Trees you refused to climb and why.

[HolmenTree]

Good work Willard, this whole guy line thing is interesting, someone should do some kind of instruction video.
Ps still cold there in late March? I saw on sky news it will be -13 in Winnipeg today.

Still freezing cold here La becasse, long range forecast for melting temps that will amount to anything not until 2nd week of April.

Never seen a hole so low before. Dumb woodpecker!

Butch, the poor wood peckers are starving at the moment , by now there should be no snow on the ground and insects are abundant. The red headed pilated wood pecker has amazing hearing and with it being this cold every thing is still frozen solid above snow level. The only area where the carpenter ants are active in the tree is in the insulated wood below the snow. As my pics show this guy is one strong wood pecker.

Speaking of it still being cold, I've got three big dead maples lined up for this weekend which are being removed for firewood. . . people are running out fast.

Tough to spike, but two of them need to be climbed. One might get dropped.

Have a good weekend guys!

~Sam

Yeah spiking hardwood when it's frozen is a chore alright, have a good weekend too Grendal.

 

[RegC]

I removed two 75 ft tall white spruce for a customers today that were leaning over his cabin, not safe to climb due to a pesky wood pecker hollowing out the bases of them.
So I had to fell them with the aid of a guy line.

Nice work Willard.... and all the more that you set the lines without climbing even

Do you set the redirect at the same height as the undercut ?

Do you tie direct to the receiver hitch or do you use a porty or friction device in-between? I generally use a manned lowering device so we can let it give a little if theres a chance the tree is going to surge forward when it lands, depending. That and and open the face a little wider than norm.

Poor peckars!

 

[HolmenTree]

Nice work Willard.... and all the more that you set the lines without climbing even

Do you set the redirect at the same height as the undercut ?

Do you tie direct to the receiver hitch or do you use a porty or friction device in-between? I generally use a manned lowering device so we can let it give a little if theres a chance the tree is going to surge forward when it lands, depending. That and and open the face a little wider than norm.
Poor peckars!

Thanks Reg,
I'm not sure what your question is about setting the redirect the same height as the undercut.

I used the porty when using the Masdaam rope puller. But now for anchoring a redirect block pulley for a guy line this is now what I use as the 1st pic shows, no chance of breaking this come a long without the porty unless your in Redwoods.
My second method is tensioning the line with my pickup in 4X4 low range in reverse.
Last pic is the receiver hitch ring on my pickup. Dodge got it right with these rings, perfect for a tying a 3/4" bull rope to or for a spliced eye.

 

[HolmenTree]

Reg, I just edited my last post about you question "if I set my guyline redirect lower then my undercut." The answer I originally gave was "lower to help improve hinge wood strength with more downward pressure on the stump."
But as I said that while fumbling the little keys on my Android I didn't give a very clear explanation. What I meant to say was "lower redirect closer to the tree to be cut, the sharper rope angle increases downward pressure on the tree enabling a stronger hinge with less chance of the stem popping of the stump from sideways pressure."
Only a 6 ton come a long or a truck could put enough tension on the guy rope to make this work.

I should have clarified with you about your question.

 

[RegC]

Its all good mate We are on the same page. I just though it a really important point that someone looking at the pic might overlook and not factor in....I just wanted you to explain that part. Sorry, not meaning to tread on your toes or anything

 

[RegC]

Setting the redi higher than the undercut could be hard on the rigging as the tree tips further, if its locked off without a porty....is what I'm trying to say. Fumbling my words too, probably not being clear, late and trying to get out if the house.

 

[RegC]

And obviously I'm talking increased tension in the last leg of line as the tree falls further. Gotta leave now.

 

[Grendel]

With these guy lines are you guys compensating for the direction of the lean with your Hinge? IE leaving it a little thinner on the target side?

 

[HolmenTree]

With these guy lienes are you guys compensating for the direction of the lean with your Hinge? IE leaving it a little thinner on the target side?

Grendel,
With a properly tensioned guy line with no stretch (Amsteel is recommended) no compensation in the gunsight to lay is needed.
no matter the feet in sidelean the tree will end up landing in position that is 90 degrees from the anchor point of the guy line.

With a guy line with stretch or not tensioned tight enough the rule is to gunsight your facecut hinge equal the distance of side lean past your targeted lay.
With no guy line your gunsight would aim one and a half times the distance of the sidelean from the desired lay target.In other wards with 6 feet of sidelean the gunsight would be aimed 9 feet past the desired lay target.

 

[Jomo]

Speaking just my opinion here of course.

But I think it depends on tree species?

What works on a conifer will eff yu on a euc..

All the pro loggers I watched kept their hinges uniform regardless of lean. But I can get a small excurrent conifer to fall over real slow and stop at horizontal to be delimbed off the ground by asymmetric hinge thicknesses more triangular than not. Only works with dinksters though!

Jomo

 

[HolmenTree]

Whether its conifer or a broad canopy hardwood the key is to get the main stem or center of codominent stems to target of lay.

When I hand felled logged for years 8 hrs a day 5 days a week I could lay a tree to target without pausing to think it through. Just came natural as your always looking up before starting the face cut while keeping the felled timber laying straight along the face.
Just second nature to compensate the gunsight.
Never used the saws gunsight marks either

 

[stig]

I don't either, Willard.
After a few years of full time logging you just get into the flow of it and the trees go where you want them to.

 

[HolmenTree]

I called it momentum Stig, the saw's b/c is your 3rd hand and I always have a "feel" what position it is to aim the direction of the face cut. Repetitive motion makes perfect results. Works the best in conifers growing in thick stands with very few limbs and only a bushy top.

But now walk up to one single tree to fell on any given day and the momentum is not there, a lot of 2nd guessing and care in using the saw's gunsights.