Tricky, uprooted, large doug fir... advice and thoughts

[SeanKroll]

I've got a large doug-fir in a wet area leaning hard and bent into another large doug-fir. It fell a few weeks ago. I looked at it last week. It's away from obstacles, along the driveway. Crane access would be possible, but $1200-1500 minimun seems avoidable for a no-obstacle, no clean-up situation.





They are both about 30" dbh.
The root plate is 35⁰-ish. The failed tree is strongly bent against the support tree. The root plate (roots broke next to the gravel driveway) is about 3-4' lifted in the high side. The failed tree is laid very squarely into the support tree. Big have large and strong branches, possibly laced together.

I can't see compression side roots to address if they are broken or springy.

There is a lot of bend in the failed tree in thick wood... easily 12" diameter, maybe a good bit more.

The limbs obscure the interaction between the trees.


I can climb up the support tree from the back side If I take time to get a good TIP that doesn't No evidence of domino-uprooting observed.

Its also possible to spur right up the failed tree.

Because of the sizes and amounts of branches, coupled with the lean, I don't expect the leaner to slide/ shear branches in a dependable way.




I can't tell if the failed tree is whittled off the support tree. If it will want to straighten and lift off the support tree, or continue to fall.

I was considering a sloping cut to the side to get it to slide off while the root- plate falls down and back.

 

[Kaveman]

Off the top of my head, I'd say drop the support tree 90° to the failed tree, let it carry both down. But I'm not there. Maybe a crane is the best option, safety wise if they want to keep the support tree.

 

[CurSedVoyce]

Guy the uprooted tree with tension. Whittle the two apart adjusting tension as needed. You seem to have a good tree to climb its hung in.
Once the uprooted tree is just a manageable stick, up right iif you have enough MA, then fell or just lop it off the stump.
Assuming you have a good anchor for guying.

 

[davidwyby]

Just an opinion from someone with not a lot of qualifications, but I’d pick the safest side of the support tree. Whichever side the failed tree is less likely to come down. Then cut both trees to go maybe 45° to the lean, kinda work with it. Maybe sizwheels or double hinges on tension side, at least tapered hinges. I would plunge/bore cut/trigger them.

Order of cutting, I’d have to see the trees, but probably get the support tree all cut up, then trigger with the failed tree and wedges or pull.

The pull could also be a safety guy while cutting.


If there are enough other trees, rope, pulleys, time, and room, you could set up a lot of mechanical advantage and pull the failed tree off the support with truck/winch. Or at least hold it up for safety.

Seems like just treat it like a limb tied pair, dump them together.

 

[Mick!]

Just an opinion from someone with not a lot of qualifications, but I’d pick the safest side of the support tree. Whichever side the failed tree is less likely to come down. Then cut both trees to go maybe 45° to the lean, kinda work with it. Maybe sizwheels or double hinges on tension side, at least tapered hinges. I would plunge/bore cut/trigger them.

Order of cutting, I’d have to see the trees, but probably get the support tree all cut up, then trigger with the failed tree and wedges or pull.

The pull could also be a safety guy while cutting.


If there are enough other trees, rope, pulleys, time, and room, you could set up a lot of mechanical advantage and pull the failed tree off the support with truck/winch. Or at least hold it up for safety.

Seems like just treat it like a limb tied pair, dump them together.

I’m guessing he wants to retain the support tree.

In these situations I climb the support tree, get nice and high, then nick off bits from the failed tree, very VERY carefully, keeping an eye for changes in the way it’s sitting.
Eventually you either get to the central holding point, or it starts to sit up a bit.

That’s when you have decisions to make.

 

[SeanKroll]

They will piece to keep the support tree. I'm hoping to stay on the ground, folding it.

Once I start at the ground and cut it off the stump, I may have lost the access to reasonably set a line.

I may put a throw-line in before anything.


This is one of those trees that I might get down in 10 minutes or half a day!

I'm thinking that the tree/ root plate may shift down and back while on a small strand of wood fiber, before I can get it cut through and sliding, which could be ok.

 

[treesmith]

Worst case, call Daniel Murphy and get his opinion…🤣

 

[CurSedVoyce]

If you are going to start your cutting at the base, at least climb up and set a rigging line from a block in the support tree to the hung tree so you can hang the tree as you cut. Safer and lowering option.

 

[flushcut]

I might be inclined to say pull it off of the support tree if possible with the roots still attached. Get it vertical, notch and finish the pull over. Probably some guy lines involved. Or crane is always fun.

 

[flushcut]

Having read it better. Notch it and pull it 90° off if the support tree.

 

[SeanKroll]

Thanks for the input.


These are big and likely somewhat locked together.

The trunk is definitely bent.

Way too big to lower.

It's looking hard pressed to pull up because it fell dynamically.

I don't think that this one is risking more than pushing over the support tree in the next wet season. This is just barely uphill of the riparian area.


They have more pressing issues, as in dead/ dying near occupied areas.




Thinking it through more, I should climb and inspect up close.

As with trees on houses, my general M.O. is to remove anything that isn't supporting the tree or needed as the process progresses.

I can charge for the ascent and inspection.


More info before trying to make plan A, B, C.