Tulip Poplars, Felling and Rigging, Discuss.

inbredJed said:
Yeah, I'd never wanna rope stuff that big. First of all, to even pull it off, you're ground man has to be Albert Einstien. Second, It's hard on the lines. Third: you can usually get logs like that to flip out fairly flat, which only leaves some fairly acceptable dents. I find that--in absolutely any big removal--what with all the sawdust and everything else having to be raked-up; the whole dang place has to be virtually re-landscaped anyhow--that is, in the NorthWest, where our ground is about like a sponge for nine months, and absolutely hard as a rock for the other two. I know, I know... I left out a month--but only because: during that one, darn near anything is possible.
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I pretty much disagree with everything there. No Einstein needed. Lowering big wood is absolutely no different then small wood other then the consequences. Big wood=more wraps. Otherwise, you do nothing differently then a small log. There's no Einstein factor. Leave enough slack to get it moving away from the climber, let it run slightly and ease the brakes at the right time....... Same thing you do with a 100 pound log.

Hard on ropes? Ropes are a tool to make money. Not a possession with sentimental value. If I had the option of kicking $5000 worth of tree work in a day with a guy or two and no crane, but Id be missing a $200 rope, Ummmmm, kill the rope. This game is about money. Hour for hour, pound for pound, money. That's all this game is. I'd ruin any tool, on any day, if the value of the work could reimburse the tool, and also far exceed my typical net. He doesn't do that shit daily. His schedule is as full of stupid tasks as the rest of ours. But when he gets big dollar removals lined up, he has been at this game far long enough to know how to make money off big dollar work. Not milk it out because you can.....

Think on it bro. YOU might not do it. Just like I wouldn't do what Ive seen other climbers do. Not because they are wrong, but because I lack their skill set/experience/balls.
 
Tucker943 said:
I pretty much disagree with everything there. No Einstein needed. Lowering big wood is absolutely no different then small wood other then the consequences. Big wood=more wraps. Otherwise, you do nothing differently then a small log. There's no Einstein factor. Leave enough slack to get it moving away from the climber, let it run slightly and ease the brakes at the right time....... Same thing you do with a 100 pound log.

Hard on ropes? Ropes are a tool to make money. Not a possession with sentimental value. If I had the option of kicking $5000 worth of tree work in a day with a guy or two and no crane, but Id be missing a $200 rope, Ummmmm, kill the rope. This game is about money. Hour for hour, pound for pound, money. That's all this game is. I'd ruin any tool, on any day, if the value of the work could reimburse the tool, and also far exceed my typical net. He doesn't do that shit daily. His schedule is as full of stupid tasks as the rest of ours. But when he gets big dollar removals lined up, he has been at this game far long enough to know how to make money off big dollar work. Not milk it out because you can.....

Think on it bro. YOU might not do it. Just like I wouldn't do what Ive seen other climbers do. Not because they are wrong, but because I lack their skill set/experience/balls.
Click to expand...

Well put....
Same thing with using ropes for pulling.. Who cares if you've overloaded the rope's SWL... tree is on the ground and the $ is right.. anyone that wants to bitch and moan about using a skid steer to pull trees has a lot to learn about production. Often I know all other bids are going to be for rigging the crane. Love to flop them.

I have a spool of 600' true blue in the garage... saving it for just the right job when I need the confidence and stretch that a brand new rope offers.. double bowlines and new rope go well together...

Salesman put $3500 on two decent sized tree removals and a couple hours of pruning... He wanted the bucket truck to rig the trees, I used it to set the pull lines.. both trees on the ground in 30 minutes.
 
I have found that with tulip, the hinge is weak while splitting the fibers in the stump shot differential can be tenacious. SO when pulling by hand stump shot results in a tendency to over cut the hinge, (leaving a thin hinge) because the tree doesn't want to move due to resistance in splitting the fibers. Hope that makes sense.. its actually true in all trees, but the benefits of using stump shot outweigh the detriments in many cases.. the tulip in particular is susceptible to hinge failure from side weight or side lean, so a thicker hinge is more reliable. If you are pulling with equipment, you have a lot more options.. the extra pulling power can break the fibers in the stump shot, while still leaving plenty of hinge..

In most residential falling situations, the benefits of stump shot are not relevant. I try to keep it to 1" or less in most trees anyhow.
 
No reason to do things when they aran't necessary.
Omitting stump shots when falling in the woods is asked to get hurt, unless you are working a clear cut.
Most arbo setting are like a clear cut.
 
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