of trunk under the most compression, and therefore is more likely to trigger stem failure. The wood on the sides is under less stress so more of it can be cut with less likelihood of stem failure. When you do get around to making the final back cut, the amount of wood you're cutting is less and therefore it can be cut faster. Basically you're trying to cut it faster than it can fail.
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
i did mean to give this link as visual-aid, but then more explanation too.. Dutch Push in 1 side of Face.htm
i'm glad we can agree on the Coos somewhat. i jest have the slant of the faster speed of the cut providing more releif quicker, to lessen the go-don't go effect causing the barber (like in the full face dutch kerf causing-most notably the cut coming most perpendicular to fiber and bypassing it's matching face cut)
Dent's bible "Professional Timber Falling ~ a Procedural Approach" shows a similar cut. i just think more holding power with less fibre can be had by 'tilting' the triangle to directly be opposite of any sidelean. So would only be straight back when no side lean. Also, the 'dished out' effect Eric pictures improves by removing even more fiber safely. Usually i'd be less particular, spend less time(just make more of a Dent triangle than dished out sides) in tree, where there is less space anyway. i'd do it to throw harder across etc. by making 020 'faster', providing more relief per second; with less fiber to cut through.
i spent much time pouring over Dent's words and illustrations, experimeanting in the field and air. i found many lessons expanding the wood hinging theories beyond felling, to bucking and climbing. Many more such cuts in a single tree are in air and bucking/non-felling; though felling does give all the force at once to play with and observe. i maid a chart-legend from his legend to have as bookmark and also not to have to flip back to find dogeared page 15 without losing my place.
One thing for sure he shows, It isn't just a face and backcut and maybe taper backcut is all there is. In his models, many precuts can be maid for setting up the final backcut to maximum, some even effecting the face.
The stuff on dutching is immense in how it can go right and wrong, because of how it calls and conjures up the forces of the same tree so powerfully. i recommend a lot of feeling this one out in bucking carefully; then some climbing. Some tree, when not much matters. Just remember to offer relief to 1 side/ don't dutch all the way across. Consider the wood and the side lean. Also, you are on your own hear, please be care-full.
Note: Dent's models for this only work in more extreme side and head forces i think. If we don't get hard close at dutch, then all we have done is shortened the hinge/lost. It is setting a smaller hinge for same load at worse angle (thus stronger hinge forced), then adding the close to change pivot etc. that changes things. for everything is how well you have set hinge tension and where the compression/pivot from there is. And the close changes that key compression/pivot position; taking away angle and length from the load side, while giving better angle and length to the hinge/support side of the compression/ pivot.
drDent goes Dutch
i usually recommend some hinge all the way across; with wide taper to control side, and kerf in front of hinge on compression/offside (offside from the cutter's control side away from lean) for more moderate stuff. In tree i'd go more like his prescription for serving limb across more, by giving tapered hinge with the bottom of the hinge kerfed out. Undercut kerf first when lots of upward holding fiber, then continue around for 'floor' of face cut in 1 motion, then complete face with vertical facing cut that aligned at top, but not at bottom(because kerf extends back further than top). Thus, the hinge could force to do without it's full length, the kerf would close at some point and hinge would have it's full length from new compression point to end of taper. Gravity force was downward kerf close would push towards center of face (more upwards). But, a lot of it comes down to not making the same face generically across to control the same forces, when the force is to 1 side or the other, and NOT generically the same across, so maximum would in response, not be the same across. Tapered hinge does this from 1 (tension) side of the equal and opposite reaction; these topics then carry that war also to the other side, which happens also to be the pivot of the whole worx, therefore helps to define about everything.
i think to really understand something, you have to see it in it's nakedness/extremes, then plot what % of it's extreme force you'd be invoking at any time. Like a chemist distilling something down to chemically pure, understanding at that level his/her target and then mixing with other (re)agents and observing. Then also, as they go on, being able to recognize immediately the influences of each component to understand collected data more, because they know it's properties int he purest form, and can more immediately pick them out in transition etc.. These (to me) are the extremes of hinging. As large powers they should only be invoked purpose-fully and not haphazardly. Maybe, they are best left at what not to do (especially dutched); but even then, the WHY gives the arguemeant so much more wait.
Sorry for bringing this too the imprisoned of non-technical discussion!
i'm glad we can agree on the Coos somewhat. i jest have the slant of the faster speed of the cut providing more releif quicker, to lessen the go-don't go effect causing the barber (like in the full face dutch kerf causing-most notably the cut coming most perpendicular to fiber and bypassing it's matching face cut)
Dent's bible "Professional Timber Falling ~ a Procedural Approach" shows a similar cut. i just think more holding power with less fibre can be had by 'tilting' the triangle to directly be opposite of any sidelean. So would only be straight back when no side lean. Also, the 'dished out' effect Eric pictures improves by removing even more fiber safely. Usually i'd be less particular, spend less time(just make more of a Dent triangle than dished out sides) in tree, where there is less space anyway. i'd do it to throw harder across etc. by making 020 'faster', providing more relief per second; with less fiber to cut through.
i spent much time pouring over Dent's words and illustrations, experimeanting in the field and air. i found many lessons expanding the wood hinging theories beyond felling, to bucking and climbing. Many more such cuts in a single tree are in air and bucking/non-felling; though felling does give all the force at once to play with and observe. i maid a chart-legend from his legend to have as bookmark and also not to have to flip back to find dogeared page 15 without losing my place.
