Analyze this stump...!!

I've made big wood wedges using my bandsaw, given them out as presents. Normally I use a hard elm, very resisting to splitting. Judging by the butt ends being rounded over in my friends' tool kits, they do get used.
 
Remember how they used to split boulders in a quarry with wooden pegs and wedges soaked in water???
I often wonder if I set some wedges in a tree and soaked them with water, could it actually push the tree (wedge it) over? Hmmmm.. OK so I have wayyyyy too much time on my hands whilst drinking beer...:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
 
With regard to trees, I think that you have sponge and wood mixed up there, son. It might work if the tree was teetering to go over anyway, but how would you know that a little sparrow didn't land somewhere above? :)
 
That sir Jay is my dilemma. I would have to keep the wedge wet and stay awake diligently with a close eye to observe the tree fall with no more help than the expanding wet wedgie :D
 
It seems like an experiment best done indoors. Perhaps one of the big arboretums will allow you to try? Just set a drip on the wedge with video cameras in place, and crash out someplace else.
 
Maybe the back yard and I can set up the drip with a drip system to a wedge in the tree with time lapse stationed on tripod to save space on the memory card.:/:
I got 12 acres of trees.. why not !:D
 
Time lapse won't be good enough, if you're hoping that you'll be in the running for the nobel prize for science/logging. Better put up some signs for the video too, "Institute for Wedge Research". Definitely drop Burnham's name when they come out to see the project.
 
Well I would also have to add Jerry to the study. And this could come in handy as the three of us could take shifts on the tripod and camera. Plus we could take this into the real woods and not need the auto drip system by thus employing more bodies into the actual study. However; You also should be included into the study Jay. You probably know more about the porous nature of certain wood to add to what wedge of wood would best suite the purpose of our study. Let alone the dynamics of more than one wood to try on the wood at hand to see if we may fell it though expansion.
OK we have seriously derailed this thread! SORRY!
And it did sound a bit risque talking about wood like that:lol::lol:
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #59
'Scuse me, I want a cut cuz you started your award winning research project discussion on my thread....:D
 
The picture at the start of the thread was originally called a "bullet cut" over here. It was only used to fall small diameter trees where the "quarter cut" would have your wedge against the uncut hinge before any effective lift. Its practical use is minimal but when required, effective.

It is not devised to lift over a heavy back leaner or large diameter trees. The incorrect application to larger trees has been created by some arborist training persons.

Some of the skinny poles requiring this method can be over 100' tall. The idea of the bullet cut is to "back up" your judgment for an easy fall not lift up a back leaner. If it looked like hard work I would get the dozer or excavator to come up and "scrub" the bush for me. In the urban work, I would put a rope on it.

It is limited by the thickness of the wedge entering the hinge zone. If that thickness exceeds the thickness of the saw cut, it no longer is lifting the back of the tree but rather the entire tree.

Graeme
 
Interesting Graeme. Wouldn't using a quarter cut method with a wedge placed sideways be more effective usually?
 
its one ov them someOdaTime cuts, someOdaTime it works and someOdaTime it dont
 
i do like the notch i just never saw one like that. looks to me like it was cut ninja style almost like check this cut out.after many looks at the stump i just dont think a jack was used. one thing im sure of the cutter has more cutting time than any amature and shure looks like he knew what he was doing. i still think this cut has no place in tree care and i would just put a rope in it and avoid all the extra b.s.
 
In this case, a wedge from the side in a quarter cut generaly won't travel as far as from the back. The additional problem created is that the wedge will "want" to correct itself to be aiming at the centre of the log.

By boring through from the back of the tree, the wedge can be placed and loaded before placing the scarf. In the hardwood trees much advantage can be lost when placing the scarf in some of the skinny poles.

Graeme
 
I don't know what videos this guy watched but end result looks the same.:?

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Burnham's signature comes to mind.

"Confidence is the feeling you sometimes have before you fully understand the situation."
 
My first thought was " is that stig? :lol: Then he started cutting up higher:dur: Ummmmm, definatly not stig:D
 
What on gods green earth would make you do that in the last vid. That had to take all day and still you'd have to block it up with that saw. That would have taken a mouth to make in to fire wood.
I would have rented a bigger saw & wore a different swatter.
 
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