Tree hardware removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bodean
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 113
  • Views Views 14K
I'd bring a couple punches and a good hammer for banging the rivet out.

I'd want a cheater-bar type device for leverage.
 
Metal cutting skill saw blades rock. I don't think I'd want the removal with that metal in the ground
 
We use a battery powered angle grinder with 1mm thick cutting wheels. Of course wired electricity is ideal but we need versatility.

Keep a hand file handy. The angle grinder likes to leave people-slicing edges. 10 seconds with a hand file will usually round the edges enough that you can feel good with what you leave behind.


love
nick

You have a grinder why do you need a file? Even with a cutoff disc you can lightly grind off sharp burrs.
 
Yeah, a no generator approach seems easier.

With today's cordless tools, it's the way to go imo. San Fran right? Probably don't have to trip up but a single pedestrian in order to have more than paid for a quality cordless setup.
 
I'd aim for corded, consistent, strong power. Beware the trip hazard and mitigate. Try to hang the cord above the sidewalk up into the tree, and back down. Nothing that pedestrians can screw up for you, or have to continuously guard against. Figure how long of a cord you need and buy a thick one if you have to go a ways down the street. Other businesses or apartments maybe having electric available? They are the most direct beneficiaries of the work, due to proximity.

Cordless is great where you have no electricity.
 
Have you run any of the newer like 20v cordless stuff? I've been using the dewalt for ages now. I will never use my corded skill-saw ever again even if power was around. The power is fantastic and cords are a PITA even if they have no risk of tripping anyone at all.
 
Seems like in that scenario by the time you secured access to power and laid out your strung in the air cord. The first two tree would be done cordlessly. Also six street trees, that's either a lot of cord, or a lot of repositioning, or both. Also what if the surrounding business or businesses just say 'no'. If you have a generator, great, but obviously buying one that will run a grinder or skill saw is going to be a bit of an expense.
 
I haven't used the 20V but the 18V grinders eat the batteries quick.

Honestly there is no comparison between the 18v and 20v in the dewalt. I had the 18v forever and bought the 20v li/ion when it first came out. Battery time is much longer and one of the big differences is you get full power until it dies.
 
That's interesting that its full power until it dies.


Looks like a lot of grinding time. What is charging time like?
 
That I honestly don't know as I have so many batteries available. Lol. I will add that I have never done any extensive grinding like this but I've run my circular saw for what seems like ever off a single battery but that was just cutting wood with it.
 
You need the hand file because trying to do finesse shaping next to the tree means that you WILL damage the tree. Yes it's faster, but if you're there to help the tree, why do it in a way that creates MORE damage?

We use Milwaukee M28 models 28v tools. We have drills, sawzall, and grinders on the truck all using the same batteries.

The 28v tools are noticeably more awesome than standard 18v tools.


love
nick
 
if you use a electric cord just duct tape it to side walk to keep peeps from tripping up on it....I agree, a cord would be better for a lot of grinding, bat would be fine for small work
 
I did a similar job last year. Ten trees staked with T-bars and heavy cable. Corded angle grinder, full face shield and various pry tools. I'm with Squish; most of my tools are being converted to cordless, and multiple lithium batteries with the longer run times. I like the plywood fence idea. Maybe held together with door hinges so they'd self-stand.
 
The tree has already swallowed the two concrete slabs imprisoning it. Bring a cut off set up on an angle grinder, but. I would first jack the two crete slabs and take a look at how hard the roots would be to cut back and then grind. I bet the steel will slide right out of the ground with some MA on a pry bar or a loader. Hack roots at edges. Take metal laden trunk to the land fill. JMO. But I have a Dingo.
 
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #48
What's the smallest generator I'd need to run an angle grinder to cut those bars in the original pictures?

I can't believe how long it took them to get back to me.....but I got the job.


What kind of disc for the angle grinder? I guess just a steel cutting disc.....
 
Good news on getting the job, I like working for muni's but it takes months to get the check, waiting on a big one right now myself. If you care to share, what are you charging for that? I don't even have a ballpark guess.
 
Back
Top