Jay, three perks of a humboldt that I can think of
1- you don't usually use a stump shot/ offset as an anti-stump jump, thereby saving the extra cut to square off the log,
2- the face is easier to break out/ have drop out on big trees. They will slide out with gravity.
When I am trying to get a bigger, double-cut face notch to drop out but am not getting it all aligned 100%, I will usually have very good, easy success by boring perpendicular to the hinge in the middle of the face, cut it up to the horizontal face kerf and down to the sloping kerf, then can pop in a wedge in the vertical cut, and a quick knock with the maul will often cause one half to slide out. Then I can knock out the other side with the maul, and clean up the notch.
3- you don't have to be able to reach so high with the Humboldt, which helps a lot if you are on a hill, especially a steeper hill.
I suspect others will be able to add other reasons.
People often will cut shallower humboldts than conventional face cuts, IME. I think that it is all down to how many degrees the properly cut notch is open, which is a part of why many trainers seem to prefer 70 to 90 degree open-face/ birdbeak facecuts, for extra control.