.. Adjusting Hi / Low screws

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Mine is decent but the readout only updates every 2 seconds or so and the battery is not replaceable. When it eventually dies then I'll replace it with something using a replaceable battery and faster update time, preferably every half second or faster.
 
i don't remember exactly, but I believe the Tech-Tach has a fast update. I enjoy using it. $85. Lemme check if it shows on that page.
 
Well tachometers are a good tool but they don't tell the entire story .If for example you modify the saw in any way such as just a simple removal of the screen then the factory specs no longer apply in the true sense of the word .Then you factor in altitude temperature etc. You about gotta fine tune them by ear and feel .At least that's my take on the subject .
 
Skwerl said:
Mine is decent but the readout only updates every 2 seconds or so and the battery is not replaceable. When it eventually dies then I'll replace it with something using a replaceable battery and faster update time, preferably every half second or faster.
Click to expand...

I've got one like that as well, and I agree with what you are going to do, that's my plan as well! Nothing like holding a saw at WOT waiting for the damn tach to refresh! Not my favorite feeling at all.
 
9 out of 10 carbs don't have independant systems for low circuit and high end circuit.
If you set a carb do it right or it will not work as intended.

Always start with the basic setting and fine tune after.
That way you easier spot if there are issues.

I try to look at the carb factory's rek. first then the saws manufacturers rek.
It is not alway's the same and usually it runs better with carb mfg's settings.

The newer saws today is a pain to set by ear and even worse to set by rpm.

I set the saws after performance. It takes a bit longer time to do, but is much more accurate as it is never the same performance in two saws.
Not even if they are same model, with serial next to each other and run by same owner.
 
This is just some old postings of mine to share.

You want .5 sec refresh rate IMHO, then there is slower 1.5 and 2.5.

I like my older EDT-5 with .5 refresh like the DET-302 etc had and the Echo version of stihl EDT-5 is echo-1000 I think, the new stihl ones are to slow at 1.5 and big $$$.

If I had to buy new now days. Tony at Amick's. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI...chometer_Tach_p/dti tech-tach tt-20k tach.htm

If you need a fast refresh rate of .5 second. Look at the Stihl EDT-5 (also a echo version out there), DET-302, DET-303, TT-20K.

Then you drop to the 1.5 second refresh rate ones. Baileys and newer stihl ones.

and then the cheapie tachs at the 2.5 second refresh rate. $20-$25

So depends on what you want to spend. $20-$110.
 
I have been hesitant to try adjusting the 576 Husky I got a year and a half ago. I thought a tach would be the way to go. I understand the old non limiting coil carb adjustment. Got any pointers on the new tech adjustment?
 
Lots of good info here. I'd like to mention whether you adjust your own carb or not, pulling your plug and learning to read what you see is an easy way to monitor how your saw is running. Lean will show right away, white = saw death.



Also, adjusting and knowing how to adjust your carb is not saw mechaniching imo. It's basic maintenance, if you run a saw you should be able to do it.
 
The EPA is making it harder for John Q Public to adjust their carbs, manufactures are making the screws with different ends on them so you need a special tool to adjust the carbs. These tools are not for sale to the general public, and can carry a hefty fine if you get caught selling them. Seems like every year I have to buy a new tool just so I can adjust carbs in the shop.
 
Here are just a few tools you need to adjust a carb, needle adjustment tools. and limiter cap removers.
064.jpg

067.jpg
 
Oh you just have to be creative .Stihl is world famous for special tools for everything .They have not yet made an item to out smart Yankee ingenuity though ,try as they might . Fact is I delight in out smarting them .:D There isn't an adjustable carb in the world you can't defeat the anti adjustments on if you put your mind to it . The automotive industry tried it with little success and so shall the chainsaw manufactures find out .:lol:
 
Yeah Al your right but they are getting better at it, the two tools on the right of the pic are small D shaped tips, and very small I'm talking maybe 3/32" of an inch. These screws are recessed in the side of the carb, and not accessable without these tools, these so far I have only seen on the new Echo stuff.
 
--so in all this the question arises .Are these methods of attempting to deny access for the abilty to work on these products mandated by the EPA or in fact just some smart azzed company attempting to control the aftermarket .

While Echo is Japanese they might have taken a tip from Stihl which is German .Although the later makes a good product they inherently are typical of the mindset of most if not all German companies .I've literaly on many German made machine tools,hydraulic systems and what not over the years .The majority of them use OEM type components for the simple reason of planned obsolesents or to in fact have total control over sales of repair parts .

Most of the time it works to their advantage but if they pizz of some huge consumer as the case of the automotive industry they end up cutting their nose of to spite their face .Again ,yankee ingenuity wins out .Get them right in the wallet,that they understand .
 
These are EPA mandates, hell you can even get fined if you do not reinstall the damn limiter caps!
 
They might levee a tariff on a repair shop but they'll be hard pressed to catch or even do anything about a private owner .That is of course not to say the powers that be will not form the chainsaw police or some such governmental nonsense to protect ourselves from ourselves and squander the money in the public trust .

When cars had carbs towards the end they rivited shut the automatic choke setting so you couldn't adjust it .Once you drilled the rivets out it was the exact tap hole for a number 10-32 screw .Nice of them I thought .
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
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Today was a victory , mid size saw that I need now wasn't screaming or idling. Saw shop is thirty minutes away and currently loaded w repairs. Wasn't going to drive all that way and beg them to do it now. Went to YouTube and watched a video in English ... Was exactly same thing they tried to tell me at the shop a few times. Anyways I did it correctly myself and it screams and idles now.
 
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