One thing for sure he shows, It isn't just a face and backcut and maybe taper backcut is all there is. In his models, many precuts can be maid for setting up the final backcut to maximum, some even effecting the face.
The stuff on dutching is immense in how it can go right and wrong, because of how it calls and conjures up the forces of the same tree so powerfully. i recommend a lot of feeling this one out in bucking carefully; then some climbing. Some tree, when not much matters. Just remember to offer relief to 1 side/ don't dutch all the way across. Consider the wood and the side lean. Also, you are on your own hear, please be care-full.
Note: Dent's models for this only work in more extreme side and head forces i think. If we don't get hard close at dutch, then all we have done is shortened the hinge/lost. It is setting a smaller hinge for same load at worse angle (thus stronger hinge forced), then adding the close to change pivot etc. that changes things. for everything is how well you have set hinge tension and where the compression/pivot from there is. And the close changes that key compression/pivot position; taking away angle and length from the load side, while giving better angle and length to the hinge/support side of the compression/ pivot.
drDent goes Dutch
i usually recommend some hinge all the way across; with wide taper to control side, and kerf in front of hinge on compression/offside (offside from the cutter's control side away from lean) for more moderate stuff. In tree i'd go more like his prescription for serving limb across more, by giving tapered hinge with the bottom of the hinge kerfed out. Undercut kerf first when lots of upward holding fiber, then continue around for 'floor' of face cut in 1 motion, then complete face with vertical facing cut that aligned at top, but not at bottom(because kerf extends back further than top). Thus, the hinge could force to do without it's full length, the kerf would close at some point and hinge would have it's full length from new compression point to end of taper. Gravity force was downward kerf close would push towards center of face (more upwards). But, a lot of it comes down to not making the same face generically across to control the same forces, when the force is to 1 side or the other, and NOT generically the same across, so maximum would in response, not be the same across. Tapered hinge does this from 1 (tension) side of the equal and opposite reaction; these topics then carry that war also to the other side, which happens also to be the pivot of the whole worx, therefore helps to define about everything.
i think to really understand something, you have to see it in it's nakedness/extremes, then plot what % of it's extreme force you'd be invoking at any time. Like a chemist distilling something down to chemically pure, understanding at that level his/her target and then mixing with other (re)agents and observing. Then also, as they go on, being able to recognize immediately the influences of each component to understand collected data more, because they know it's properties int he purest form, and can more immediately pick them out in transition etc.. These (to me) are the extremes of hinging. As large powers they should only be invoked purpose-fully and not haphazardly. Maybe, they are best left at what not to do (especially dutched); but even then, the WHY gives the arguemeant so much more wait.
Sorry for bringing this too the imprisoned of non-technical discussion!
SkwerI
Treehouser
Ken, this thread was about felling trees with substantial headlean or otherwise weighted to substantially increase the risk of barber chair. Your second image above is backwards from Stig's earlier image describing the cut he uses on felling these types of trees.
Oh, I couldn't read all of your post. Too many incorrect synonyms that make your posts nonsensical and incomprehendable. Sorry Bud, but I don't think you even know the difference yourself any more.
too ≠ to
jest ≠ just
it's ≠ its
hear ≠ here
maid ≠ made
and so on and so on.
Oh, I couldn't read all of your post. Too many incorrect synonyms that make your posts nonsensical and incomprehendable. Sorry Bud, but I don't think you even know the difference yourself any more.
too ≠ to
jest ≠ just
it's ≠ its
hear ≠ here
maid ≠ made
and so on and so on.
Al Smith
Mac Daddy
Let's face it ,it's hard to redirect a head leaner .I can get maybe 45 degrees at best . I've tried to do 90 but never had any luck .Besides that I'm kinda chicken chit and use the chains and binders .Then again ,I'm not a pro faller and don't run into this stuff on a regular bassis .
Having rambled on about that I don't cut for grade so if the bottom 10 or so feet get screwed up ,it's just firewood . Others aren't able to do as I so must use better methods .My only concern is not damaging something most importantly myself .
Having rambled on about that I don't cut for grade so if the bottom 10 or so feet get screwed up ,it's just firewood . Others aren't able to do as I so must use better methods .My only concern is not damaging something most importantly myself .
