would you climb and rig this?

[SkwerI]

Sure, I just usually use it on stuff that isn't climbable so I end up using a natural crotch. The whole idea is to get it suspended so there's no pressure on your saw making the cuts off the bottom of the trunk. The first 2-3 cuts are the critical ones because there is so much weight pressure.

 

[cory]

Skwerl's technique is aka gin poling.

 

[SkwerI]

Anybody care to reference Jerry's take on it? I don't happen to remember where in the book it is mentioned.

 

[Widow Shooter]

Sure, I just usually use it on stuff that isn't climbable so I end up using a natural crotch. The whole idea is to get it suspended so there's no pressure on your saw making the cuts off the bottom of the trunk. The first 2-3 cuts are the critical ones because there is so much weight pressure.

I can see how that would be...so you slash cut the first cut? or could you use a notch since the tree is leaning anyways? at least for the first cut. I use slash cutting all the time while thinning white pine and red pine plantation setting; since there is no room to fell them with a normal notch cut.

Slash, drop , slash drop until it has room to fall

 

[SkwerI]

Slash cut, a notch won't work because you have the top tied. I often use a 'jump' slash cut, utilizing an undercut and top cut with both cuts being almost vertical.

 

[Widow Shooter]

yeah suppose, and in this pic you can see the leaner's base is higher than the sound tree , may be ideal for a high slash cut then it will swing a bit into the good trunk I'm thinking

 

[SkwerI]

It will probably stretch the rope and bend the supporting tree until the butt hits the ground, it's not going to swing very far on the first cut. And it looks a whole lot bigger than I thought in your last picture.

 

[brendonv]

I was thinking, that's a hell of a tree to hang from the other. Especially looks like a Sugar Maple 20-24" DBH+, heavy heavy.

 

[Widow Shooter]

yeah, it is big, very big, might be too heavy to gin-pole eh? it is closer to 30" DBH

 

[SouthSoundTree]

Porty and block will double the force on the keeper tree.

Highline?

Guy from the two side 90* to the lean. Remove non-supporting weight from the leaner to see if it will come light and lift off the other tree, or be able to winch it up. Any clear area to pull it back over when it's cut up and the weight reduced?

 

[Marc-Antoine]

very interesting thread.

That's too much load for you gear and probably for the highest part of the adjacent tree.
What's the working load of your rigging gear ? around 2000lbs no ?
Even with almost no-shock loading, the the tree's weight is waaay over that.
If it's 300" dbh, you need only 7-8 feet from the trunk to get the max load!
So what for the whole tree ?

I 'd climb the standing tree, secure the top of the leaning tree in the standing one.
Then piece down all the crown as usual with a high rigging point, either in the standing or leaning tree. Then, guy tight the spar around 1/3, put the rigging point in the standing tree, and make free the top. Cut and lower as big chunk as you can for the gear, with butt tying to avoid big swings and damages on the standing tree.

 

[TreeRhino]

yeah, it is big, very big, might be too heavy to gin-pole eh? it is closer to 30" DBH

You could set your block in the upright maple and put your port a wrap on another tree behind it so the load would be pushing straight down on the tree with the block instead of torquing it over as you hang it. So instead of your rigging looking like a right traingle, it would look like an equilateral triangle. Just a thought. Still might be too much weight, though Ive hung some pretty big stems that way.

 

[Marc-Antoine]

If it's 300" dbh, you need only 7-8 feet from the trunk to get the max load!

oops! I wanted to say 30" dbh.

 

[Bodean]

Flip that $h!t backwards and be done with it.

 

[No_Bivy]

too much kokanee....get er done