Would you sell a 200t?

Many years ago when my 200 mufflers were rattlin off n breakin into pieces, I got ticked off enuff to call Stihl's US headquarters to find a solution cuz the conical lock washers fix wasn't workin.

He asked how big the wood I cut with the saw was? I told him big up to 26 inch usin a 14 inch bar.

Then he asked me if I let the saw idle between cuts? I said no I did not to conserve gas aloft.

He said that was my problem, and not letting it idle between cuts to cool down after a big cut was the reason the mufflers came loose from too much expansion n contraction between the steel bolts n washer and the aluminum muffler n barrel.

I remember quite a few old school dirtbikes that kept their mufflers on with springs, and it worked great!

Jomo
 
Just because you can doesn't mean you should. I knew someone who put a 36" bar on a stock 290 because he didn't have a big saw. Even though I made a 2511t run a 20" bar pretty well, I still tell people to run a 12-14" bar, because it is a small saw intended for small wood.

From someone else's testing; look how hot the ported Stihl 661 got in just 25 seconds
1636847706287.png
If let idle long enough, most saws will idle well under 200deg.
 
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A 14 inch bar on a 200's hardly extreme, and wood's wood regardless of species......

If the saw needs to be idled between cuts, the friggin owner's manual should say so up front.....

Jomo
 
Probably. I always let my saws idle a bit after a strenuous cut. I don't really know what's appropriate, but I try to let it go ~30 seconds before shutting it down. I don't bother if I'm just making quick cuts.
 
Don''t get me wrong on this issue of idling between cuts.

I've seen dozens of old school vids/ vhs's of climbers letting their saw's idle away hanging below them on a six foot leash. I laughed at them thinking they were fools......

Just another reason to go all electric when all's said n done n rattled apart......

I've always kept my saw's of any size on my right hip, unless it had to be released quickly in order to brace myself for a violent dynamic ride catchin big wood n brush .

Jomo
 
You don't want to pull any saw out of a big cut and just shut it off.
Needs to get rid of accumulated heat a bit first.

Particularly important when milling.
 
I've been trying to do this will all my engines.

By the time my chipper blades stop spinning, i figure it's had a few minutes to cool.
 
By the time my chipper blades stop spinning, i figure it's had a few minutes to cool.

My BB drum chipper instructions say avoid running the engine without the clutch engaged, fwiw.
 
Thanks, I'm curious why.

At start-up, doesn't it run without being engaged for a few minutes.

My clutch engages fine by "bumping it in", after warm-up.
 
At start-up, doesn't it run without being engaged for a few minutes.

We engage the clutch right away and then let it warm up at low idle.

I'll take a pic of the instruction label, maybe y'all can shed some light on it
 
We engage the clutch right away and then let it warm up at low idle.

I'll take a pic of the instruction label, maybe y'all can shed some light on it
Somebody told me once that letting a diesel idle without a load when cold would cause diesel fuel to flow past the rings and wash the oil off the cylinders. Need enough load to make the rings seat tight during warmup.
 
I've heard it has to do with the clutch bearing, but if cars and trucks can tolerate much time having the clutch pedal pressed, then why not a chipper? Then again, people don't let their trucks idle for long periods with the clutch disengaged.
 
On my chipper, the drum engages with a tending pulley on the belts. Once, I wrecked a couple of them by letting the engine on iddle with the drum stopped. I let the chipper iddling gently while I gathered the remains of my limb's piles. Then, as I was at it, I racked the small stuff to make the lawn nice immediately to make good impression on the HO. That extended the expected idle time by a good amount. When I woke up the chipper and engage the drum again, I saw chunks of rubber flying under the guard.
Actually, when the engine pulley runs against the belts staying still, even loose and at iddle, the friction heats up the rubber. Over 80°C, the rubber becomes soft and worthless. So when the belt are tensionned again and asked to transmite the force, the rubber just gives up in the heated area and is shredded to bits.

So now, I keep it engaged all the time, even to start. A bit harder on the electric starter but it works, even in the cold. When idling, the running belts (actually belt, not belts but that's an other story) continu to cool down themselves by the motion, even if the rotation implies some friction. I didn't got this issue again.
 
Yup. Mine has a Rockwood clutch, so it can idle no problem. Mine is also an ancient idi, so it doesn't mind idling either, the new ones with the emissions stuff don't do well because it clogs stuff up. I don't idle my new truck at all, fire it up and run it like you stole it. So it all depends on what kind of engine you got. Gas doesn't care either.
 
age old Q- anybody know how to stop pics from being sideways?
 
Not sure how I'd do it using forum software, but I'd preview the image in a post, and if it looks wrong, delete it, open the original in editing software, rotate it, then reupload.
 
All my posting is from my puter except for posting photos which is from my phone
 
Photo orientation from a phone seems a little ambiguous. You could rotate it using software on the phone if it doesn't turn out right.
 
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