T
TheTreeSpyder
Guest
i'm sorry i lean more towards the expressive, poetic arrangements; but a lot of my junk is about visual imagery and feel. Also, about being small and ushering, rather than being bigger than a tree and forcing type of mindset. There are many life lessons in these forces to me, guess i did it so long as to see life in perspective of it. i also try to offset the seriousness of all this by kidding etc., like purposefully as to cool brain...
Too, i must apologize the drawing i was referring to was Gord's and not Eric's. But, still, it was similar to Dent's triangle(by any other name), only Gord\Eric takes it a step further by dishing out the sides. i'd just tearup offside behind hinge and leave all holding wood slanted to control side(like immense tapered), then dish out as my pre-backcuts/setup. Then finish down to tapered that was there all along. sirStig's strategy is a totally different animal, and have never played with it. i kinda don't like all the force funneled to one point, not spread on hinge across; but, i've never tried it..
The pix posted once again were not my own, but from Dent's book. The whole point of his writings(as i looked and distilled to commonalities) is direction left/right, north/south don't matter. There is just lean force/ direction, the desired target lay and strategy that takes the tree force and brings you to target. So, that is the mindset that i distilled the mechanics out of what he was showing, then confidentally turned the model sidewards etc. and broke down the forces and directions and followed suit. Sometimes even using same model to fold up to crane pull more balanced. So, to me if lean direction vs. same is approximately the same
If we are taking the felling model of force and target directions to bucking and climbing we can easily look at more folds further than 45 off lean. Especially when trying for a near horizontal slide of a horizontal limb. Then too, even more so, for same horizontal paths in rigging. Bucking wood by the model can give some real up close, full timeline examinations. But at the same time (bucking) can get force across spar and also compressing down into it too as definitely unique situations/lessons not as directly shared to climbing and felling cuts.
A long time ago someone else said it best:
Too, i must apologize the drawing i was referring to was Gord's and not Eric's. But, still, it was similar to Dent's triangle(by any other name), only Gord\Eric takes it a step further by dishing out the sides. i'd just tearup offside behind hinge and leave all holding wood slanted to control side(like immense tapered), then dish out as my pre-backcuts/setup. Then finish down to tapered that was there all along. sirStig's strategy is a totally different animal, and have never played with it. i kinda don't like all the force funneled to one point, not spread on hinge across; but, i've never tried it..
The pix posted once again were not my own, but from Dent's book. The whole point of his writings(as i looked and distilled to commonalities) is direction left/right, north/south don't matter. There is just lean force/ direction, the desired target lay and strategy that takes the tree force and brings you to target. So, that is the mindset that i distilled the mechanics out of what he was showing, then confidentally turned the model sidewards etc. and broke down the forces and directions and followed suit. Sometimes even using same model to fold up to crane pull more balanced. So, to me if lean direction vs. same is approximately the same
If we are taking the felling model of force and target directions to bucking and climbing we can easily look at more folds further than 45 off lean. Especially when trying for a near horizontal slide of a horizontal limb. Then too, even more so, for same horizontal paths in rigging. Bucking wood by the model can give some real up close, full timeline examinations. But at the same time (bucking) can get force across spar and also compressing down into it too as definitely unique situations/lessons not as directly shared to climbing and felling cuts.
A long time ago someone else said it best:
"Nature to be Commanded;
must be Obeyed"
-Sir Francis Bacon
must be Obeyed"
-Sir Francis Bacon
sawinredneck
Treehouser
I had a REALLY BAD ONE today!! Sorry, no pics.
30" DBH standing dead white Oak, fair lean to it, weighted heavy to the lean.
I figured it for an easy drop, made a smallish face cut, made the backcut about an inch and a half higher. Just as I was pulling the saw out to wedge it the wind comes up and over it goes, splintering up a good twenty foot!! I cut it off about 32", it left fiber on the stump twelve feet high.
I had thought of making a plunge cut on the back cut then cutting back to a small strap then cutting it. But I doubt that would have proven much.
Ok, I know my face was too small, but I was falling into a head wind and just wanted to get it down quick before the wind picked up more. I had no idea it would wrap back around me like it did!
Where else did I screw up?
30" DBH standing dead white Oak, fair lean to it, weighted heavy to the lean.
I figured it for an easy drop, made a smallish face cut, made the backcut about an inch and a half higher. Just as I was pulling the saw out to wedge it the wind comes up and over it goes, splintering up a good twenty foot!! I cut it off about 32", it left fiber on the stump twelve feet high.
I had thought of making a plunge cut on the back cut then cutting back to a small strap then cutting it. But I doubt that would have proven much.
Ok, I know my face was too small, but I was falling into a head wind and just wanted to get it down quick before the wind picked up more. I had no idea it would wrap back around me like it did!
Where else did I screw up?
woodworkingboy
TreeHouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #49
Forgetting dead can be contagious.
