Why shouldn't I buy this truck?
- Thread starter SkwerI
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Totally depends on what you are doing, pulling weight every day you run it, Probably. But you should do a cost analysis before you say diesel is the best.
SkwerI
Treehouser
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- #203
I paid $9K for the truck and have spent another $5K. A similar diesel truck would cost $25K and still need repairs (suspension, lights, hitch, dump bed, etc). If the gas truck gets 8mpg and the same size diesel gets 10mpg, how many years and miles do I drive before making up the $10K difference in price?
You do have to add the cost of fuel, oil. Like I said if you're running heavy everyday then yup diesel makes sense. If you do this once a week. Well.
Am not saying you are wrong for your situation. But I hear you need a diesel for situations where they make absolutely no financial sense.
Sorry miss typed. I dont know your situation.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
You would only come out ahead when you resold the truck as the diesel would not depreciate as fast as the gas. The truck would obviously have to be viable at that point.
I've been very impressed with newer gas trucks. A friend has a 2016 F250 gas 6 speed. 9/10 mpg no matter what you're doing. Hauls a 7 ton deckover safely. Never had a turbo go bad, injector go bad, egr/exhaust go bad, or blow both head gaskets at the same time.
biggun
Monkey for Hire
The 6-8mpg would scare the bejesus out of me.
That is terrible mpg.
That is terrible mpg.
It really does depend on the range of travel you do. Cost of the truck maintenance and otherwise. You do 90 percent of your work within 20 miles should not be difficult to work your cost into the bid.
SkwerI
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #211
Bumping this thread again. I have been ironing out small issues with the truck and it's really close to being a great work truck. I have an appt a week from Saturday to get my air conditioning hooked up and recharged, which will be nice. But today's issue was leaf springs. I replaced the main rear leaf springs a couple months ago but that left about a 3.5" gap above the overloader spring. With the truck heavily loaded there's barely any load on the overloaders, but the main springs are bent over badly. So I needed to beef up the overloaders.
I have an old set of springs that came off my 1997 F450 a few years ago when I replaced those springs. Width was the same, so I pulled a couple leafs out of those packs to use as my overloaders. I ordered new center bolts since the new arrangement is taller and the old center bolts were too short.
With the new setup I only have 2.5" until the overloaders hit and they are much beefier. Looking forward to getting a load in the truck and seeing how they work. First picture is the old setup, second picture is the new setup.
I have an old set of springs that came off my 1997 F450 a few years ago when I replaced those springs. Width was the same, so I pulled a couple leafs out of those packs to use as my overloaders. I ordered new center bolts since the new arrangement is taller and the old center bolts were too short.
With the new setup I only have 2.5" until the overloaders hit and they are much beefier. Looking forward to getting a load in the truck and seeing how they work. First picture is the old setup, second picture is the new setup.
Dave Shepard
Square peg, round world.
A friend is installing air ride in his Ford. Just saw it today. Not sure it is worth $4,500 ($5,700 with the compressor and auto level).
SkwerI
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #214
I finally got my truck to my mechanic to charge the AC and get it working last week. He said the system was full of metal shavings and I needed to replace the condenser in order to prevent contaminating the system again. So I did that and brought it back to him yesterday. They got the AC working again so I'm ready for summer. He said the clunking that I assumed was the dump bed shifting around was actually the cab. My body mounts are completely gone, as in dissolved away and no longer there. I ordered new polyurethane bushings which will be here later today, $120 on Amazon. He also told me the noise which I thought was my front brakes dragging was a bad wheel bearing. Ordered all new Timken bearings and seals, I will tackle that next weekend.
Energy Suspension bushings 44121 fit 1999-2007 regular and super cabs. Amazon link
Energy Suspension bushings 44121 fit 1999-2007 regular and super cabs. Amazon link
SeanKroll
Treehouser
Glad you're finding the real causes.
Diagnosis is sometimes the harder part.
Diagnosis is sometimes the harder part.
SkwerI
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #217
A new truck? I think so. My fuel economy has improved a lot since I changed the plugs. I'm sure if I had bought a truck in better shape for more money then I'd probably be even better off. I paid $9K for this one and have almost that much again in repairs. But I've gone too far to give up on it now so I will keep it for a while. I know what I got now and there's not much left to break.
treebilly
Student of the Jedi. OH-7106A
I think you did ok. You’ve replaced about everything on it that goes bad
SkwerI
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #220
I have determined that the entire engine has been replaced with a 2008-2010 engine. The oil pan does not have the hole for the oil temp sensor (which triggers the check engine light) and the plugs are for the later version as well. No telling the miles on it, but it has a knock at idle. I am hoping thicker oil and regular maintenance will keep it running for a long time.
SkwerI
Treehouser
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #221
Finally got around to addressing the bed doors. The latches are at the bottom and stick down into the floor. Unfortunately large logs pushing on the sides can lift the latches up out of the floor and the doors swing open (such as on a hard turn). There was a small gate latch but if you loaded the bed then you couldn't unlatch it. I had to cut it off to get the doors open one day.
My solution was to use an old boom latch from my old bucket truck. I had my welder add something for me to bolt it to and reinforced the catch. It has a long enough throw that I can easily get it open if the sides are loaded. It is also adjustable (threaded rod). Now I finally can stop worrying about having the doors fly open with a heavy load.
My solution was to use an old boom latch from my old bucket truck. I had my welder add something for me to bolt it to and reinforced the catch. It has a long enough throw that I can easily get it open if the sides are loaded. It is also adjustable (threaded rod). Now I finally can stop worrying about having the doors fly open with a heavy load.
