The Singing Tree Rope Wrench

Advancing my tie-in-point in SRT is my biggest hurdle before I can work efficiently in that method. Simply continuing to climb and hoping that if I fall, I fall on the opposite side of a branch from my line doesn't do it for me. In the conifers that I mostly work in, I don't usually have any single branches that are strong enough to be the sole TIP. I always have to drape the line all the way around the trunk in order to be secure. I just can't figure out how to get this level of security without having to pull up one entire end of my line from the ground. Anybody got any suggestions for me?
 
But then you couldn't retrieve this from the ground. Or am I missing something?
 
Remove them as you work your way back down to your tie in point. You're in the top of a conifer, it's not like they will be out of reach. Or pull the end of your rope up once, when you get to your highest TIP.
 
Sean will you be in Pittsburgh for the Expo? I have a couple different things that i do, depending on the situation. Its hard to explain them online. Lengthy and if am not clear its difficult to ask questions. I probably use 4 different techniques depending on what where and work necessary.
 
So I am old and somewhat stuck in my ways. I do tree work for money at this point not for fun which I can tell Kevin still derives enjoyment from his work. I envy him, I enjoy getting home is about the extent of it:|: Anyways I just watched his video online for the F8 revolver setup. The system is very clean and he really does move around a tree fluidly. One question that sprung to my mind was when Im working I often decide to move my TIP from one lead to another to facilitate ease of movement in that section of tree, so I just unclip my spliced eye, pull the rope out of its crotch and then set it in new TIP. How do you do that with SRT without having to go back to each crotch??? I see merits to this system but am not 100% sold yet...
 
Wow thats hard for me to explane. I have been hitting my backspace botton for a while. Did you look at the rope wrench vid? He redirects a few times in it. You may not like the music, or the new set up, but the way the SRT system works is the same. I would like to think that I am in the same boat as Kevin as far as the love of climbing, but not in the way he thinks up his set-up. Also I hope the day is far for me to just look at what I do for a living is "just a job" is far away.
There is nothing wrong with being set in your ways IMO. If it works for you why fix it. If you want to try other stuff then IMO this is worth trying.
 
yes! thats where the spurs and dubbled rope do come into play.
 
sotc said:
Get to the new crotch and drop the tail through
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So if I recrotch 5 times my rope ends up zig zagging from crotch to crotch. Must be hard to pull out at the end of the climb.Plus with Ddrt I can throw my rope up and over a crotch without phisicaly climbing over it, guess you could do that with srt if you take your prussic off and throw the tail...... Just not feeling it..
 
I've not hit five forks before. Maybee three in a large tree that I was cleaning out. It's not that hard to pull out. I have trown my rope above me and retide in my prussic in a center fork before. I'm not trying to talk you into changing your climbing style, but this works easier for me.
 
dandandatreeman said:
sotc....I feel like an idiot LOL......Thank you.:LOL:
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Why?

PCTREE said:
So if I recrotch 5 times my rope ends up zig zagging from crotch to crotch. Must be hard to pull out at the end of the climb.Plus with Ddrt I can throw my rope up and over a crotch without phisicaly climbing over it, guess you could do that with srt if you take your prussic off and throw the tail...... Just not feeling it..
Click to expand...

If you had to drop through 5 crotches your rope would likely be too short so you would call for another. Man, you got the SRT machine so you just hit the ground and elevator back up ya lazy bum!
 
Regarding climbing above the original redirection point on SRT...

Suppose you're climbing a Doug-fir. If your rope is a bit woven between branches initially, you have multiple TIPs/ Redirection Points, since there is no need to isolate the TIP.

When you get to the top RP, and want to go higher, just choose your path so that you continue adding to the existing string of redundant TIPs/ RPs. If it is difficult to maintain the integrity of the TIP due to where you need to climb, you could just lanyard in, and unclip the SRT system, and pull it a full revolution around the limb, though this will potentially add a lot of friction for when its time to pull the rope.


I had to get some widow makers from some tall firs the other day. Shot a line to about 60' to the first branch. When I got there, I lanyarded-in around the trunk, over a large branch for fall protection, and got on top of the branch. While maintaining the SRT, I used my tail as a DdRT system, with my lanyard, to move up to 80' (there were no sizable enough branches to use to redirect the SRT between 60' and 80', mostly dead stubs. At 80' I climbed over another large branch, returning my weight to my SRT system, anchored at the ground still. Being done with the deadwooding in tree 1, I lowered down to swing into the next tree from the tree 1, keeping my system anchored in the tree 1, but redirected in tree 2. I was able to lower down and deadwood tree 2 as much as was needed.


If this isn't coming through clear, I can get a better picture. It hard to write out.
 
No_Bivy said:
yard a 180' foot rope through.....or a few feet? SRT must scuk for removals.
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You don't need to put all of the rope length into the system. The extra which is not in the active part of the system is part of the emergency lowering system. Say you have a 200' rope, and need to redirect at 60'. By the time you are running your rope from the ground to your 60' point and back down, you've effectively got 120' in the system, and a 60' tail when you are at your 60' highpoint. If you are injured and need to get lowered from 60', you have your remaining 80' stacked at the base, below your anchor (POW, trunk wrap, GriGri, etc).




I used it on a big spreading maple just fine yesterday.

I use a running bowline with a GriGri on conifers all the time. Could use the Fate systems, but I imagine it would be better with the RW/ hitch combo.
 
Lots of the pines I do require walk-outs to remove limbs...this req's climbing above the limb, setting the line and then walking out to piece the limb. I find the set up time to do this way faster with DdRT. All it takes is to 'trow' (had to dan...reminds me of a buddy from Nova Scotia) the working end over a limb. With SRT, one has to either tie and retie RB or carry a sling for setting around a tie in and clipping the working end into, both of which take longer to do. That said, if I had a shitpile of large spreading deciduous trees to work, or could line up a few buddies I'd love to give the RW a try.
 
Sotc; you made such a simple reply that made sense to me. I was trying to figure out how to explain.....
 
Dan and all o yaals thanks for your patience. Since enough of you seem to think this system has advantages I think I might give it a try however truth be told we do 95% removals and it seems folks feel its not as helpful for them. 5 years ago I was still using a weaver sliding D and a taughtline hitch, an I love my sequai and hitchclimber system now....


How about 2 hitches connected by a simple handle??? Half the load on each, tricky to set up Im sure and I assume Kevin has already tried this and moved on, he doesnt post here does he???
 
TreeDimensional said:
Over at TB they were sayin' $50.00. For a stick with a hole in it! One of the members here is hot after one!:roll:
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thats whats nice about this tool. it really is a stick with a hole in it and so you can make your own. If you want me to make you one, you will have to pay me for my time. As of now, they are all custom sticks with holes in them


I think SRT for removals if far preferable than DRT. I attach at the top of a tree with a running bowline. I only need a rope that is as tall as the tree is. I think SRT for removals especially when on the spar simplifies things a lot, no need for adjustable cambium savers etc. Just a running bowline. SRT eliminates a lot of gear all the way around.

lots of advantages to SRT some disadvantages too. Being able to utilize both is good. I rarewly use drt anymore though because I find SRT allows me broader access to the canopy and the tips of branches. DRT frustrates me quickly because of the friction.
 
Just to clarify Paul, I have never worked off an SRT system, only entered the tree or belayed out. It just looks very functional and makes sense to me. I think the 2 hitch idea wouldn't work too well as the upper hitch would have weight below it and wouldn't be able to "bend" the rope which is where the friction is created
 
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