Whizzy

Ahem....back to the original topic. Y'know I've been using both the whizzy and the German at this site in the mountains. Excellent opportunity to try out methods with some fairly good sized trees on steep inclines, so you get the advantage to observe the fall longer than you would on flat ground, and the species are ones with very good holding wood qualities. I feel that I still need to perfect my technique, but what I have observed so far, is that the German gives a mild swing, but the whizzy can really alter the direction during the fall, and also rather sudden like when it goes into full effect. The German is like a baby whizzy, the same principle in effect, but lesser so. Interested to read Stig's comments on this, possibly that the German can do more than just a mild change to the trees favor. The whizzy does slow down the tree's fall, so if aiming for a clear spot between other trees, and the whizzy is too little or too much and you miss the spot, the tree is more likely to stay hung up than roll off from the momentum. Hanging in there and going deep with the back cut can help. Lots to learn in perfecting these methods.
 
With the German? No, I forgot he mentioned that. It should change the effect. Thanks, I'll have to find that post. Do you ever gut the hinge with the whizzy, Willie?
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #156
I still have yet to try the whizzy but I can see how it would eliminate opposing forces
 
wow...............seems like that would turn a tree complely 90 deg..........better move your house out of the way.........
 
thought......................can a german increase the chances of a barber chair, if the tree is a heavy leaner? since the german is a verticle cut, runs the same way as a tree would split up the center.
 
thought......................can a german increase the chances of a barber chair, if the tree is a heavy leaner? since the german is a verticle cut, runs the same way as a tree would split up the center.

I cut a few hazard trees that, as the face closed, they split from the stump down, taking half the stump along. Didn't barberchair.

I'd guess the german wouldn't increase barberchair, since the german is made on the stump and barberchairs happen in the log.
 
Thanks for posting that Stephen. The ream would speed up the trees fall a bit, and allow the effect of the step to go sooner, it would seem. Hope to try that today and also add a dutchman on the other side to try and get the tree turning quick. In the situation here, often with other trees in the way, getting the trees to quickly roll one way or another from the lean, can really help. My success rate has been poor hitting the spots, tailoring those things takes experience.
 
Yes, of course the german will increase the chance of a barber chair.
ANYTHING that makes the hinge stronger, be it thickness or flexibilytywise, will increase the chance of a barberchair. That is simple logic.

But why would anybody put a German into a heavy leaner?

Unless they were trying to swing it, of course,
In which case we are back to the same old thing.
Anything you try to do to make a falling tree go out of it's God destined course, you have to pay for, one way or the other.

Some of the new folks may not know me well enough to know what I mean by that.
In that case, ask, and I'll be glad to clarify.

And since logging season starts next monday:D:D:D:D:D:D be happy to post pictures, too!
 
Speaking of that Willie: Did you catch Hotsaw's (Jack's) new youtube vid? Talk about a scary tree...
 
<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZCG3Yij6vXI?version=3"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZCG3Yij6vXI?version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="390"></object>
 
Just got out of the woods from some haz tree felling. Used a whizzy to swing a 40" heavy RF away from the roadway. Worked great. One thing to keep in mind is to remember to shore up the backcut on the heavy lean side with a tight wedge or 2, and as you sweep around to the tension side, follow with wedging to help keep the tree convinced to the new direction. Also, the holding wood and wedging platform should be sound, otherwise you're asking for too much.

Video to follow.
 
here is a heavy leaning JP, which was swung away from its lean. the undercut is placed in the desired direction of fall. as you view the pictures the lean was heavy to the left of the frame. swung towards the undercut and the direction of the whizzy.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0004.jpg
    DSC_0004.jpg
    164.2 KB · Views: 50
here is a heavy leaning JP, which was swung away from its lean. and another pic of a larger RF, heavy leaner swung away from the lean. the undercut is placed in the desired direction of fall. as you view the pictures the lean was heavy to the left of the frame for both pics. swung towards the undercut and the direction of the whizzy.

I assume JP = Jeffrey Pine.

If so, how does it compare on the stump to Ponderosa? At first glance, they both look very similar.
 
jp...jeffry pine ................same family different elevation, though. the pondos seem to grow fatter, larger. from my experience, the wood structure seems about the same. maybe Burnham or Jerry can elaborate. Also, here is my first attempt at the stump with the whizzy:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT9z0-jnwgU
 
Back
Top