Eat any bacon! I don't buy it for the house. It's messy to cook, and I'd eat a whole package at a time if it were here. However! If I had the practical use of adding tack to canola oil, I might be willing to suffer through a pound or ten of bacon :^)
Bar oil 4.95 a gallon
- Thread starter flushcut
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Burnham
Woods walker
Seems like it would take a whole lot of bacon to render enough fat to be a usable amount as bar oil additive 
.
Is this maybe a joke?
.Is this maybe a joke?
Treeaddict
Treehouser
Raj
TreeHouser
I watched the video on bar oil tests and also found HK to be a decent oil, behind Poulan pro/STP bar oil. HK is $21.99/gal up here. Mind you, all my tests are how much stretch I get after milling and how much film is left on the drive links after a cut. I need to service my bars quite a bit more with cheap oil.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Turn those pumps up, get out as much oil as possible.. Much cheaper than wear on rim/bar/chains.
Most important job the bar oil do is not lubricate. Its heat transport...
It absorbs the heat and take it with as it fly off. That provide a cooling affect.
Cooler running bar= less wear.
I ran canola/rape seed oil bought in foodstore now a very long time to. I have yet to experience the chains binding up from it. I hear others do..
I noticed it when cutting birch and larch, a couple years ago. Morning after chain was stuck in bar groove. I will guess that is the tree's sap more than oil as it is not with the wood I mostly cut (Elm, Ash, Beech).
I run my saws with pumps on max output. An nice string on bench when testing. Perhaps that do something? Most customers do it too here. Around 3/4 of them. Cost/year of running is noticeably less when. Very obvious if the books are current and honest.
Most important job the bar oil do is not lubricate. Its heat transport...
It absorbs the heat and take it with as it fly off. That provide a cooling affect.
Cooler running bar= less wear.
I ran canola/rape seed oil bought in foodstore now a very long time to. I have yet to experience the chains binding up from it. I hear others do..
I noticed it when cutting birch and larch, a couple years ago. Morning after chain was stuck in bar groove. I will guess that is the tree's sap more than oil as it is not with the wood I mostly cut (Elm, Ash, Beech).
I run my saws with pumps on max output. An nice string on bench when testing. Perhaps that do something? Most customers do it too here. Around 3/4 of them. Cost/year of running is noticeably less when. Very obvious if the books are current and honest.
Kaveman
Treehouser
Agreed, Magnus. Max out the pump. It's the first thing I do with any saw.
CurSedVoyce
California Hillbilly
And your fly zipped up.
lumberjack
Young man on the go
I paid ~$16/gallon for my last gallon of bar oil, $23/gallon for synthetic diesel oil.
Magnus
TreeHouser
I think that is something most do that use saw daily. I did anyway...
Most that use saw daily and service here do as they rotate several chains/bar and flip bar at same time.
Most have 5 or more chains per bar and rim.
Cobleskill
Treehouser
Bar oil at Runnings, which is like TSC, is $8 for Harvest King or Mystic. It would seem there were other stores selling in that ballpark. I bought a case of both a while back and like them both.
I mentioned yesterday I haven't been keeping up on saw maintenance like I should. I have too many saws now, so I'll go out and use three of them, then not feel like maintaining three saws when I'm done, so I let it go. I just got in from doing my 661. It still has mud splashed all over it from yesterday, but I cleaned/dressed the bar, cleaned under the clutch cover, and did the air filter. It really wasn't in bad shape. I must've cleaned it recently. I'm still not sure what's causing the curving cuts. Everything looked pretty reasonable. Might be a subtle error that only shows up in big wood.
Burnham
Woods walker
Consider this, John. Our much missed friend Jed asks something similar.
