Tree Job From Hell

[cory]

Definetly a hairy, tricky job.

 

[stig]

Also, I'm wondering what all of the veteran timber fallers thought about the way that last big cut was performed. After all of the care that was demonstrated prior to this, by taking small pieces in a really patient, deliberate manner, I was surprised to see them trying to cut such a huge piece all at once. I guess I feared that the big piece might take a slight roll as it was coming off. It seemed like the guy making the final cut was in harm's way if something went amiss.

That's just my lack of education in this area talking.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Tim

It was a good way to cut it for the situation, since the last fibers that broke held it in place.

I would never do it that way on valuable timber, since you rip a chunk out of the log.

Also, if possible, I prefer to stand on the other side of the log for that last cut.
Puts you a bit more out of the line of getting squashed if it rolls or jumps towards you.

 

[rskybiz]

Good point on the chimney...probably should have reinforced it sooner. L's is a good idea, too...you're just full of it...er...them.

I'm a excellent armchair quarterback

 

[Tim_B.]

I've hinged logs down like that, no biggie. I'd want to put stuff in the LZ to make slicing and dicing the log easier, though,

Thanks for taking the time, Butch. Nice idea about putting stuff in the LZ. I assume you're talking about the kind of thing where guys will lay down short pieces of log in order to make a set of "rollers", almost like the way conveyor belts are set up? That way you can leave the log in one place without the need to roll it over to cut the bottom, correct? Thanks again for your input.

Tim

 

[MasterBlaster]

Anything to raise the log off the ground.

 

[Tim_B.]

Oh, they could sharpen their saws better, too. Hearing a dull saw work just irks me to no end.

Thanks for this comment, Mr. Beranek. I'm going to have to watch this video again soon and try to listen for it. Being a fairly new guy to all of this, the sound of a dull saw did not jump out at me, I must confess, as it obviously did for the senior members participating in this thread. Any hints as to the sound or sounds I should be listening for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for your time and attention.

Tim

 

[Tim_B.]

Also, I'm wondering what all of the veteran timber fallers thought about the way that last big cut was performed. After all of the care that was demonstrated prior to this, by taking small pieces in a really patient, deliberate manner, I was surprised to see them trying to cut such a huge piece all at once. I guess I feared that the big piece might take a slight roll as it was coming off. It seemed like the guy making the final cut was in harm's way if something went amiss.

That's just my lack of education in this area talking.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Tim

It was a good way to cut it for the situation, since the last fibers that broke held it in place.

I would never do it that way on valuable timber, since you rip a chunk out of the log.

Also, if possible, I prefer to stand on the other side of the log for that last cut.
Puts you a bit more out of the line of getting squashed if it rolls or jumps towards you.

Thanks for this response, Stig. I appreciate you taking the time.

Tim

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

that last cut, a back cut without having a face cut, will bring the log down more slowly then a hinge. It doesn't have the control. The strap of holding wood can also help suspend the butt.

I call those logs placed on the ground to suspend the spread, "bunk logs" for some reason. I picked up the term from a older guy. Maybe logging lingo.

If there is room enough, with a grapple machine, you can move larger piles of brush into and out of the landing zone, as needed for a crash pad. Then, pick up the piles and move to the chipper or to a grapple truck. If you need to buck a big log, its well away from hitting the dirt/ gravel/asphalt when felled, which can embed in the bark, or much worse, a big log creating is own crater.

 

[Altissimus]

Sound of a dull saw , screaming away without results also operator cursing. When a sharp saw engages wood the revs drop.

 

[MasterBlaster]

that last cut, a back cut without having a face cut, will bring the log down more slowly then a hinge.

What? It's using a hinge.

The hinge is what slows it down.

 

[Grendel]

I thought he just let it split at the end. Kind of a weird finish. . .

 

[SouthSoundTree-]

I thought it was a suicide back cut, which when used appropriately is a misnomer like European Death Knot.

In any case, if just cutting tension wood, cut the sides like shallow coos bay side cuts, put in a sloping back cut, slightly "upward" if it wants to slab you have a better chance to avoid binding, and continue to cut past the effective hinge point.

A thick hinge sometimes works fine to slow it down, but less likely to hold resistance once moving, it seems to me.

 

[Tim_B.]

Sound of a dull saw , screaming away without results also operator cursing. When a sharp saw engages wood the revs drop.

Thanks for this, Altissimus! Great description. Just what I was looking for. Much appreciated.

Tim

 

[Tim_B.]

that last cut, a back cut without having a face cut, will bring the log down more slowly then a hinge. It doesn't have the control. The strap of holding wood can also help suspend the butt.

I call those logs placed on the ground to suspend the spread, "bunk logs" for some reason. I picked up the term from a older guy. Maybe logging lingo.

If there is room enough, with a grapple machine, you can move larger piles of brush into and out of the landing zone, as needed for a crash pad. Then, pick up the piles and move to the chipper or to a grapple truck. If you need to buck a big log, its well away from hitting the dirt/ gravel/asphalt when felled, which can embed in the bark, or much worse, a big log creating is own crater.

I thought it was a suicide back cut, which when used appropriately is a misnomer like European Death Knot.

In any case, if just cutting tension wood, cut the sides like shallow coos bay side cuts, put in a sloping back cut, slightly "upward" if it wants to slab you have a better chance to avoid binding, and continue to cut past the effective hinge point.

A thick hinge sometimes works fine to slow it down, but less likely to hold resistance once moving, it seems to me.

Thanks for these two great posts, Sean. It is much appreciated. So much to learn.

Tim