MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
LOL.
sotc
Dormant hero!!
I said oh sure, just forgot my ear plugs. I unhooked my lanyard, got a pair, and went back up the tree, this time with a wrap in the lanyard
Paul B
I dig hammocks.
hahaha, another option would be to look the client in the eye and let them know you were just testing your emergency descent system.
Nothing to see here, carry on!
Nothing to see here, carry on!
F
Frans
Guest
You saying you actually sh-t your pants? for real? Never heard of that happening before.
Never mind, I truly don't want to know
R
RIVERRAT
Guest
Oh I have. Not while in a tree though.
Even did a thread on it....Went over like a sack of kittens tossed off a bridge by an evil murdering type fella.
Even did a thread on it....Went over like a sack of kittens tossed off a bridge by an evil murdering type fella.
wiley_p
Climbing Up
Climb in the rain, on a mossy, leaning, spar in December Butch, I'm betting you'd make use of the technique.
R
RIVERRAT
Guest
It took me a while to realize what I called a wrap was in reality just crossing my safety. My adjustment is on my left I throw my snap around the right side of tree & clip in on my right as usual. My safety crosses in front of me forming an x between me & the tree.
Not a full wrap. Dont use it much either. Accept like Wiley brings up.
wiley_p
Climbing Up
Speaking of which. Know how to kill a pet rock?
wiley_p
Climbing Up
Put it in a sack of kittens and throw it in the river.
R
RIVERRAT
Guest
sotc
Dormant hero!!
i use a round turn on occasion, if your climbing a small diam tree you can hold it slack and slide it up the trunk nearly as fast as normal. i do like this idea jeff, might have to try it out
W
Wagnaw
Guest
I'm not a big fan of hanging from above on a spar while cutting, especially if it's leaning. Here's how I do it. Generally, I'll replace the running bowline with a steel biner though, which makes it way faster. It keeps my weight on the spikes nicely, and it really helps if the spar is leaning. You can kind of see how I am pushing against my spikes and leaning out into the lean of the tree in the second pic. Though, a benefit of the running bowline and the biner left on there is that you can pu the tail of your line in the biner, and then you can use that to pull the running bowline down to you.
Attachments
MasterBlaster
Administrator Emeritus
But why? 
W
Wagnaw
Guest
I'm just putting it out there. Generally, I walk down and rechoke it when I'm making the cut. I've been saved from some gaff-outs during rigging too many times by my climbing line being choked to not keep doing it. I used to work with people who never lowered wood on a regular basis, and for leaning trees, it's really nice to have that choked line on the high side of the tree for something to lean against.
The retrievable thing is mostly for people who want to have their line choked to lessen the severity of a fall, but they don't want to tie, and retie the running bowline. I usually just use a steel biner, which is fine by me and saves time. Then I don't worry about the retreival. I just clip it choked, make the cuts, unclip, walk down with my landyard, and reclip choked again to cut.
The retrievable thing is mostly for people who want to have their line choked to lessen the severity of a fall, but they don't want to tie, and retie the running bowline. I usually just use a steel biner, which is fine by me and saves time. Then I don't worry about the retreival. I just clip it choked, make the cuts, unclip, walk down with my landyard, and reclip choked again to cut.
D
Drella
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #65
Wagnaw, who took the photos? Nicely done..
What I notice about that rig is- it doesn't look removable with a simple flick of the wrist.. I'm trying to think of ways to use the false line, but make it easily retractable once finished utilizing it...
BTW; Are those Columbia khakis you're climbing in???
What I notice about that rig is- it doesn't look removable with a simple flick of the wrist.. I'm trying to think of ways to use the false line, but make it easily retractable once finished utilizing it...
BTW; Are those Columbia khakis you're climbing in???
B
Bounce
Guest
I think that rig is easily retractable. In the 3rd pic his right hand is pulling it down to be reset at a lower level for the next cut.
J
Jman
Guest
Third picture in. Explain the deal with the munter hitch above your your VT. Or thats what it looks like. There also seems to be something else in there too. Any time I forget to bring my grigri or figure 8 my VT gets too hard to come down on single line and I have to massage it a bit after a 15-20' decent.
T
top hopper
Guest
I use a peanut butter and jelly sandwich to block down a spar.
It works quite well.
It works quite well.
T
top hopper
Guest
and if that dont work, just add a little mayonaisse to lube it up!!
D
Drella
Guest
- Thread Starter Thread Starter
- #70
I just noticed that too.
_______________________________________________________________
Yeah Sean, photo #3 does show it being retrievable with the quickness. But with the bowline tied in #1, I was sort of scratching my head with that one..
sotc
Dormant hero!!
takes a large part of the load off your friction hitch so it wont bind as described
F
Frans
Guest
When I was first being schooled in how to climb, I was told that in order to consider myself a climber I MUST be comfortable working on any side of the tree. leaning tree or straight tree, makes no difference.
This is very true. Tricks and energy saving techniques should be used for what they are; not as replacements for lack of abilities and training.
Dave
M
Mr. Sir
Guest
Here's a trick I just learned today. I can't believe I hadn't figured this out in 25+ years in the tree biz, or maybe I did and I just forgot.
When cutting a large stump, plunge the bar into the center and then a little beyond. Then make a big circle around the stump, keeping the tip near the center, but cutting backwards, so to speak, using the TOP of the bar. This pushes all of the chips into the kerf, keeing the stump from sitting down on the bar as you finish the cut. When you're done, the bar will just slide right out and those chips will act like ball bearings so the stump can be pushed off easily. Simple, huh?
When cutting a large stump, plunge the bar into the center and then a little beyond. Then make a big circle around the stump, keeping the tip near the center, but cutting backwards, so to speak, using the TOP of the bar. This pushes all of the chips into the kerf, keeing the stump from sitting down on the bar as you finish the cut. When you're done, the bar will just slide right out and those chips will act like ball bearings so the stump can be pushed off easily. Simple, huh?
SkwerI
Treehouser
It works good on softwoods like pine. Not so good on hardwoods. Seems to jam up if you have to cut a good ways with the top of the bar.
I usually just bang a wedge in the kerf as close as I can get to the top of the bar after I've cut 90% of the stump. Then when I finish the cut, the stump rocks up away from the saw.
I usually just bang a wedge in the kerf as close as I can get to the top of the bar after I've cut 90% of the stump. Then when I finish the cut, the stump rocks up away from the saw.
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