Level Stumps on Steep Ground
Hey Guys. Don't expect to get to much of a response with this one, but I'm really curious... We've been getting to fall some really tall Doug Fir stubs lately on some "steeper than a cow's face" ground, and, as you might expect, everyone's cuts (both face and back) tend to slope downhill with...
www.masterblasterhome.com
Level Stumps on Steep Ground
Hey Guys. Don't expect to get to much of a response with this one, but I'm really curious... We've been getting to fall some really tall Doug Fir stubs lately on some "steeper than a cow's face" ground, and, as you might expect, everyone's cuts (both face and back) tend to slope downhill with...
www.masterblasterhome.com
I'm not sure that's my problem Burnham. It was only a 25" bar. However, I did consider I was putting some English into the cut, and once it started, it just propagated. So, I guess it could be the same problem. Just a way lamer version of it. It really was impressive radius I was putting in the wood. I'll have to pay closer attention to how I'm handling the saw. I don't frequently work in large wood.
Magnus
TreeHouser
I meant most of my customers that run daily do. Most casual users I see here don't. I try less to convince as they do't have as much gain in it.
As the nagging and promise of saved €$£ got the pro to try listen how to save €$£.
Money is what they work to get, if it can easily be saved a couple bucks, why not?
As they could see it pretty fast it was not much arguing once they got the idea to try.
I see the testing and finding out what works or is BS as my job. I like and enjoy it more too I think.
I can easily spend a day testing chains, to get a feel for what is what. Most users don't.
They can benefit from my tests or not, I really don't care. I do like the feeling I get when they spend less and still have better stuff...
Marc-Antoine
TreeHouser
Check the wear in the bar's groove too. If the rails need to be squared, chances are that the sides of the groove are worn differently. You can see that by measuring how far the chain tilt on both sides when pushed sideways.
Magnus
TreeHouser
Groove, rail, drivelink, tiestrap all wear and how they wear is a tell of how the chain is set and maintained.
Closing rail help nothing if wear is in grooves bottom.
Some solid bars can be cut in groove, rail lowered and get like new, but most is not hardened deep enough today. Older bars is mostly hardened centimeters down, newer, millimeters..
Renovating bars is not worth the money today as bars are fairly cheap.
Choice of bar type often matter and use of laminated were solid would be smarter is something I see a lot. Same with the choice of expensive were a cheap would do the job just as well.
Closing rail help nothing if wear is in grooves bottom.
Some solid bars can be cut in groove, rail lowered and get like new, but most is not hardened deep enough today. Older bars is mostly hardened centimeters down, newer, millimeters..
Renovating bars is not worth the money today as bars are fairly cheap.
Choice of bar type often matter and use of laminated were solid would be smarter is something I see a lot. Same with the choice of expensive were a cheap would do the job just as well.
Kaveman
Treehouser
Would you elaborate please? Laminated vs Solid per application isn't a scenario I've encountered before
Magnus
TreeHouser
Sure.
Different bar types have different limitation and property's regardless of brand and models.
Its like choosing different types of loaders for a gravel pile move.
Big pile, big loader is most often a good rule we hear a lot but is that enough?.
Solid bars flex less and is great in some situations were you don't want flexibility.
Laminated bars are cheaper and if the work don't need more, why buy it?
Weight is a factor as well as durability and cost efficiency.
Looking around and testing a bit often show pretty cheap bars that are very cost efficient.
In this I mean runtime/cost ratio.
Putting a cheap bar on that eat chain/rims twice as fast eat up the profit.
Most users don't need the gold plated graphic designed extra plus bar from a known brand.
They need a good bar they can run the hell out of and not spend too much money on it.
When customers come here I know or find out what they need and choose a cost efficient bar for the job. I often get them to replace rim and rotate some chains (3-10)on it and it lasts a lot longer.
Always replace rim/sprocket when replacing bar reduce wear quite a bit.
Something we mechanics learned a long time ago in industrial machinery and MC.
Change sprockets AND chain to get more runtime.
In agri machines we figured it out 100 years ago...
I got a call from the company where I buy Alkylate fuel and bar oil today.
They were running a spring sale on lubrication, were I interested.
I expected something like " Buy 50 gallon and save 10 bucks.
Nope, they had almost cut half off the price.
So I ordered 2 drums, 100 gallon and saved a whopping $1400.
Not bad
They were running a spring sale on lubrication, were I interested.
I expected something like " Buy 50 gallon and save 10 bucks.
Nope, they had almost cut half off the price.
So I ordered 2 drums, 100 gallon and saved a whopping $1400.
Not bad
