What Do You Carry While Climbing - Basic Gear?

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  • #77
I got a couple 5” plastic wedges I cut in half lengthwise. Very handy when chunking down fat spars. I always got at least 1 half wedge in my ditty bag.
I've been waiting on a wedge to wear out for use as a mini wedge while climbing. I have a small Stihl wedge I like a lot, but it's still a bit longer than I'd like. Obvious answer is to cut it, but I figure with enough time, the length will be right, and then I can make something out of nothing. One less piece of plastic, and $5 saved :^D
 
I've been waiting on a wedge to wear out for use as a mini wedge while climbing. I have a small Stihl wedge I like a lot, but it's still a bit longer than I'd like. Obvious answer is to cut it, but I figure with enough time, the length will be right, and then I can make something out of nothing. One less piece of plastic, and $5 saved :^D
Cut one up man! Not ideal for felling, but the halves are still useful for ALAPing stumps and whatnot.
 
I forgot, i have one of these on there too. Usually forget it's there in the tree as well lol.

 
I have a couple of those wedges. I usually leave them in the bucket. It's nice to be able to tie them off so they don't fall after every use.
 
My little hatchet and wedges only come up or go up when I know I will need them. I drilled holes into the back of the wedges. Made some tethers like a loop out of throw line for both the hatchet and wedges. Some shrink wrap keeps the tether stiff and they are less apt to wrap around each other and tangle. Each one on a biner. The teather on the hatchet I can pretty much clip into my D and beat a wedge.
 
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  • #83
I've thought about carrying my hatchet, but I've been undecided about how useful it would be. I've considered three tethered wedges, and do a straight cut through for chunking down a spar. Stick one in the back, as the cut progresses, one on each side, then finish the cut, and push the whole mess off. Thoughts? That might be over complicating things. I guess I should just try it, and see how it goes...
 
Really extra weight that I rarely use. Comes in handy if you just can't climb higher and get it to tip the right way. I would rather shoot a line in the top before going up and just have the boys pull it over when I get to a sweet spot. More single stem work though by that regard. Just a decent tool to have in the truck kit as needed. Axe swinging around full time on my belt does not excite me.
 
09, I got the DMM hook, what kinda line and line storage do you use for it?

Thanks
 
What do you use for a lanyard? For example, i run a really long double ended rope one for doing the spready parts, aka when i would carry it. For hardcore spar work I swap to a steel core. If you don't run a long double ended lanyard, you could use the tail, or have a longer one setup. The key for me is what's the fastest to deploy/store, because you won't use it if it takes effort and time.

Edit:
I'm drinking beer now, but I'll get some pics of my weird setup tomorrow.
 
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I've thought about carrying my hatchet, but I've been undecided about how useful it would be. I've considered three tethered wedges, and do a straight cut through for chunking down a spar. Stick one in the back, as the cut progresses, one on each side, then finish the cut, and push the whole mess off. Thoughts? That might be over complicating things. I guess I should just try it, and see how it goes...
Two wedges inserted after the cut is deep, just before it wants to sit down, then cutting out the far side will prevent binding, and the piece will tilt back on the wedges toward the heavy side, freeing your bar from being pinched at the end of the cut
. Two plastic sliders to start the round moving off the spar, ready to go.
Strings may help you retain your wedges.
 
Cory, I've ordered too much 10mm stable braid. Makes a fine lanyard especially for just transferring.

Oh wow! Is 10mm the chit for using a grapple? How much length do you figure? Do you put a friction hitch on it so you don't have to muscle it with your hands?
 
Cory, i would set it up as a mini climbing system. You want to be able to reach down, transfer it to your attachment swivel, clip the hook, and throw. I use a pinto pulley, and a carb for the other side, complete with spliced eye for the rope. I use a helical hitch, and make a small slip knot to clip with the carb inside the pinto. I like the pinto because i can clip the becket, and then it's self contained. I use it as a secondary lanyard (going over limbs when I'm way out on a limb walk), as a secondary climbing system if wanted, as a transferlizer redirect, or with the hook. I carry it on my side d ring, and use my lanyard on my front d rings next to my rope bridge, which is very nice for hanging from.

I shove the tails (the loop) from my lanyard and this second climbing system in a small ditty bag on my left saw holder clip. All my saw stuff is on the right, all my lanyard adjustments are on the left. My adjustable bridge is even on the left, and the tail from that is fed through a cheapo saw carb to get it out of my feet. The double end lanyard i run is probably a bit too long, but I've use all of it before. Maybe 40 to 60 foot, can't remember lol. On small trees, i won't even use a climb line because the double lanyard is enough.

The ditty bag.
20200704_171814.jpg

The climbing system type end.

20200704_171717.jpg

The lanyard type end, note the heavier snap for throwing around stem, and to clobber me when i pull it out :lol:

20200704_171801.jpg
 
I think I mighta gotten all that.

So you use a mini climbing system to do a bunch of different things, one of which is to use the hook with.

Heavy snaps rock for tossing, I use a non locker on the end of my half inch bull rope, it is da chit.

Fine looking gray climbing device hanging there....Show off!!!!!! :headbang:
 
Exactly. I'm sure we have the double ended long lanyard discussion here, i know i didn't come up with the idea. I just use the hook with it a bunch, and so i have to do less climbing/ work. If i can drift over rather than walk back to the trunk and then back out a different leader, that's winning to me. The prune i did the other week i covered 90 degrees of the tree, at the tips the whole time (cutting back off structures).
 
I just use the hook with it a bunch, and so i have to do less climbing/ work. If i can drift over rather than walk back to the trunk and then back out a different leader, that's winning to me.

I hear ya.

So how long you gonna stick with the 'I'm just a part timer rookie tree guy' thing, anyway??!!? ;) :drink:
 
Forever, cause that's all i am, and ever will be. If you saw me climb you would say the same, after you woke up from your nap of course :lol:
 
yeah ok, sir.

But more power to ya. The same mind that sucked up more or less all there is to know about welding and all things metal, when directed at the art and science of tree work? Look out. :drink:
 
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  • #98
I’d like to figure out a solid design to make my own spur mounted ascender for Bashlin aluminums and Buck Titanium. Preferably without drilling into the climber.
I was browsing treestuff and ran across this...


Might give you some ideas.
 
Yup, i tried ordering that and the right foot one today, they are out of stock for a couple weeks grrrrr
 
Oh wow! Is 10mm the chit for using a grapple? How much length do you figure? Do you put a friction hitch on it so you don't have to muscle it with your hands?

I think ive got 40' left. Make a detour for a beer next time you're headed up Maine and you can have it spliced!
 
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