Tricks of the Trade.

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Here ya go. Just make DAMN SURE you keep at least at least a 4" or more spread between the rings.
 

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  • #27
Beautiful! Thanks Rat!

Where do I get those cool rings?
 
There's nothing wrong with the first pic. (cept the upside down biner) I use it when I'm blocking or taking big wood, a 12 foot decent to your next cut is much easier this way and it would be useful cutting a face in a BIG spar. It may loosen a bit but would not fall entirely unless the spar is completely smooth, besides you always have your flip line to catch you.

In short, it works..
 
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  • #31
There's nothing wrong with the first pic. (cept the upside down biner).

You guys are killing me on that.. I know the biner is upside down!:whine:

Hey Squirrel,, thanks at least for not busting my chops on the line rigging and the fact that they don't go anywhere...:D


So what other things have you all picked up over the years? Don't think that it's too mundane to mention, there may be some of us here who don't know what you have to share...
 
Idunno, forgotten most of it. Just visualize all your moves ahead of time and visualize all of the possible outcomes. Then decide which action to take that will result in the desired outcome without breaking something.
 
I do what Darin does - cut a notch in the top of the spar to set my line in and just use my regular climbing system. I can then shake it off before falling the piece. But that's only when I might have to stand around for awhile waiting for the groundies to get the last piece out of the way. Otherwise I just walk down on my spurs.

I have used this method also. I really wouldn't recommend it. It actually has been the cause of a lot of injuries (and I think, deaths).

Also, for those of you who use any of the aforementioned methods for securing a highline for cutting a notch on a spar, there is a down side and so should not be used on a regular basis. When you are working with a large saw, cutting a kerf on a spar with a highline your saw will be ivery close to your highline. Can you see where I'm going with this? Also if anything were to happen to your highline, your spurs will not be properly set; almost guaranteeing an uncomfortable occurrence.

So use it wisely.

Dave
 
I have used this method also. I really wouldn't recommend it. It actually has been the cause of a lot of injuries (and I think, deaths).


I bet those guys didn't keep their lanyard on the spar, also. I'll do that if my tie in is at all questionable.
 
Consider the source when you read this next :)...old school PNW logger style.

I almost never set up a climbing line at all when blocking down a spar, or throwing a top. I just use two lanyards and down-climb as I go.

On the rare occasions when I do, I set up like RRat's pic with the adjustable friction saver.
 
Burnham, nothing wrong with a technique that works well. For working a spar I just generally use 2 lanyards and no highline also. I prefer to have my highline coiled and hung at my side. This way it can be setup and deployed quickly and keeps it from being buried under several thousand pounds of logs and brush.

Butch, your right those accidents did not have a flip line around the trunk. They are usually the lunch break or end of day accidents when the climber is tired and the climber just wants to get out of the tree with little fuss.

Dave
 
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  • #39
Also, for those of you who use any of the aforementioned methods for securing a highline for cutting a notch on a spar, there is a down side and so should not be used on a regular basis.

Guilty! And after having slippage and a full pair of underwear with this technique, I decided to go about it with just my lanyard and LL tied below my safety. But after seeing RRats' method, I've fallen in love again! Of course I would love to use lumberjacks "rope guide," but really, I don't have that kind of scratch...


When you are working with a large saw, cutting a kerf on a spar with a highline your saw will be ivery close to your highline. Can you see where I'm going with this? Also if anything were to happen to your highline, your spurs will not be properly set; almost guaranteeing an uncomfortable occurrence.

So use it wisely

Dave


Exactly.
 
Any time I or another climber has done it (that I've seen) the highline makes it easier to go around the trunk, but we're still splitting our weight between the highline and our feet. If the rope got cut, we'd still be left standing there.
 
I have used this method also. I really wouldn't recommend it. It actually has been the cause of a lot of injuries (and I think, deaths).

I read something in the Treeworker mag a while back saying the same thing. It appeared that these injuries/deaths were happening because folks didn't have their flipline still on the trunk. Also, in at least 1 case the notch cut in the top of the spar was way too shallow allowing the rope to roll out of it. I admit there is some truth to what you say, but I think the risk can be mostly eliminated if you keep your flipline on and cut a deep notch.

Regarding the issue of cheesegrating down the trunk if you cut your lifeline, I think that is more embarrasing than life threatening. I've always been able to stop my slide after just a few feet by getting a gaff in and leaning back against the flipline. Besides, this is a risk you'd be taking any time you are just on spurs and flipline, which we all regard as an ok thing to do.
 
Haha "cheesegrating" :lol:

I cheezed down a pecker pole pine about 35' a few years back, and I can relate to the metaphor.

Lucky for me, it was the first of 6 trees I had to climb that morning.
 
I don't know what it is that I do differently than, for example, Carl...but my experience is similar to Bounce's. I never have slid more than a few feet if I gaffed out both feet simultaneously. Closing the lanyard down with both hands, jamming a knee in or catching a gaff, leaning back...some combination has always arrested a slide for me.

I expect on a turned pole it would be easy as heck to firepole it down, but on a tree I just haven't had that experience at all.

Thank goodness :D.
 
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For rapping off spars I use an adjustable ring-ring friction saver. The ticket for getting it to come off without getting stuck is to use a small round ring on the end of the rope instead of a ball or a knot. Slips right through even when the rings are choked up tight on the spar.
 
For rapping off spars I use an adjustable ring-ring friction saver. The ticket for getting it to come off without getting stuck is to use a small round ring on the end of the rope instead of a ball or a knot. Slips right through even when the rings are choked up tight on the spar.
Do you attach the small ring with a smaller line or string? I have just been using the end of my throw bag line.
 
I splice a loop of zing-it onto the ring and either girth hitch it to my eye splice or prussic it onto an unspliced end.
 
I don't know what it is that I do differently than, for example, Carl...but my experience is similar to Bounce's. I never have slid more than a few feet if I gaffed out both feet simultaneously. Closing the lanyard down with both hands, jamming a knee in or catching a gaff, leaning back...some combination has always arrested a slid for me.

I expect on a turned pole it would be easy as heck to firepole it down, but on a tree I just haven't had that experience at all.

Thank goodness :D.

The tree was about 50' tall and maybe 12" in diameter at ground level. 35' up, I'm guessing closer to 5", and I hadn't past any limbs so the trunk was fairly smooth.

After I slid down, the homeowner asked if I was ok, obviously quite concerned. I said oh sure, just forgot my ear plugs. I unhooked my lanyard, got a pair, and went back up the tree, this time with a wrap in the lanyard :)
 
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