Bar and chain oil additives.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Raj
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I think that I may need to turn my oiler down a bit with canola during really hot weather. I seemed to run short on oil on my Echo 2511t at the end of the tank when in the 90s. Not sure.
 
TSC went from relatively good to not so good .They carried that "house brand " county line I think then went to that high priced Husqvarna brand stuff .That stuff sold for more than Stihl branded stuff .I'm a mule headed old coot and I won't pay those prices .When I find it for a good price I stock up .As far as the mix oil unlike some I don't fall for all that hype of my oil is better than your oil plus I'm old school 32 to 1 .I haven't cooked one yet .
 
Bar oil is not just to lubricate. It needs to cool the bar/chain too.
I would say the primary job for it is to absorb heat and as it fly off, take the heat with it.
There is friction on all stuff that cut. Not just from spinning on the bar, but each cutter create heat to as well as friction off the sides.

Rapeseed oil is what I mostly use, my customers too. Easy on the saw, bars, cloths, don't stick even if it sit a couple years.
And probably better for us than any other oil. As we walk thru a mist of bar oil as we cut, that is a factor.
 
Magnus, when you say "rapeseed oil", do you mean canola, or the pre canola high acid industrial oil?
 
Not sure what Canola is... so looked it up.
Yes, Canola is what I mean.

Up with pump on max output and run as you stole it!
Too little of this and they will run hot just as with any other oil.
But with enough of it it will work just fine. Been running this a long time and all customers here too past 12 years.

Acidic or otherwise aggressive oils tent to corrode the magnesium/aluminium and make trouble with hoses. Especially parts not painted.
 
There is different brands and qualety of this rapeseed oil. I tried most of them and the cheaper they are the better it works.
Also tried the raw oil, not heated/clear. It worked but would get a bit sticky if it was run hot.
 
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